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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Grinding a clean Scandinavian style edge
I'm working on a knife that a friend and I colaborated on. He wants it to have a Scandinavian style single bevel edge. The trouble I'm running into is keeping a nice straight and even line down the length (4.75") of the blade. The few knives that I've done to this point have all been full, flat grinds all the way to the spine. Now I find that my hand isn't quite as steady as I thought it was as I try this new style of grind. I figure this will be similar for hollow grinding when I start doing that.
Is there any fixture I should be using here that I don't know about or is it just a practice practice practice issue? Doc __________________ Semper Fi! Corpsman Up! |
#2
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The first thing I do is make sure that the sides are perfectly flat. Then I start on the bevel... go slow. I get things roughed out with a 60 grit and then go straight to a 220 to fine tune the bevel line. I make sure that each pass starts in the same place and goes all the way across the entire blade. I start at the ricasso and move toward the tip, edge up. You can clean things up by alternating between the bevel and the flat.
Practice... |
#3
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single bevel edge
Hard isn't it ? !!
I quite like those single bevel edges. I think Phil Hartsfield (was it him ?) calls them a "zero edge." Looks like quite a number of big name makers use it - Steve Corkum for example. I've tried to do it but my main difficulty came with very quickly overheating the thin edge portion. So I have to run very quick passes on the belt. If you have a variable speed belt it might help. Not quite the same thing but this might work. I use it to get a very fine Moran edge on my rope cutting Bowies. I also call it the accidental edge because it came about when I made a mistake doing a satin hand rub. I can do it on a machine but its fun doing it by hand too. With the bevels roughly ground in to ?240 / 320grit, I grind in an actual edge bevel as on a "normal" blade. It has to be at final sharpness - no flats or dings in the edge. I then do the hand rub with 240 and 400grit paper, intentionally sanding out the transition between primary and edge bevel. The surface area is so small it should be very quick, even on hardened steel. BE VERY CAREFUL to not slash your fingers open. I always do my hand rubs with aluminium paddles that have a sort of a guard that prevents you getting cut. Its a convexed edge so not quite the same, but keep sanding and you can blend it into the main bevels. I don't know if it'll work with hollowgrinding. I suspect you'll need to rejib the depth of your hollows, otherwise the step from main bevels to edge will still be obvious. Did someone mention practise ... Cheers. __________________ JASON CUTTER BLADEART Jason Cutter @ Dr Kwong Yeang Knifemaker, Australia (Matthew 10.16) |
#4
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Thanks for the info guys.
Anyone else who wants to add in here, please do. All information is highly appreciated. Doc __________________ Semper Fi! Corpsman Up! |
#5
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__________________ Friends may come and go but enemies accumulate. :cool: NT screaming gamecock Gann |
#6
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Gan,
Wow!!! Excellent site for the ScandiKnife junkie. Thank you thank you thank you. BTW. Where is New Caney in relation to San Antonio? Doc __________________ Semper Fi! Corpsman Up! |
#7
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I'M ABOUT 30 MILES NORTH OF HOUSTON ON HWY 59.
WE GO TO THE HILL COUNTRY ALOT. WOULD LOVE TO MOVE THERE OR BUILD A WEEKEND COTTAGE THERE. __________________ Friends may come and go but enemies accumulate. :cool: NT screaming gamecock Gann |
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blade, knife, knives |
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