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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
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#1
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books on making folders
Hello,
I have "The Lockback Knife: From first Design to Completed Folding" And I am interested in Don's book. I just have one question, when I read through the great sticky's on making slipjoints that Don wrote, he is using what for me is a pretty sophisticated set of tools (mostly the milling machine). I have only hand tools and a drill press, will I be able to adapt what is in the books to those tools. I hope the answer is yes. Benoit |
#2
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When I wrote the books, I realized most people wouldn't have a machine shop at home, so with each step I tried to explain an alternate method.
I believe you'll find the books very helpful. Have fun! |
#3
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In general, a person can do most anything by hand, that can be done by a machine, it only requires more time, more effort, and usually more thought.
__________________ WWW.CAFFREYKNIVES.NET Caffreyknives@gmail.com "Every CHOICE has a CONSEQUENCE, and all your CONSEQUENCES are a result of your CHOICES." |
#4
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thanks to both of you. I am convinced about what you just said Ed, which is why I have been making a few knives that way. It is just that as a software engineer I don't know much about working with metal in a shop and I have had to learn everything through the internet (I did take some classes on forging and made a forged knife but I don't have the forge + anvil and space for them to put it in practice yet).
So I have a question which came to me yesterday when reading the thread from Don on making a barlow knife. I have bought and have been using pivots from USA knife maker, specifically these: PIVOT BARREL 3/16" X 3/8" FOR FOLDERS WITH (2) 4-40 X 1/4 BH SS I had read that I need to ream the hole so I am doing just that. However in a post from Don there was a recommendation to use specific size drill bit to pre-drill the hole before reaming. What I had been doing is using the next smaller drill in the box I bought, specifically a 5/32. Is this OK or should I get a drill bit closer in dimension to the final hole? Also if you look at the last knife I made (reposting a picture so it is not necessary to search for it) When I wanted to lower the screws so they would be recessed in the handle. For this I chose a drill bit slightly larger than the washers I have, set the stop for my drill press and drill again. The result is not too bad but the larger hole is not really centered on the smaller one the way I expected. What would be a better way to do this? Thanks in advance Benoit |
#5
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I used a piloted counterbore. The pilot keeps the c'bore perfectly centered.
As for the reamed hole, the more material the reamer has to remove, the more oversize the finished hole will be. Last edited by Don Robinson; 06-11-2017 at 09:40 AM. |
#6
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thank you for your answer, I just googled what a piloted counterbore is and didn't know those existed.
Regarding the reamer, so it looks like I need to buy new drillbits (at least one). I have to say I am lost when it comes to the US measurements, between drills that come by number and those that have fraction of inches. Would you mind giving me a recomendation for a drill size when I will then ream a 3/16" hole. Again sorry for the newbie questions but between being new to this and moving from metrics land to the US it is easy to get confused. |
#7
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I'd use a size #77 (.180 inch) for a 3/16" (.1875 inch) reamer.
Here's a conversion chart for you. http://www.smithbearing.com/images/p...ionalChart.pdf |
#8
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thanks Don, I also started to look at the piloted counterbore but (of course) I will need the exact dimensions of the hardware I want to use and I don't have them at work (I just know that the inner hole is 1/8 which should then be the size of the pilot but I need to measure the screw head size.
On the other hand, this is what I got from USAKnifemaker: http://usaknifemaker.com/folding-kni...r-folders.html I know they are pivots but I use them as fasteners, the pivot goes through the liners and spacer/lockbar and the screws are in holes in the scales. However I am now thinking that recessing the screws in the scale would look better with sockethead screws. So I should buy new sockethead screws the correct size. I assume that 2-56 corresponds to the thread type and thickness of the screw and 1/4 is the length. So something like this: http://usaknifemaker.com/screw-2-56-...teel-25ct.html would work. I then need a piloted counterbore with a 1/8 pilot and slightly more than .13" diameter. So maybe this counterbore: http://usaknifemaker.com/3-16-counte...rby-bolts.html with this pilot: http://usaknifemaker.com/pilot-shaft...-32-shaft.html Best regards Benoit PS: also should I look for this only on knifesupply sites or are those standard enough that I can find them on other sites. I tried amazon where I found a set of counterbore + pilot but I didn't quite find the specs I wanted (OD for the pilot which would work with which of the counterbore in the set) |
#9
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Hello,
I wrote a response post which got stuck until moderator approvals, probably because it had links toward specific hardware in a knifesupply store. Here is similar content without links: I have been using 1/8 inch diameter pivot + 2-56 buttonhead screws from a knife supply store as fastener for my knives, basically having the pivot go through spacer + liners or lockbar + liners and then I screw them on both sides with the screws. I want to confirm that 2-56 in this case is standard enough and I can buy another type of screws (I think sockethead would look better recessed) and use those. But when I look at the datasheet it says that the sockethead screws have a .13" head diameter, I have found: -Pilot shaft for Counterbore 1/8" OD with 3/32" shaft which should be a good pilot for my 1/8 holes But the smallest Counterbore with 3/32 shaft I have found is -Counterbore 3/16" with 3/32" pilot hole I am afraid that it will be too big, 3/16 is 0.1875 (funny but in the chart you gave me a link to they have a typo, they have 13/16 instead of 3/16). Thanks for all the help Benoit PS: amazon just sent me a mail the my-way book is on its way but the slipjoint my way is yet to ship. |
Tags |
anvil, at home, book, books, buy, design, drill, easy, folder, folding, forged, forging, hand, home, knife, knives, lockback, lockback knife, making, newbie, post, press, question, shop, tools |
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