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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 08-25-2005, 03:34 PM
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Andrew Garrett Andrew Garrett is offline
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FC etch finish

Alright. I'm having a bit of a procedural problem.

I did my first FC etch for a finish. I like the look. However, it darkened up fast after a good rinse. I did a search and found that Windex will nuetralize the FC. Cool. But, what about other additional finishing steps? Steel wool, Flitz, etc.?

Even more pressing, how do you finish the handle without screwing up the etch on the backbone of the tang? Does the handle have to be finished before it is ever epoxied on? How do I clean up the goo that always sneaks out between the slab and the tang? I tried Vasoline. Man was that disaster! Epoxy and petroleum jelly should never even be in the same room together!

I guess I need a step by step tutorial. Up until this blade, I just mirror finished my work. It sure made finishing the handle easy!

Another question. Why can't I just finish the knife to a good 600 grit or better, attach the handle and finish it, then etch the whole darn thing? The FC doesn't react with wood. I already tested it with Buckeye burl. There's no reason to suspect it will react with epoxy. This way I can etch the pins too.

Help!

Andy


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Old 08-25-2005, 04:06 PM
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OK. I found an old buried tutorial on this subject and at least I know that my blade continued to darked because I did not nutralize it.

This is actually a good thing! I work around a bunch of cops and they like dark subdued blades! After the cold blue misery, and not wanting to embrace the GunKote method at this point in my fledgling career, I think this is an good option for tactical blades!

Andy


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Old 08-26-2005, 10:30 AM
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You could mask the wood with nail polish and then clean it off with acetone after the etch. I'm glad you decided you like the dark look, I'm a fan of a dark ferric etch myself.


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Old 08-26-2005, 10:38 AM
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On etching the whole thing there are a few things to remember.

FC will stain things a dingy orange yellow. I wouldnt want it to soak into a handle even if it looked good. As for the pins, as long as they are steel ok, but if copper or brass you will contaminate the etch with copper and brass. Next time you etch, you will get a coating of it on your work. Some like the look, but be ready for it.

I have had good luck using fingernail polish to mask off what I did not want to etch, then put the knife in my etch tank.

Also be aware that the FC will eat brass and softer metals at a quicker rate than steel, and can put some UGLY pitting in it.

And lastly, ALWAYS neutriliuze the FC you will have a nasty rusted blade within days if you dont!!!

Just some food for thought

God Bless
Mike


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Old 08-26-2005, 01:19 PM
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Thanks guys!

I wound up dipping the whole works (steel pins and stabilized handle), The pins were SS and I decided to buff them back up to a shine after the etch since they just look better that way on this one.

The wood did not stain--I assume because it was stabilized well. But, thanks for that handy tip!

I used lots of Windex to nuetralize. It did still darken a bit. I oiled it right after a rinse.

The knife can be seen in the display case under "number 4"

Thanks!

Andy


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Old 08-26-2005, 01:45 PM
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... Amonia works to neutralize the etch instantly. Dale Baxter showed me that trick, hope that is useful, also, if you use pearl for the handle, you don't have to do anything to protect the pearl because the etchant will not effect it. Love the work, remember: hit it while it's HOT!!!
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