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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 11-15-2016, 01:42 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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convex grind

Hey guys! so I am attempting to do a small Japanese authentic looking wakisashi the blade will be about 8 in long,,,,its being temepered again as the first round the hammon didn't come out that good. so as long as it looks good this time I am going to start grinding. I want to try and do a convex grind I have only tried this grind once before and it was VERY early on and didn't come out that even...so I can see of 2 ways of doing this I could do basicly a series of flat grinds from the edge up to the spine and then blend it togather and finish on a slack belt. or instead of the series of flat grinds I could kinda rock the blade back and forth to create the curve...I am leaning toward the first option but as I said I only tried this once and it was a long time agao so figured I would see if any one has any advice on this
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Old 11-15-2016, 03:17 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Those methods are pretty much how anyone would do it, take your pick. I know you want a convex grind because it's "traditional" but that doesn't always...in fact, hardly ever ...mean 'best'. Traditionally that shape was used because the edge was less likely to fail due to the relatively low quality of the steel back in those days. Our steel is far better so you can use a flat grind or a sabre grind and get a blade that cuts better and still has a strong edge. Just sayin'...no harm in convex if you really want it as long as you know why you want it ...


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Old 11-15-2016, 03:52 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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yeh your 100% right the traditional part of it is exactly why I want to try it....and I think because of the geometry of a convex grind as long as I don't junk it up to bad If it don't come out right I can just grind in a lil deeper and turn it into a flat grind...well that's the hope anyway we will see what happens. also the guard I am using is a real guard off of a old Japanese sword the fit up hole has that convex shape to it so I am going to have to do it backwards in stead of making the guard fit the blade I gota make the blade fit the guard so doing the convex stuff on the blade might help me figure out the best way to do that convex shape on the front of the tang
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Old 11-15-2016, 04:40 PM
damon damon is offline
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make the blade to be the blade. there are other parts, if building traditional, the ferrule will fit the blade, and can be filed to fit the guard.
then comes the handle fitting details. (I foresee several lengthy discussions during this project) personally, id go with a flat grind.

http://www.kikaiiaidodojo.yolasite.com/sword-parts.php
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Old 11-15-2016, 05:02 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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damon thanks good link...yeh the ferrule was like the only piece of a katana or wakiashi that this guy at the show didn't have I got 2 gaurds and a pommel. ill have to do some searching and see if I can find some stuff on the fit up of things before I get to that point...I have never made that style of a ferrule and in my head I kinda see the tang needing to be shaped similar to the hole in the guard for the ferrule to fit tightly around the whole tang...like I said that's what I see in my head and my head is often far off so yeh ill have to find some info on the fit up
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Old 11-15-2016, 05:09 PM
damon damon is offline
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brass, or copper sheet is wrapped around the blade/tang then soldered shut. (some file adjustments will be necessary to get perfect fit) then the outside of the ferrule is filed it fit the guard.
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Old 11-15-2016, 05:18 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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yeh I guess that would do it....thanks a lot that will deffinitly help!
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Old 11-15-2016, 05:59 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Dave if you want to do a consistent convex grind you need a consistent "bend" in your belt. In other words how far is it from the edge of your platen to your wheels, top or bottom. I have a 3 inch distance between the two and can do a very consistent convex grind there. All I need to do is hold the blade in the same spot using the same pressure. I have only done convex grinds purposely for a couple of knives, but they came out even and a slight, but a noticeable bulge was visible. For my Viking axe I had to remove the platen as three inches was not enough. But you can use a slack belt and hold up near the idler wheel too, where it is harder to bend the belt. You don't want an excessive convex shape I would guess Dave. Practice first is all I can say. You can also tape a piece of leather over a thin piece of foam and tape that to your platen. I put a piece of leather on my platen once to help control the bump from the taped joint on the belt and ended up making very small convex grinds instead of flat grinds. It wasn't much, but it wasn't flat. I flattened them after HT.lol Don't grind where the tape is btw and set the platen just slightly off the belt. Like Ray said there are different ways to do it, so find what works best for you Dave.

I've made Tantos, but never a truly traditional one so listen to Damon if traditional is the route you want to take.
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advice, art, back, belt, blade, convex grind, edge, flat, flat grind, grind, grind in, grinding, guard, handle, japanese, knife, made, make, project, small, steel, tang, traditional


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