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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 07-28-2005, 06:02 PM
Robert Dark's Avatar
Robert Dark Robert Dark is offline
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Bolster Pin Trick

This is probably nothing new to you guys, but I thought I would share it anyway.

One problem with piening pins on bolsters is to make sure that each hammer blow is "dead" square in order not to "bend" your pins in one direction or the other. This can be hard to do unless you have tons of practice with hammer control.

Some have tried to just "squeeze" the pins with their vise. This puts excess pressure on the vise jaws and the vice tightening mechanism (especially if you have a rather small vise).

I learned this trick some 35 years ago when I had to replace universal joints in "big" trucks. We would "hammer-squeeze" the trunions onto the u-joint with the help of a vise and a hammer.

1. Place your blade in the vise and position it so that you are only hammer squeezing one pin at a time (you will need to alternate between pins)

2. Use a brass hammer or maybe even a dead-blow hammer using "moderate" blows to the outside of the vise (it helps save the vise) (see photo)

3. Use "moderate" tightening pressure on your vise handle (you will actually feel the handle moving with each hammer blow)

4. Once you are satisfied that your pins are straight and tight, then you can remove your blade from the vise and finish off as usual with your regular piening methods.

When you try it, you will probably notice, just like using the regular hammer method, that your bolsters want to separate from the blade a little. You can use this same "hammer squeezing" method with a pair of pliers to tighten everything back up........... Just "squeeze" and "tap" your pliers. It cuts down on scratches too.

Hope this helps someone......... It works for me..... Robert

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Old 07-28-2005, 07:54 PM
T-Wolf T-Wolf is offline
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good post,Robert,thanks.


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  #3  
Old 07-29-2005, 07:24 AM
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SVanderkolff SVanderkolff is offline
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Robert
Good sugestion, a question though. I was taught that the pins should be no more than the width of the pin long. In other words if you are using 1/8" pins you should have approx. 1/8" excess before piening on each side. This seems to help with the fold over problem as well. I have also started using 3/32 pins which seems to work even better than the 1/8 pin.

Steve


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Old 07-29-2005, 07:45 AM
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Robert Dark Robert Dark is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVanderkolff
Robert
Good sugestion, a question though. I was taught that the pins should be no more than the width of the pin long. In other words if you are using 1/8" pins you should have approx. 1/8" excess before piening on each side. This seems to help with the fold over problem as well. I have also started using 3/32 pins which seems to work even better than the 1/8 pin.

Steve
You are right Steve.......... 1/8 pin = 1/8 extended on each side. I don't see as well as I once did, therefore my "fine adjustment" of hammer control is not where it needs to be.

I just make the pins a little longer and use the "hammer-squeeze" method with the vise to get me started in the right direction. Then, I finish on the anvil.

Robert
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Old 07-29-2005, 08:45 AM
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Don Cowles Don Cowles is offline
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Here's a little trick I came up with a few years ago to solve the bent pin problem.

I drilled several holes at varying depths to accomodate the diameter of pins I use in a block of cold rolled steel. By layiing the knife/bolster/pin assembly on the block with one end of the pin dropping into a hole, I can hammer on the other end without the pin shiftin in the bore (getting too long on the other side). I get the pins well seated with this jig, and then move the assembly to a flat anvil surface to hit it harder. Works for me.



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Old 07-29-2005, 09:59 AM
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SKIVIE SKIVIE is offline
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Great info guys, Thanks for sharing.

Shane


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