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Old 04-05-2009, 05:09 PM
Wade Holloway Wade Holloway is offline
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Runaway Bay, Texas
Posts: 664
Help with a critique please

This is really my 2nd that I have done from start to finish by myself. I would very much like to get constructive critisium on this so I know what I need to work on. I have 3 more kind of like this in the works with two of them to be a matched set. So I really would like to get these right. This knife is 01, 1/8" inch thick. Over all length is 7 3/8" inches with the blade having a 2 3/4" inch cutting area and being 3 1/2" inches to the edge of the handle. Handle is Ebony with 1/8" front pin and 3/16" mosiac pin in the back. I still have to put a finish on the scales and put the final edge on the blade. I have the sheath almost finished. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Sorry for the pics, they are not the best in the world.

Bird & Trout.pdf

Bird & Trout Knife A.pdf

Bird & Trout Knife B.pdf

Let me know what you think. Thanks for looking.
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Old 04-05-2009, 05:25 PM
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Ed Caffrey Ed Caffrey is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Great Falls, Montana, USA
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Hi Wade!

Its difficult to see the blade very well in the photos, so I can't/won't comment on blade finish or any other aspect of the blade.
However, overall it looks very good for your second knife. Something that caught my eye right away were how squared off the handle slabs are (I would prefer to see them more rounded) The key is that a knife is a tool, and whether its a display piece, or a user, it should be made so that it fits the contours of your hand. Flat surfaces, especially on the handle make for angles that quickly become uncomfortable to the user. The other thing that caught my eye was that the front and back pins are different. Its just a personal observation/opinion of mine, but I think those should match. If they don't it gives me the impression that the maker either forgot something or didn't really think about the overall knife while it was being built.

Both of those things I've mentioned are by no means show stoppers! The difference between a "good" knife, and a "great" knife are the little things. That will come with more time and more practice. Overall the knife looks very good, and you should be proud of yourself for it's completion.

"Nobody cares what you know.....until they know you care."
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Old 04-06-2009, 06:55 AM
Wade Holloway Wade Holloway is offline
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Runaway Bay, Texas
Posts: 664
Thanks so much for you advice Ed, it is really appreciated. The handles being a little to square are right ofcourse. It is one of those things that I knew better but did it anyway. I will try to round them up some. I started out planning on putting 3 pins with the mosiac in the middle and thought it was a litte crowded, but in retrospect it would have looked better and more balanced. I think I will try to drill the front pin out and put in another mosaic pin. If that does not work out right is there an easy way to take the scales off and redo them? I will try to take some better pics of the blade. All of the ones I took had a bad glare in them. Again I really appreciate you helping me out.
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Old 04-06-2009, 10:25 AM
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SBuzek SBuzek is offline
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Waller,TX
Posts: 293
looks good for a starter.If you are coming to Don's end of the month bring it along and the bunch of us can offer some advise. Ed has said all I easy way to get the could try soaking in some 200 deg water for a few min. and see if the epoxy will loosen. As for taking better picturesyou need a cheap light box, check out the photography forumfor Coop's simple light box.
Now start on the next one.

aspire to inspire before you expire
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Old 04-07-2009, 06:11 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Acworth, GA and/or Hanging Dog, NC
Posts: 3,494
Looking pretty good Brother Wade.
Ed's point-on with the handle shape. Just get a big pine board and start cutting, it will become obvious quite quickly and if you are paying attention to your hand you will quickly discover where the "harsh" points are.

On the mosaic pin - depending on the pin material (if steel forget this), carefully center punch and drill out the pin from both sides about 1/3 way through the scale on each side. Go slow and use a sharp bit to reduce the chance of friction heat destroying the epoxy integrety. If successful, follow up with the correct size brad-point bit for the mosaic pin. Rough the outside of the mosaic a little and epoxy in place. Make sure you cut the section of mosaic to stand a little proud of the handle for a good final flush finish.
Note: not as strong as a complete through pin, but if the epoxy joint and initial pin fit were good, this would in effect, be a hidden pin construction, and should be sufficient for a light to medium duty knife of that size.

That aside, a full through pin would be stronger, however redrilling through the O1 to enlarge the size (unless you use a good carbide bit when you hit steel) will probably end in badly for the handle material and your temperment.

Had a great Trackrock weekend. Maybe someone will post some pictures on the Ga Guild Forum. Hope Texas is treating you well friend.

Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith
Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member
Knifemakers Guild, voting member
Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts
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Old 04-07-2009, 09:42 AM
AcridSaint AcridSaint is offline
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,144
Hi Wade - my personal opinion is that bird and trout knives should be slender and a bit "dainty". I would like to see some of the handle trimmed down to match the slenderness of the blade profile. I think the knife would flow better that way. I just thought that might help.

Cap Hayes

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-- "Strategically placed blood grooves control blood spray in covert deanimation activities." --
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