need assistance

[tkd-0331]

I'm a new member to the forums and just completed sanding and the assembly of a typhoon. I wondered if anyone could help me with a couple of problems.

1. I went a bit overboard filing the cups and the knife closes too far. Do you know of a fix? I thought perhaps if I used Liquid metal to fill in the cup and then re- file it might work.

2. Second question is that I used locktite on pivot screws as suggested. Gun oil on phos. washers for lube. I snugged down the screws so there wasn't any slop in the handles. Question is will the handles free up over time if if i work them? they move but not nearly as fluid as I would like. OR do I back the screws off to the handle tention I want and settle for a back forth motion in the handles?

Thankyou for your time.

[louie]

i can only help with the second part and yes you can loosen the screw a little until you get it to the way you want it and so it flips nice. Did you let the loctite set ? i'm sure the guys will help out with the first part and also welcome . how do you like the typhoon ?

[ExamonLyf]

Hiya TKD.., welcome

As Louie mentioned, it's fine to back off your snugness a little post LOC-TITE. In fact.., that has to be done many times on various knives to get the pivot adjustment just as you'd like it and free up the handles. It sounds to me like you tightened the screws too much if the handles don't swing free.

You may already know this (so just covering the bases), but it only takes a small amount of LOC-TITE to get the job done, and you should apply it with a tooth pick to the threads, just using a minimal amount.

On your filing problem, I can only give you my opinion.., and I think liquid metal sucks for this type use, especially in an area of continuous metal-to-metal impact.

I would give Daune a call at EDC Knives, and see if he has some spare handles to sell. I know he did for a while, but I'm not sure right now. Alex may also be able to help you out at Knife Kits, so I would try to get some new handles before attempting a patch-job.

It only takes a tiny bit of stock removal to get the fit correct, but you know that already now.

Let us know what you end up doing and how it turns out. If the knife still locks up perfectly in the open position, I'd just leave it latchless myself and use it that way.

[tkd-0331]

Thanks to louie and examon for the help. I appreciate it. I backed of the screws to my likeing and everything works well. I went to a local knife shop and looked at the butterflys they had for comparison, I was amazed at the lack of quality compared to the typhoon. Even an expensive COLD STEEL model seemed a bit sloppy like the screws were Waaaay too loose. So to answer louies question.. I'm very pleased with the typhoon.

Still working on a solution to the problem with the pin cups.

[ExamonLyf]

Originally Posted by tkd-0331

Thanks to louie and examon for the help. I appreciate it. Still working on a solution to the problem with the pin cups.

No problem tkd.., glad you like the Typhoon.

One other thing you may try, is to post the pin cup dilemma over on the "Kits" part of these Forums. Some of those guys are "Wizards" at doing these kits, and although most of them haven't done a bunch of Typhoons, a few have. Maybe they can think of an esthetically pleasing way to resolve that with minimal hassle.

Of course replacing the tangs pins themselves with a larger diameter is another solution, but I consider that a major project if you've never done it, and unless you can mill replacement pins yourself you'd have to outsource it which wouldn't be inexpensive.

You'd need some hefty tooling and press-fitting experience for that, but I would try asking those kits experts over there to see what they say.

[SharpByCoop]

What Pete said about refitting the pins was what I thought about the first time I saw your post. But... I never did it to know. Finding a larger diameter hardened pin (drill?) might be a toughy.

The handles are stainless. *Because* I have access to a TIG welder, if it was my project, I would build up the area and fill them in. Then start over. If your alternative is a replacement handle, then what do you have to lose? Do you know anyone who is a precision welder?

Coop

[ExamonLyf]

tkd.., there's a good solution (and thanks Coop)!

If you happen to know someone that can pull off what Coop suggests, that would be great. ~~> Also not very tough for a "Pro".

I do think the re-drilling, and pin replacement I mentioned is a workout in absense the proper indexing equipment, drillpress, etc.

Nice of you to chip in Coop ~~> appreciated!