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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#16
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Hunter. you didn't really say what file your thinking about working with but if you stick to something like a Nicholson or a swissmade you should be fine.No Chinese gunk!
everyone's put their 2cents in so now its time for you to give it a try... only thing you'll loose if it doesn't work is a file and some time. you'll need a Carbide drill to drill the holes for the pins in the handle. temper it first, then keep it cool while you grind. If you see any color you've goofed. If its 1095 (maybe W2) here is a place to read up on it. I'd temper the file twice at 525def F for an hour or more each time... two hours would be better. http://www.cashenblades.com/steel/1095.html keep us posted Erik |
#17
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Erik
525* is awful high for 1995 or W1/W2. I'd begin at 400*, test the edge then go up 25* at a time until the blade is not too brittle. I have found that most file steels work out best at 425*. Although I often draw the temper twice (because my tempering oven has a timer set on it to do that), I think if you read back through post on this and other forums, more than once at the right temp is not measurably beneficial for shallow hardening steels (I'm just too lazy to change the timer and I also do other steels). Hunter, If all you have is a torch(?) to heat your steel (sounds, as Ray mentioned, your experience is limited), you are in for a hard way to learn thermal cycling steel for cutlery purposes. That's why most wind up making/buying some type of forge or oven to do this. Depending on just how large a blade you intend to make, I would suggest you read up on "One Brick Forges" or "Coffee Can Forges". Easily made and will at least give you some amount of control with your heats. By all means, you should have fun with this, but you might as well add a little study time and get things as close to "right" as you can. You say you don't have "Time", well if you don't have time to get it right first go round....then where are you going to get the time to correct the mistakes? There is a tremendous amount of info here on KNF. Please avail yourself, before you acquire too many bad habits - it's always harder for us to shake bad habits. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H Last edited by Crex; 11-09-2013 at 06:42 AM. |
#18
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I've looked at making a small one but how would you control the temperature or even know what temperature it was?
__________________ -Hunter |
#19
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You need to do more homework on the process of heat treating in a small forge. You don't actually worry about what temperature you have - there really isn't any good way to measure the temp in one of those one brick forges without making more investment that anyone who would use a one brick forge would be willing to make. Instead, a magnet is used to test the blade to see when it has reached the point of being non-magnetic. Whatever that temperature is doesn't matter but that's what you're looking for. Then quench, then temper in a toaster oven where you can measure the temperature (around 450F is needed).
What I just said is a gross over simplification of the process and not to be taken literally without some study into the details of the process involved in finding the non-mag point ... |
#20
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last batch of files I annealed I just built a fire. throw the files into the coal bed to heat them up, and just let them cool in the ash overnight. not very high-tech, but it works.
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Tags |
1084, 1095, bee, blade, file, file knife, files, grinding, heat, heat treat, hot, how to, hunter, knife, knife making, knives, make, man, nessmuk, old file, pins, steel, store, supply, wood |
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