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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Brain storm!
IDEA!!!!
Anyone ever seen or heard of a blade finish using dribbled or splattered cold blue (the ol' Jackson Pollock approach)? Maybe use a spray bottle for a more even and predictable effect? I thought it might look interesting on a tactical blade with a satin or etched finish. Thoughts? I mean, any other use of cold blue on a blade is pretty disappointing. Learned that the hard way! Andy |
#2
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Just my 2 cents worth. I've thought about this before too. Personally I think a "dribbled" or sprayed cold blue is a little superficial in that it quickly gets removed through use. If you like the effect its fine, but it might need to be re-applied.
A variation that I find quite dramatic is if you apply drips and blobs of paint or even permanent marking pen ink on a blade then etch the blade in ferric chloride or other acid like HCl or Sulphuric acid, it produces a deeper etched pattern that won't rub off in the same way. Also, gotta consider that cold blueing won't work on stainless steels (as far as I know anyway) but the acid etch will work on both carbon and stainless steels. Jason. __________________ JASON CUTTER BLADEART Jason Cutter @ Dr Kwong Yeang Knifemaker, Australia (Matthew 10.16) |
#3
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NIIIICE!
Have you tried this method? Got pics? Andy |
#4
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Here's the clearest picture i could find of one I did. A bit old now, it was done by drawing lines with a permanent marker on the steel and etching it it ferric chloride for 5 minutes, then cleaning it all up. The effect is 3D and will last a LONG time. For even more dramatic effect and more 3D appearance, you can draw another set of lines and re-etch it a second time, maybe even a 3rd time. It will produce a set of 3D lines and steps all over the blade. Very easy, very quick. I called it a "Tigerstripe Camo-Etch." Hope it makes sense. Jason.
http://www.fototime.com/B6DF2C9C4C5A0B1/orig.jpg __________________ JASON CUTTER BLADEART Jason Cutter @ Dr Kwong Yeang Knifemaker, Australia (Matthew 10.16) |
#5
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I like to call it Raymaskus because Ray Richards was kind enough to share the process with us.
__________________ "Many are chosen, but few are Pict" "The doer alone, learneth" NT Neo-Devo Last edited by hammerdownnow; 08-10-2005 at 03:48 AM. Reason: enlarge photo |
#6
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Awesome! This is just what a couple of future projects will need!
Questions: 1) Does the etch go through the marker lines slower or not at all? Would I have to clean off the marker lines and re-etch for the complete effect? 2) what else works for an easy clean-up ground? 3) Does the FC have to be heated for this? Andy |
#7
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1. It eats the marker slower, a more resistant resist for longer etches is fingernail polish.
2. wash off solution with warm water and soap. Clean resist off with acetone or fingernail polish remover (same thing, with pleasant scent) rub with a 3m pad or 00 steel wool. 3. No, room temp. is fine. A safer, easier to to get tonight, etching solution is vinagar. The soak time is longer, 8-24 hrs. clean up the same. See the etched hamon (hardening line) in above pic. __________________ "Many are chosen, but few are Pict" "The doer alone, learneth" NT Neo-Devo |
#8
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Quick question....
Where does one get ferric chloride?
__________________ -Aaron ______________________________________ "It's a shame that Stupidity isn't painful" |
#9
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I get mine from Graphic Chemical and Ink (708) 832-6004. You can also find them on the web.
Andy |
#10
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Another sourse for FC is Radio Shack. Here is a shot of some etch play. It is both sides of the same knife made from a piece of bandsaw blade. The red is the off side before etching and I drew on it with an oil based paint pen. The other side was etched, masked, re etched , masked, etched till I ruined it. Just experementing to see what happens.
__________________ "Many are chosen, but few are Pict" "The doer alone, learneth" NT Neo-Devo |
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