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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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choice of steel and triple quenching?
I have been using 1094 steel for my knives.....stock removal method, and I do the heat treating myself (oxy acet torch to heat treat/oil quench, then tempered in the kitchen oven)......
What other steels could I use that I could heat treat and temper so easily ? .....do these other steels perform better or should I stick with 1094? 2nd question......Is there any benefit to double or triple quenching for stock removal?..what are the benefits?.. if so, how soon after the first quench should I repeat the quench?...am I supposed to temper between quenches? Thanks in advance. Trail Angel. |
#2
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YOU CAN USE 1095,1084,5160 AND 01.ALL ARE OIL QUENCHABLE.
NOW I'M NOT SURE ABOUT TRIPLE QUENCH,BUT TRIPLE TEMPER SHOULD BE DONE BETWEEN 350 TO450 DEGREES FOR ONE HOUR EACH.LET BLADE COOL TO ROOM TEMP EACH TEMP CYCLE. TRY ED CAFFERY'S FORUM OR THE OUTPOST FOR MORE INFO. GOODLUCK __________________ Friends may come and go but enemies accumulate. :cool: NT screaming gamecock Gann |
#3
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Gannmade...thanks for the reply....I have used 1084 once before.
Are there any benefits to using 5160 or O1 over 1095? For instance, does O1/5160 hold a better edge .............is it more resistant to corrosion than 1095? Thanks. |
#4
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THE 5160 IS TOUGHER AND MORE DURABLE THAN 1095.
01 MAKES A GREAT BLADE AS WELL. 5160:.60 CARBON .80 MANGANESE .80 CHORMIUM 1095:.95 C .40MN 01:.90 C 1.60MN .50CR .50W .WHICH IS TUNGSTEN. THE TRIPLE TEMPER IS TO SOFTEN NEWLY FORMED MARTENSITE AND TRANSFORM RETAINED AUSTENITE. __________________ Friends may come and go but enemies accumulate. :cool: NT screaming gamecock Gann |
#5
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Thanks Gannmade
I think I will try some 5160 as a change against 1094. |
#6
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I now have some 01 in stock.......just to confirm, are you saying I heat treat exactly the same as I have 1095?...ie heat to non magnetic, oil quench and temper at around 375 F(until straw color)?.
Thanks. Kevin. |
#7
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THATS THE RANGE THAT HAS WORKED FOR ME .TEMPER 3X.
LET IT COOL BETWEEN CYCLES. E-MAIL ME SOMETIME. __________________ Friends may come and go but enemies accumulate. :cool: NT screaming gamecock Gann |
#8
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T A
I don't know is 5160 would be a good choice for stock removal method. Because of the lower carbon content, I believe that best results are obtained by forging. Forging allows the grain structure to be refined to the point that this lower carbon steel produces a very tough blade capable of holding an edge. I only forge and therefore don't know exactly how 5160 will preform in stock removal, but I would highly recommend you bring this up on Ed Caffey's fourm. Brian |
#9
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Brian, I take what you said about 5160.....I decided to go for 01.
Gannmade, thanks for your input, I will work it as 1095...hope to get started this weekend. |
#10
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WHAT BRAIN BROUGHT UP ON 5160 IS SOMETHING YOU MIGHT
ASK ED.BUT THE 01 IS A GOOD CHIOCE KINDA BEGINER PROOF. __________________ Friends may come and go but enemies accumulate. :cool: NT screaming gamecock Gann |
#11
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5160 will work fine for a stock removel knife. Reduction in grain size is mainly a product of the hea treatment of the blade. The triple quench is most beneficial on steels that have chromium content, like 5160 and 52100. A heat treatment consisting of triple normalizing (allowing the blade to cool completely to room temp. between heats)-triple quenching (letting the blade sit in the quenching oil for 12 to 24 hours between quenches)-followed by a triple temper.
The triple quenching has proved to be unneeded on the 10xx series steels, but the do respond well to multiple normalizing heats (grain reduction) and multiple tempering cycles. __________________ Guy Thomas/Thomas Knives |
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blade, forge, forging, knife, knives |
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