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High-Performance Blades Sharing ideas for getting the most out of our steel.

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  #1  
Old 05-02-2012, 04:42 PM
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Eli Jensen Eli Jensen is offline
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Small foundry

Hey everyone, I just wanted to get some second opinions on a small foundry I was going to build.

http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/...ndrydesign.png


It is essentially a two brick forge, but vertical. I had thoughts about making my new forge a two bricker and switching horizontal/vertical. But I think this would be a bad idea as far as it falling apart goes, and I think specialised is better. So, made out of two 2300F soft fire bricks, coated in satanite and ITC-100. I am using my Bernzomatic TS-8000. I am hoping that it will get hot enough, I need it just above 1900F. Once the copper melts with the tin, it should have a lower melting point and flow, I hope.

Let me know what you guys think. Questions: Does the outside have to be coated with satanite or is that just for wear resistance? Do you think the small trench on the bottom (or raised platform, depending how you think about it) is necessary/beneficial? I am probably only going to cast 5oz at a time.

Last edited by Eli Jensen; 05-02-2012 at 10:02 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-02-2012, 04:46 PM
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Eli Jensen Eli Jensen is offline
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PS, the proportions on the diagram may not be to scale
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  #3  
Old 05-03-2012, 03:58 PM
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Eli Jensen Eli Jensen is offline
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No one?
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  #4  
Old 05-04-2012, 05:20 AM
lytefoot45 lytefoot45 is offline
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Eli, I'm certainly no expert in what you're asking having never made a foundry, but it seems to me that the design shown would be relatively fragile if made from 2 insulation bricks. As "crumbly" as they are, I think that by the time you carved into them as shown, they would not be durable or strong. If I were attempting to make a foundry, I think I would find a metal container of the outside size desired and use castable refractory. I would make a mold in the shape of the inside and pour the refractory around it. Once the refractory cures, you would have a stronger and more durable foundry.
From my understanding, the Satanite and ITC100 (or Plistic) coating will be of no benefit on the outside -- the ITC coating would help reflect the heat to the inside of the foundry.
I ordered my refractory from Wayne Coe. This method would cost more than 2 bricks, but I think it would last longer and be safer.
Wayne
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  #5  
Old 05-04-2012, 06:07 AM
RandyScott RandyScott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eli Jensen View Post
It is essentially a two brick forge, but vertical. I had thoughts about making my new forge a two bricker and switching horizontal/vertical. So, made out of two 2300F soft fire bricks, coated in satanite and ITC-100. I am using my Bernzomatic TS-8000. I am hoping that it will get hot enough, I need it just above 1900F.

Let me know what you guys think. Questions: Does the outside have to be coated with satanite or is that just for wear resistance? Do you think the small trench on the bottom (or raised platform, depending how you think about it) is necessary/beneficial? I am probably only going to cast 5oz at a time.
Eli,

First: I ran a two bricker for 4 years; interior lined with satanite and ITC-100 using a Bernz-O-Matic JTH-7 torch and it was almost hot enough to weld. I can't address the TS-8000 as I have not used it.

2nd: I coated the outside of my 2 bricker with satanite for the wear resistance. Additionallly, I wrapped wire around it to hold it together as the soft fire brick will crack from the thermal expansion/contraction and the coated it with Satanite. Of course I used it horizontally. Using it vertically with a charge of molten metal.. I don't have any experience casting, but I would want something a little more substantial.

Here is a link to a website that caters to the backyard metal casters. Hope it is of some help.

http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/index.html
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Old 05-04-2012, 06:28 PM
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Eli Jensen Eli Jensen is offline
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Hey guys thanks for replying. I'm trying this design out because I need to minimize costs. I already have the bricks and satanite. I've already had to buy the metal, crucible, mold. You both are right and will invest in a more durable set up sometime in the future. I've already done a two brick forge, so I am familiar with the it all falls apart issue.
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  #7  
Old 05-04-2012, 08:33 PM
lytefoot45 lytefoot45 is offline
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OK, but we're going to need pictures.
Good Luck!!!!
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  #8  
Old 05-04-2012, 11:07 PM
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Eli Jensen Eli Jensen is offline
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Will do.
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  #9  
Old 05-05-2012, 08:59 PM
Larry Peterson Larry Peterson is offline
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Friend,
I cast my guards and pommels with a little foundry set up I purchased from, "Lost & Foundry". You can google them up if you want to look at their products. This is a propane unit and works better for a heater than my wood burning stove out in the shop in the winter. I have used it to heat treat a couple of carbon steel knives and I am really happy with it. I don't know how it would work for forging. My shoulder has been replaced and I don't hammer any more than I have to now days.

I felt like I got my money's worth after trying out this furnace. I use a #5 and a #4 crucible and pour white brass with a little tin added.

Best of luck with your quest, Larry Peterson
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  #10  
Old 05-06-2012, 03:36 PM
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Eli Jensen Eli Jensen is offline
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Here are some pics so far. Turned out to be a 2-half brick forge.





1" torch portal
http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/...s/CIMG2518.jpg

I bought a graphite mold but want to try my own from equal parts sand, satanite, ground firebrick, and furnace cement.









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  #11  
Old 05-07-2012, 01:38 PM
Larry Peterson Larry Peterson is offline
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Location: I was born and raised in Spanish Fork, Utah. I now live between Manti and Ephraim, Utah. We built a home here about 10 year ago.
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Eli,

The time will come when you will want to cast something. I would counsel you to use "Petrobond sand" to get a very fine finish with the least amount of problems. Most foundry supply places will sell a 50 pound bag for about $1.00 per pound. Fifty pounds will go a very long way. The K-bond formula is just barely OK but is still not as good, in my oppinion, as the regular petrobond. A small spoon will remove the burned portion of the sand and the rest is perfectly good to reuse. Save the burnt sand and add a little oil and it will rejouvinate. I use canola oil straight from K-mart to rejuvenate the sand. Lots of folks use non-detergent 2 cycle oil so it doesn't flame up.

I hope I am not telling you more than you want to know. Talcum powder is an excellent parting compound. I use an old sock to powder.

Best wishes on your quest! Larry Peterson
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  #12  
Old 05-07-2012, 03:10 PM
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Eli Jensen Eli Jensen is offline
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Do you need a parting agent for using a graphite mold?

I will NEVER EVER want to cast things EVER!!!!! Muahhahaa! Maybe one day but right now I'd be happy getting bars.
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  #13  
Old 05-08-2012, 01:10 PM
Larry Peterson Larry Peterson is offline
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Eli,
I use "plumbago" which is super fine graphite on everything I want to keep from sticking. It is primarily for the pattern and where the sand meets the sand after the pattern is removed. Try your carbon mold without dusting and if it doesn't stick I see no reason to dust it.

I am really happy to see your success. This is an amazing journey and I wish you well!!!

Larry Peterson
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brass, design, forge, forging, guards, hammer, heat treat, knives, steel, supply, ts-8000, two bricker


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