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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 08-08-2005, 08:10 PM
ErnieB ErnieB is offline
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Middletown, MD
Posts: 96
Yet another Grizzly Question!!

Hello Everyone,
I just finished putting my new Grizzly G1015 together this afternoon and I have ended up with a couple of questions & observances I couldn't find out about in the Owner's Manual. First, as was recommended by most everybody I talked to, I fitted it with the 10" wheel. When I went to install the first belt, I found that I had to lower the upper sanding arm to point that I had to completely remove the lower hand knob in order to get the arm to go down far enough to get the 72" belt on... Is this normal? Also, I spent the larger part of 2 hours trying to get the doggone wheels aligned so the belt would stay on. After re-reading the manual about a half-dozen times and doing everything it said to do regarding lining things up, I finally gave up with the belt riding OK on the bottom wheel but still riding approx. 1/4" off the top wheel towards the outside. Finally, can someone give me a better description than the manual on how tight the belt should be and how to test the tension? Thanks in advance for you help.

Ernie B.
Maryland
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  #2  
Old 08-09-2005, 03:38 AM
gb6491 gb6491 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Tustin, California
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Hi Ernie,
Here are some thoughts that might help you:

Quote:
Originally Posted by ErnieB
... First, as was recommended by most everybody I talked to, I fitted it with the 10" wheel. When I went to install the first belt, I found that I had to lower the upper sanding arm to point that I had to completely remove the lower hand knob in order to get the arm to go down far enough to get the 72" belt on... Is this normal?...
Yes, just make sure you can tighten it enough that the arm doesn't twist (it's never caused any problems on mine).

Quote:
Originally Posted by ErnieB
...I finally gave up with the belt riding OK on the bottom wheel but still riding approx. 1/4" off the top wheel towards the outside.. ..
You can adjust that if you want (by moving the idler/tracking wheel axle), however it will vary from belt to belt and as you adjust the tracking to move your belt on the contact wheel or platen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ErnieB
...Finally, can someone give me a better description than the manual on how tight the belt should be and how to test the tension?..
I like mine set as tight as I can get it. I can barely get the belt on when the spring on the tracking assy. is fully compressed.


Speaking of tracking, here are several things that I looked at:

1. Some belts just won't track well, see if your problem is related to just several belts or all of them.

2. Add a few turns of electrical tape (or something of similar width) to the crown of the idler/tracking wheel.

3. Make sure the faces of the idler/tracking wheel and contact wheel are parallel. There is a small set screw on the tracking assy. (you can see it in the photo just above the hose clamp) that will allow some adjustment.

4. Check to see if the contact wheel surface is flat. If not, there are several ways to correct this; with having it done on a lathe probably being the safest, but it can be done on the machine with a file. BE CAREFUL!.

5. If you have to chase the belt while flat grinding, try adjusting the platen out a little further to put more pressure on the belt.

6. Add a brace as TJ Smith shows in a photo below. I use one on my machine.

7. Try a stronger tension spring, again see TJ's photos. I also use one on my machine

My machine tracks well, however I still run across a belt now and then that just refuses to track.



TJ Smith posted this in an earlier thread: "Put a neo or pryo ceramic platen on it. I used double sided tape.
I have a couple things add a brace from the motor to the upright arm to firm it up. Add a spring and turnbuckle to the back to increase belt tension."



I added a brace to mine also (this is something Allen Blade suggested in his video):


Take a look here for some more Grizzly info: http://groups.msn.com/GrizzlyG1015

Hope this helps some.

Regards,
Greg

http://gbrannon.bizhat.com/

Last edited by gb6491; 08-09-2005 at 04:03 AM.
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  #3  
Old 08-09-2005, 08:38 AM
Ray Rogers's Avatar
Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
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Yes, it's normal to have to remove that one knob to get a 10" wheel on the Griz.

Use the extra adjustments Greg mentions in the last post AND high quality belts to get the belts to track better. That plus dressing the wheel with a file is all I had to do to get satisfactory tracking from the Griz.

If you do use a glass platen DO NOT secure it using only double sided tape. Use the Search button for 'pyroceram' to find my extensive previous posts on this very dangerous subject....


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  #4  
Old 08-09-2005, 10:11 AM
ErnieB ErnieB is offline
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Thanks for all the help guys. I'm going to give it another try today, now that that I'm all rested up. I can certainly see where the ideas re: the braces, etc, would really beef the Grizz up.

Thanks again,
Ernie B.
from Maryland
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