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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#31
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I will use my file jig after I heat treat my blade and grind it to its final edge and try to fix the plunge.
I read up a little on decalescence and now understand the colors I see during HT a lot more. when I have been trying to overheat my steel, getting it an orangish yellow color, it is actually a spotty looking salmon color. I have noticed it looks unevenly heated but I think this is due to decalescence as when I heated a piece slightly hotter it was a very even color. I have gotten a couple pieces where the grains look really good to me. they are very fine and it breaks without bending at all. I am going to use this method from now on and quench it after it has been heated past a spotty salmon color and all of the shadows are gone in the steel. |
#32
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I heat treated a few more pieces and I think I have it down fairly well now. Grinding is a different story. I have improved some with my grinding but I am practicing on mild steel pieces as its still so bad I wouldn't want to ruin a piece of 1084 yet. Here are a couple pics of my latest attempt. My plunge lines are still completely different on each side.
Here are a couple pictures. You can't exactly tell from them but one side is a sweeping plunge line and the other is a jagged defined plunge. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...w?usp=drivesdk https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...w?usp=drivesdk Last edited by gkyle840; 11-21-2016 at 11:46 AM. |
#33
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That doesn't look nearly as bad to me as it seems to look to you. I'd say that you did a pretty good job of grinding.
Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#34
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thanks! its mainly the plunge line on the right side of the knife that is bad. you just cant really see it in the picture.
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#35
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Overall that grind looks about ten time better than what you posted at the beginning of this thread. Plunge lines can be difficult. For me it helps to rest my hands on the tool rest to steady everything. Beyond that, I'm getting better at just freehanding without need for the tool rest. Toward the end, I pay attention and try to even everything up. I still struggle with the plunge lines. It can look good on each side but looking at the little "V" , edge-on where they both come together is difficult to get exactly even. Sometimes I do, sometimes it's off a hair. Keep practicing...
__________________ Find me on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/gpopecustomknives/ Gloria In Excelsis Deo!! |
#36
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just got done doing a rough grind on a little knife and then heat treated it. it looks a lot better than the previous but the plunge lines are still off. they are angled differently but I am at least a little closer with them. I will post a pic later on today when its tempered.
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#37
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Here is my cutting device after it was tempered.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...w?usp=drivesdk |
#38
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Very good!
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#39
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Quote:
edit to add: I would suggest you drill your holes for handle pins or however you intend to attach scales BEFORE the HT process. __________________ Find me on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/gpopecustomknives/ Gloria In Excelsis Deo!! |
#40
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I have always drilled before in the past (one knife) but this time I was too excited about HT because I had done so well with the previous few attempts I think the heat treat went very well.
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#41
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Grind looks good too! You seem to be taming the Griz ...
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#42
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Thanks Ray! I will put up some pics when I get done with it.
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#43
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If you hardened the tang on that knife you could get some carbide bits to drill the pin holes. I usually drill after heat treating as I don't want the holes in the tang to become a stress riser.
BTW: That's a good looking knife. I would love to see it after the finished grind/sanding with a handle on it. Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#44
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ive ground 5 knives so far as well as some mild steel to experiment with. I purchased the bubble jig as well. for some reason I cannot get a flat grind or decent looking plunge lines. I have peaks and valleys in my blades as it seems I am not capable of holding the knife flat for a whole pass. the spine as well as the blade looks similar to bacon. I am usually able to correct the blade to get it somewhat straight and usually round out the spine some to hide it. one plunge is usually pretty swept and in a slightly different spot and the other is usually crisp. I am switching the belt to overlap on the side of the platen that I am grinding on trying to get gradual plunge lines. I am using the bubble jig as well as a jig for plunge lines I received from another member here. The fact that I cannot get a flat grind to be flat is really frustrating.
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#45
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I can only imagine that there's something about your technique that's keeping you from getting a flat grind. I, and others, have described our various processes for that many times over the years but in this case there might be a better way. I have a video that shows step by step how I get a full flat grind on a large chef's knife which, of course, would be the same process as for any smaller knife with a full flat grind. The way the video is done is about as close to standing next to me while I work as is possible, the next best thing to a visit to my shop. I don't like plunge cuts so I barely use them but if flat grinds are a problem for you then this would likely be the best $15 you ever spend on knife making ...
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Tags |
1084, angle, belt, blade, blades, brass, edge, first knife, grind, grinder, grinding, hammer, heat, heat treat, knife, make, metal, post, rod, sharp, tang, temper, throw, tiny, vise |
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