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Old 10-10-2016, 05:59 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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What's been happening in my shop lately...

Thought some of you would like to see what I've been up to lately. Here are a few I finished up recently. Top to bottom, the Coyote with quilted Cherry in 1084, the Longbeard with figured Maple in 1095, the Grouse with Padauk in 0-1 and the Quail with Purpleheart in 0-1



I've had it on my mind to make some small EDC knives with minimal finishing. These have no hand finishing, just grinding belt down to 400 grit on the bevels and flats with a scotch brite wheel finish. Black paper Micarta and peened stainless pins. Each with a Kydex sheath with a belt clip that allows horizontal, vertical, inverted carry or removable for a neck knife. Also will take a large TeckLoc. I made two of each in 1095 and 0-1. I kept the O-1 "Hornet". The Hornet has a wider, drop point blade. The "Scorpion" has a sort of modified Tanto shaped blade. (2 Scorpions shown) These little blades are wicked sharp!









CONTINUED...


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Last edited by WNC Goater; 10-10-2016 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 10-10-2016, 06:08 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Continued...

These were the ones that gave me some trouble a few weeks ago with my attempt at etching. So I reground and forgot about etching for now.



My own Hornet. I like the horizontal carry in front. You can bend over, sit down, wear a seatbelt, go to the john... never even know it's there.



I recently found some old fiddleback Maple scraps in the bottom of a nine year old box of wood scraps I was emptying. My wife and I built my daughter a rocking horse I believe for her 2nd Christmas. These scraps were left over from that. I thought they were long gone. Not large enough for a wood working project but they are great for knife scales and have some beautiful figure. A little stain really makes it pop!
Here is one, the "Hunter" with the Fiddleback Maple scales, in 1084. This knife and the sheath I made for it, was donated to a local ministry/food bank for their annual auction coming up later this month. This knife is a beauty IMHO. I look forward to using some more of this Maple in upcoming knives.











CONTINUED...


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Last edited by WNC Goater; 10-10-2016 at 06:37 PM.
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Old 10-10-2016, 06:22 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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This past weekend was particularly productive. Mrs. Goat and the young goat went to a Girl Scout camp (In the midst of torrential rain from Matthew) which gave me a free day on Saturday. So I got busy....



Three of those were mild steel from Lowes I profiled for the purpose of making myself learn to freehand grind. I succeeded! So I have 9 blanks underway. Four are now ground and drilled and ready for HT. The 2 one the left are my "Hunter" and for a customer. The three mild steel blanks are on the right, beside the 1084 skinner.

I got to use my small wheel attachment from Knife Grinder Parts. http://www.knifegrinderparts.com/collections/all

I only used the 1" wheel which was just right for the "Hunter" the "Brooktrout" and my newest knife, the "Ursus".




At first I was a bit apprehensive at the aluminum tool arm vs. the heavy steel arm that came with the KMG. With the platen attachment and tool rest, it is a heavy son-of-a-gun. The aluminum by comparison, is a lightweight. But it is sturdy and rigid and I am impressed with the quality of workmanship. The arm with small wheel attachment and set of 5 wheels was about $204 including the shipping.




My first two totally freehand grinds, no jig, actual blanks! Bottome two are ground now, one is 0-1 from NJSB. He's been out of 0-1 for weeks. The bottom is 0-1 from Sheffields that Jim had told us about. Nice enough people to work with, shipped out promptly. It has a black mill scale which I may make one blank and leave the flats unfinished with that mill scale for a "forged" look.



And so, that's what's happening in my shop in recent weeks and currently. Show us all what you're doing!


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Last edited by WNC Goater; 10-10-2016 at 06:34 PM.
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Old 10-10-2016, 06:56 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Some nice work there and congrats on the free hand grinding! One question though: why isn't your makers mark black?


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Old 10-10-2016, 07:42 PM
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nice work Goater.......


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Old 10-11-2016, 10:23 AM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Rogers View Post
Some nice work there and congrats on the free hand grinding! One question though: why isn't your makers mark black?
It's just etched, not blackened. Etched with AC, blackened with DC (or vice versa?) Need to get a DC output wall charger (Or AC depending on what I have now) I believe I'm correct that AC etches and DC blackens.
Been kind of on the fence with this. I like the etching and the etching with black as well but, Meh, not a big feeling one way or another. Or so big of a deal that I've yet focused on that.
One of those things on the bucket list to do because I DO lean toward liking the blacked in makers mark.


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Old 10-11-2016, 10:31 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I believe its the DC that etches and most wall warts put out DC. The simple thing is to find a wall wart that puts out AC and then get a diode at Radio Shack. Most any diode will do. Put the diode in line with the wire that you clip to the blade and etch as you have been doing, remove the diode an etch again. Done.

AC wall warts are fairly common for musical equipment, especially Fender brand. You can also find them on eBay in various voltage ranges....


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Old 10-11-2016, 05:47 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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AC blackens Goater.
http://erniesknives.com/How%20to%20Etch%20Logo.MP4
link to Ernie the Stencil Guy.lol

I remembered your problem with etching those blades, I see you did a nice job on them, I also see the ones up on top and really like them. Notice that the purple heart gets darker over time it turns kind of brownish purple. Odd wood, so is the Padauk, but they look nice. I really like that semi-tanto grind knife, have you ever tried blueing Goater? It's one of my favorite things to do, I think it would look good on that tanto, but I think blueing looks good on most knives lol. I use it to antique brass sometimes too.

That fiddle back maple handle is awesome, you say you put some stain on it? What color did you use, if you don't mind? I have some maple that has some good figuring in it, but it's light and not obvious, maybe some stain will make it stand out like yours does.
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Old 10-12-2016, 07:00 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Originally Posted by jimmontg View Post
AC blackens Goater.
http://erniesknives.com/How%20to%20Etch%20Logo.MP4
link to Ernie the Stencil Guy.lol


I I really like that semi-tanto grind knife, have you ever tried blueing Goater? It's one of my favorite things to do, I think it would look good on that tanto, but I think blueing looks good on most knives lol. I use it to antique brass sometimes too.

That fiddle back maple handle is awesome, you say you put some stain on it? What color did you use, if you don't mind? I have some maple that has some good figuring in it, but it's light and not obvious, maybe some stain will make it stand out like yours does.
I bought my stencils from Ernie. About time to order some more. I'm only getting about 5-6 uses out of each before I start losing detail. My little doohicky may put out too many amps. Dunno. I press for 3 seconds then pause. Do that about 5 times. Seems otherwise the stencil really degrades if used with one long application. Heat I guess.

I haven't tried bluing but intend to give it a try, maybe on the next batch of those little EDC's.

The stain I used was Minwax Red Oak. I've used Golden Oak which is a little lighter. I may try a different one. I'd like a hair bit darker and more brownish, less warm (reddish) tint.
I follow the stain with a coat of BLO followed by several thin, hand rubbed coats of TruOil, sanded with 0000 steel wool between coats. Finish with the steel wool then buff with a cotton rag. Leaves a nice satin finish.


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Old 10-12-2016, 07:08 PM
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You're doing it right with the 3 seconds and rest technique, totaling 15 or 20 seconds. An overly long exposure will burn out the stencil faster and it makes a messier looking mark. I use an Etch-O-Matic, very popular with knife makers. It uses 12vAC and 6vDC, some models of etchers double those numbers. For knives, one amp is plenty. So, if your doohicky exceeds those figures that could contribute to your stencil wear ...


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Old 10-12-2016, 07:49 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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My doohicky puts out 12 v and 1.5A.
I only rest for a count of 2-3 seconds between 3 second exposures. Maybe I should rest longer between exposures?
Maybe I'll check with Radio Shack this weekend and see about an AC output.


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Old 10-12-2016, 09:02 PM
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I do 3 seconds on, 2 seconds off for a total of 20 seconds so I don't think that's your problem. But, maybe less amperage would help. I Radio Shack doesn't have what you need, eBay does. If you need help locating one I can find it for you ...


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Old 10-13-2016, 09:16 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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WNC Goater.....VERY VERY NICE WORK!! not saying the wood ones are not great (they are!) but I really like the set with black handles very nice. I also really like the tanto (the one that doesn't have a handle yet) really nice design put up a pic of that one when its done! I also like to carry my blade horizontal or if I do carry vertical its upside down (wich kydex does a great job of making sure it doesn't fall out). the one with the maple handle also looks great and mtches that sheath great. seems you have been very productive with all those blanks. I have had a lot going on but I have been trying to spend time freehand grinding mild steel blanks too but for hollow grinding. hollow grinding is still very hard for me I have one of those jigs like the one on jantz and I use that to start then finish freehand but still practicing to get it all freehand just as you are...I am happy you said you suceded with just a couple blanks that is awesome....I have been messing around trying to hollow grind for a while now. when I first started using earnies stencils I also didn't know how to blacken them well now I have figured that out but most of the time I don't blacken them sometimes yeh but a lot of the time I really like the look of it without being blackened.. I do have a question or actually 2 questions you said you got your small wheels from knifegrinderparts.com right? those wheels are just steel right (the ones from Beaumont have a coating of rubber) have you used the ones from Beaumont with the rubber? can you compare? if not how have the steel ones worked out good ? can you really feel the joint of the belt go across is it bad? my other question is you have a 1in one you said right? is that big enough to make a finger slot or would you think a bigger one would work better I have a smaller one 3/4 and I can make a finger slot but I have to work it In and around it would be easier to have one that is big enough to just pus straight in and be done and not have to move it all around to make it bigger ya know what I mean? either way great work!
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Old 10-13-2016, 02:16 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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WNC Goater.....VERY VERY NICE WORK!!

Thank you!

I have had a lot going on but I have been trying to spend time freehand grinding mild steel blanks too but for hollow grinding. hollow grinding is still very hard for me

As I understand, hollow grinding has its own learning curve even if one is proficient with flat grinding, meaning more difficult to learn.

I am happy you said you suceded with just a couple blanks that is awesome....I have been messing around trying to hollow grind for a while now.

I am just flat grinding to clarify. I have no large wheel as yet.

I do have a question or actually 2 questions you said you got your small wheels from knifegrinderparts.com right? those wheels are just steel right (the ones from Beaumont have a coating of rubber) have you used the ones from Beaumont with the rubber? can you compare?

No, I haven't used a rubber or rubber coated small wheel, only the steel. So I cannot compare the two. I figure a rubber wheel may cut a little more smoothly as the steel wheel can get a little wavy if you don't keep it moving. But what I'm using may be crappy and I just don't know any better because again, I can't compare it to a rubber or rubber coated having never used one.


if not how have the steel ones worked out good ? can you really feel the joint of the belt go across is it bad?
Yes, you can feel the joint, and particularly with the finer grits and j-flex belts. But I experience that even when grinding in the higher grits or more flexible belts. So I think that may be more of a result of the grit or belt thickness and flexibility.

my other question is you have a 1in one you said right? is that big enough to make a finger slot or would you think a bigger one would work better I have a smaller one 3/4 and I can make a finger slot but I have to work it In and around it would be easier to have one that is big enough to just pus straight in and be done and not have to move it all around to make it bigger ya know what I mean?
Yes, you need a little larger "hole" or finger slot than what you get with the 3/4" wheel so you have to "wallow it out" to make it big enough, right? I would guess that the 1" wheel would be large enough but that would be somewhat subjective and a matter of taste.
.


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Old 10-13-2016, 02:50 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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I use 1" drum sanders for finger grooves Dave so a 1" small contact wheel would work as well as a 3/4".
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