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The Outpost This forum is dedicated to all who share a love for, and a desire to make good knives, and have fun doing it. We represent a diverse group of smiths and knifemakers who bring numerous methods to their craft.

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  #1  
Old 10-10-2001, 11:45 AM
chuckj6
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Railroad Spike Knife


I have come across some hc railroad spikes that I want to make into knives. Anyone have some basic guidelines? I was thinking about a twisted handle. I am open to suggestions. Thanks, Chuck
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  #2  
Old 10-10-2001, 11:52 AM
Bob Warner
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I have made several in the past and this is a popular one for me.


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  #3  
Old 10-10-2001, 09:21 PM
Jeff Sanders
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WoW , Thats a nice knife.
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  #4  
Old 10-11-2001, 09:29 AM
chuckj6
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That is a beautiful knife. Just what I had in mind. Would you care to share the forging steps? I'm just a beginner at forging of the blade. Thanks.
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  #5  
Old 10-11-2001, 11:59 AM
Bob Warner
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Hopefully you have a post vise or similar vise that you can put hot stuff in. You also need a method for grabbing the metal really tight without slipping. If so, here you go:

Heat the spike up and smooth the head of the spike of there are any defects. I generally just get spikes that are not messed up. Then heat it completely, put the head into the vise with the point up. Get your tongs (I have some strong ones) and twist the spike. Don't go more that 1/2 turn or the spirals are too tight (for me anyway). Make sure you keep the spike straight and you twist evenly. Grab the spike about 1" below the point, don't use anything within one inch of the point. Try to complete your twist in one heat. I have had to reheat and it is difficult to continue a twist without getting it uneven. Once the spike is twisted, turn it around and get the point hot. Hammer out the 1" (edge of the hammer to push it out lengthwise) to your blade length, then hammer into the profile you want. After profiling, hammer in your blade bevels and you are done. Start the grinding and polishing. I normally polish the head (and sides of the head) of the spike to a mirror finish and polish the blade to a mirror also. I leave the scale on the handle and pick off whatever I can without scratching and making it ugly. Then buff the handle (Scale) with black compound until shiney. Wash it all off with soap and water, get you water as hot as possible so that it heats up the metal while washing it. When you dry it off the heat of the metal will evaporate the rest of the water out. Put a coat of carnuba wax on it and your finished.

Keep watching the photography site. I sent Steve Korn a spike knife I made where I mirror polished the entire thing. Steve is having a heck of a time getting photos without reflections. When he sends me the pictures I'll post them if he does not post them first.
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  #6  
Old 10-12-2001, 09:20 AM
chuckj6
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Thanks for the information. I have to make one (or try anyway). I havent worked any thick metal yet. Most that I have done is 1/8" bar stock. This should be a real challange. Thanks. Chuck.
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  #7  
Old 10-14-2001, 06:31 AM
Bob Warner
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Keep everyone posted on your progress. Let me know how helpful my information was. I am always looking for feedback on if my directions are adequate.
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  #8  
Old 10-19-2001, 02:10 PM
Bob Warner
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How is this going? I am curious if you have started forging your spike yet. Did my directions help you out at all?

Let us know.
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  #9  
Old 10-22-2001, 11:25 AM
chuckj6
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I have been quite busy studying for my General Class ####### in ham radio. I took and passed the test Saturday, so now on to the spike.

This morning I went out and I was able to complete the twists. I put 4 1/2 turn twist in the spike. Using 1/2 turn per heat. My forge is out of fuel now so I must restock before going further. However, before it ran out I started trying to draw the 1" spike tip out. I used the edge of the hammer with an angle blow putting gouges in the steel----but the metal was being drawn out. Let me know if I am not doing this right!

The problem being from me not paying attention which side I was hammering on. The blade is 1/2 turn off. With the spike laying flat the head of the spike is facing towards me. I could probably correct this by putting another 1/2 turn in the twist.

I ended up with a handle section with some curve in it from not keeping it perfectly straight while trying to do the twist. Not to easy for a beginner. I will keep trying on this spike to get the hang of it. Thanks.
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  #10  
Old 10-22-2001, 06:47 PM
Bob Warner
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Here is a picture of the spike that I told you about. Hope you can get some ideas from it.


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  #11  
Old 02-20-2002, 08:35 AM
MaxTheKnife
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Dang Bob, I saw a few spike knives at the Arkansas Custom Knife Show but they pale in comparison to yours. It's really cool taking an old rusty railroad spike and forging it into a beautiful work of art like that. Thanks for the pics. Chuck, pay attention to this fellar. You can do it buddy. Just keep after it.

Hey Bob, have you ever tried soaking your spike knives in vinegar to get the scale off? It sure makes cleanup easier. Heating the vinegar seems to speed up the process. Just a hot tip for you old buddy.
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  #12  
Old 02-20-2002, 09:44 AM
Bob Warner
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Thanks Max,

I get quite a few compliments on my spike knives. They are not really my interest long term but they are fun to make and sell well. I have actually had someone tell me that a RR spike I had in my truck was garbage. That was on a Friday, on Monday I brought in that same spike made into a knife and sold it to the same guy for $150. He could not believe he bought that piece of garbage and was happy to pay my price. That is what makes you feel good.

I have seen a lot of different styles of RR spike knives and think my style looks pretty good.

I have used vinegar a few times to remove scale but usually hit it with the angle grinder instead because I don't have to wait for the vinegar to do its work.



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  #13  
Old 02-20-2002, 01:06 PM
MaxTheKnife
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I don't know if I've posted this pic before so here it is again. This knife was forged from a high carbon spike. I forged it while doing a demo for a friend wanting to learn the steps to forging and finishing a blade. It wasn't supposed to get hard since it was a railroad spike knife. The only reason I used the railroad spike is because I have a good supply and don't use them much because of their softness. Believe me, this knife got full hard using normal heat treating techniques. I treated it just like high carbon steel except for the tempering step. I was running out of time so I just explained that step. It passed the chopping test with very minor damage. Chopped through two 2" sections of white oak. The damage came from dirt imbedded in the wood.

I forget the dimensions but overall length was close to 14" give or take.


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  #14  
Old 04-05-2002, 03:34 PM
Bob Warner
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Is the knife finished yet? Curious if you gave up or are still working on it.
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  #15  
Old 10-26-2004, 11:42 AM
karamasika karamasika is offline
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railroad spike knife

how do you get to see the pictures?
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