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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Plunge lines
I am having a lot of trouble getting my plunge lines sanded or even remotely looking like plunge lines. They're gouged and just in general disarray.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...w?usp=drivesdk https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...w?usp=drivesdk Im embarrassed to say but the picture doesn't do it justice. the gouges, marring and difference in the plunge lines is more prominent in person. I have likely used all of the wrong tools for it. I have tried a round file, a tiny dremel sanding drum and sanding by hand. each method caused more harm than good. Last edited by gkyle840; 10-31-2016 at 08:33 PM. |
#2
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Some guys do start off by putting in the plunge cuts and then going on to grind the rest of the blade but it doesn't have to be done that way. Plunge cuts can simply develop as you grind the blade by whatever method you can use. Making a set of 'file guides' can be very useful in this situation.
File guides can be used with your files, sandpaper, or even a full blown 2x72 grinder. All they need to be is two rectangular pieces of hardened blade steel with a screw through each end. The screws need to be far enough apart for your blade to fit between them. The leading edges of the guide need to be ground flat and even so that they are the same when you tighten down the screws and pinch your blade between them. The guides stay on until your plunges are done. I like O1 for the guides. Harden it but don't temper it. That way, your files or belts won't wear it away very quickly. Now, all that being said there is still another option and that is to not have plunge cuts at all. On the blade in the picture just grind on back into the back of the blade until they disappear. There might be a little bit left higher up on the blade but they will be so small that matching them up shouldn't be much of an issue. All my chef's knives were done this way.... |
#3
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I like that idea! they look awful so I will do away with them. are they easier to create with a grinder? I will be ordering the grizzly 2x72 as soon as I am able to.
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#4
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You said you had an angle grinder.
Do you have a sanding rubber pad to put sanding discs on it? If you do try using a 100 grit sanding disk and use almost half the pad to even it out. I wished I could show you how to do it. I use an angle grinder all the time and even glue 600 grit paper to a worn out disc.
You do not want to grind with the edge of the pad, but with the whole pad flat almost down to the nut that holds the pad on and move from side to side. Not up and down. Move from the ricasso to the point making sure to use a little less pressure at the point. If the guard is in the way take it off, you only need it for rock wheels that can blow apart. Wear face protection. I just don't know how to explain it to you better. Just make sure you do not grind a groove next to the ricasso, you'll have to finish that by hand. It takes practice, but on a budget it is a great way to grind a knife. I'm going to make a video for youtube to show how to do this. How do I do that btw? Last edited by jimmontg; 10-31-2016 at 09:35 PM. Reason: clarification |
#5
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I will be waiting for your video! I do not have a rubber sanding pad but I believe I know someone who would be able to spare an old one. Im sorry but I dont know how to make a youtube video, only how to watch them.
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#6
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Yes, plunge cuts are easier with a grinder, everything about grinding a blade is easier with a good 2x72. Even so, if you want plunge cuts even with a 2x72 it helps to have the file guides ...
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#7
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Kyle here is a file guide from Jantz supply to show you how it looks to make one.
http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/fg100.htm Ray's suggestion to make it out of O1 is a good one though I might temper it at 300 for an hour to make sure it doesn't up and crack apart on you if it is maximally hard it may break if you drop it. 300 degree temper would temper it just enough to keep it from being too brittle, but hard it still will be. Look at the letter drill bits to find a bit that is slightly bigger than your bolt. Such as a 3/8 or .375 bolt you would use a V sized drill bit which is .377. 5/16 or .312 you would use an O drill bit at .316, 1/4 or .250 you can use an f drill at .257 or 6.5 mm at .255 if you make your own. Trying to put a 1/4 inch bolt into a 1/4 inch hole isn't easy and sometimes not possible. Oh and be sure and tap the holes on the one side before heat treat. A drill guide is a great tool and is useful for other things. Sheffield Knife Supply sells them too. |
#8
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Nothing wrong with tempering at 300F if you want to. That's why I chose O1 though - I never tempered and it never cracked or snapped. It didn't seem like much of a risk to me since they are so simple to make.
Knowing how literal inexperienced people can be when given an example like Jim's explanation of how to decide on the drill size for a clearance hole - which was a good example - I want to point out the the actual sizes Jim mentioned are far larger than necessary. A 12-32 or even 10-32 screw was all mine ever needed. Larger would work but they just add weight and increase dimensions where it isn't needed ... |
#9
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I will make a guide with some of my left over bar stock. it may be a little thin but $50 is a pretty steep price to buy one.
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#10
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LOL! I just looked at that link. No wonder it cost $50, there's enough steel in that thing to build a car....
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#11
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Thank-you so much Jeremy! I will send you a pm.
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#12
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You are an awesome person!
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#13
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Thanks Jeremy!!
I just got your package today. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...w?usp=drivesdk |
Tags |
2x72, art, back, belts, blade, chef's, edge, file, files, flat, grind, grinder, guard, heat treat, how to, knife, knives, make, making, screw, screws, small, steel, supply, temper |
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