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#31
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Has anyone got suggestions for the etching solutions? Or do you just use solutions from where you get the stencil?
Bob Sigmon |
#32
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I've got quart bottles I bought from MM years ago that will last me
forever. I've heard that either Sheffield or Koval sells a smaller bottle of some red colored stuff that works really well. |
#33
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Mike,
Do you use different solutions for stainless vs carbon steel? Bob Sigmon |
#34
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I do, Bob, but that's 'cuz they came with the kit 20 years ago, and I haven't used a 1/4 pint of either after all this time.
They are called MSC1 and MSC4. Truth be told I could get by with the one for the carbon steel alone for any steel I've used, stainless or not. This stuff is nothing more than an electrolyte, meaning a salt dissolved in water. If we had someone works in an analytical lab, it would be nice to find out just what's in there. I feel pretty sure we could make our own easily enough. I just don't know what salts are in there. I've even been told that cola drinks work ok, but i've never tried that. I'll try to find out just which electrolyte is this red stuff people have mentioned and let you know soon. |
#35
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Mike,
As always, Thanks for the info. You are truly a wealth of knowledge! Bob Sigmon |
#36
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The red stuff i got is from sheffields, and is good for high carbon or stainless.
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#37
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Bob, thanks for the kind words. I really do appreciate it.
Steve, thanks for verifying the red stuff comes from Sheffield. Bob, they have several etching solutions. I'm not sure which one is red, but I'd say just ask. Sheffield has been my favorite supplier as long as I've been into the knifemaking. Good luck. If this will be your first foray into electroetching, feel free to e-mail me with any questions. There are some little caveats/ tips that make it work better. Also, keep an eye out for a cheapo jewelry sonic cleaner from a Big Lots or somewhere to clean your stencils. It really helps. We paid $19 for one. |
#38
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Mike,
I'm just getting ready to order some stencils and give it a go. I bought a unit from Ron Claiborne. It really looks like a top notch unit. I do have an ultrasonic cleaner from my clock repair. What type of solution do you use? (I wish that it was only $19). I'll give Sheffield's a call about the etching solution. Thanks again, Bob Sigmon |
#39
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I thought Bowie was supplying a bottle of solution along with his etchers??
Ah, you got one of the high-priced sonicators like we used in the lab I bet. Expensive little beatsies at >$400 sometimes. I use the soap that comes along with these cheapies. I think that any water-based surfactant will work to clean these stencils. The only caveat would be whatever doesn't foam in the sonicator. A couple drops of Calgonite would suffice, too, I bet, or even Woolite. Or, probably the same stuff that works for your watch parts. What you'll find is that after use there appears to be some metal oxide grit caught in the pores of the stencil. You can wash it out by rubbing, but that cuts down stencil lifetime. Sonicate for just 5 minutes and stroke lightly with a soft brush and it will come very clean. (Something like a soft toothbrush. It doesn't take much.) To be honest, on a higher dollar knife, I would consider using a stencil only a couple times and tossing it. Also, if yer making higher end knives, make sure and ask for the "high thread count" stencils. A nice crisp mark is mandatory to me on a pretty handmade knife. It would certainly suck to get all the way to the etching, try to milk lifetime out of a stencil, and trash a knife. Hope this helps. |
#40
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Mike,
I've been out of the game for a while and I got the unit just before all the sh... hit the fan. I have to check the drawer that I stashed the unit in. The bottle is probably there. I'll make up some cleaner special for the stencils. The stuff I use for the clock parts is relatively oily. I'm with you on over using the stencils. What's a few cents to ruin hundreds of dollars worth of work. Thanks for the advice on cleaning the stencils. Bob Sigmon |
#41
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You're welcome, Bob. I sincerely hope things are back to good in your life.
Let me know if you have any questions about doing the etching once you get the stencils. If you want a couple practice stencils left over from my testing, lemme know and I'll mail em to you the start of the week. Send address to fitzo1@ameritech.net. You can practice on some scrap first to get the feel for how many short strikes (2-5 seconds) and how much solution to use. Another trick I've heard in case Bowie used a brass electrode: it may verdigris a bit. If it does, clean and cover with aluminum foil and use that as the contact with the felt batting. Take care. |
#42
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Bob, I use straight Mr. Clean in my sonic cleaner. First I use the MSC1 electrolyte to clean the stencils after each use with a Q-tip then just drop them in the sonic cleaner filled with Mr. Clean and leave it till I'm ready to burn the next logo. I don't even turn the sonic cleaner on anymore. Then I just remove and rinse with water. I've had real good luck reusing my stencils many times before I have to replace them. The MSC1 electrolyte works good on all steels with my Ron Clairborne etcher. I get deep etches in all metals with this combo.
Ron Duncan Duncan Made Knives Cairo, MO |
#43
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Mike,
Thanks for the info on the etching. I'll be sure to watch what I'm doing. Ron, Good info. Your etches always look good on all your knives!! Bob Sigmon |
#44
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Guys thank you so much for all this great information, just brilliant.
Chhers Paul |
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blade, knife, knives |
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