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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making.

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  #1  
Old 12-12-2004, 03:17 PM
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SKIVIE SKIVIE is offline
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Forming a sheath.

Ok all you sheath experts.....Ive completed a pouch sheath (very basic). Now that its done Ive realized that it needs a little forming to the knife to accomplish two things 1. hold the knife a little better 2. stop it from dropping down as far as it is. The sheath is all sewn up and ready for coloring. Is it ok to put some moisture to it now to give it a small amount of form ? If so, which is better, water or Acetone ?

Thanks for any help,

Shane


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  #2  
Old 12-13-2004, 08:35 AM
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Robert Dark Robert Dark is offline
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Shane:

I am no expert by any means, however, I use warm water in a spray bottle. Don't soak the leather, just wet it enough to make it pliable. Lightly wet the entire surface or you might wind up with a water line stain.

Be sure to wrap your blade in saran wrap. Start moulding around the handle being careful not to let your fingernails dig into the leather.

I usually hang the moulded sheath, with the knife still in it, over a fan to speed drying.

Maybe somebody out there has a better way. Hope this helps.

Robert
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  #3  
Old 12-13-2004, 09:06 AM
RICK LOWE RICK LOWE is offline
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Forming a sheath

I shore don't qualify as an expert,but I bet when Chuck or Sandy get time, one of 'em will also answer. I used Chuck's tutorial " How to harden leather" and it really showed me how to accomplish what you're trying to do. Wetting and then leaving in refridgerater overnight, called casing, makes the forming work super. I use my fingers first and then go to very smooth antler tine to shape leather to the knife. Last part is drying. I have an inexpensive food dehydrater that puts out warm, moving air that hardens the leather very well. Just keep an eye on it so the sheath doesn't go beyond ''set" and into shrivel shape. Depending on size, it usually takes about 2 hrs. to get what you want. Noticed you say the sheath is ready for coloring, guess that means it is undyed. You probably want to dye before hardening. Most of the time you want to dye before sewing and shaping, but I bet you can still get this all done. Hope this is some help.
Rick
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Old 12-14-2004, 05:14 AM
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blgoode blgoode is offline
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I use High Carbon steel...that doesnt like to be left in water very much so I use acetone. Doesnt rust my blades but there may be a better way....


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Old 12-14-2004, 12:30 PM
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Chuck Burrows Chuck Burrows is offline
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Howdy Guys - I DO NOT recommend soaking in acetone or alcohol. There are others that do but in my experience in the long run you are damaging the leather - this experience is based on over 30 years of doing repairs as well as experimenting and getting feed back from customers, many who along with myself have used my sheaths in high demand harsh condition situations so take it for what it's worth.
Now alcohol and acetone are fine in small amounts such being used for deglazing but soaking/saturating the leather with ANY kind of harsh thinner leaches out most/all of the conditioning oils which are vital to the health and well being of leather.

Brian as someone who makes his own knives my recommendation - and the one I recommend to makers sending their knives to me, is finish the knife to about 90-95% and then build the sheath - leave that final finish to the very end after the sheath is built. There is nothing worse or harder on the nerves then when I get a high mirror polish knife in the shop - the least bit of "damage" to that finish and it's guaranteed I will hear about it.
Some folks will cover the blade with tape and or plastic and then coat it with something like WD40, although I prefer Ren Wax or a similar product. The problem with any wrap is you can never get as tight a fit as without so.....

BTW - when makers do plan on sending fully finished knives I inform them up front there is no 100% guarantee that scratches, minor discoloring (even on stainless) may not happen. It is better by far to lose a sale than to have somebody give you a bad name due to their own lack of fore thought.
Frankly in my not so humble opinion any knife that is to be carried/used should be finished to a degree commensurate with it's intended usage since usage is going to cause wear and tear - no ifs ands or buts - and we as makers need to inform/teach our customers that fact.


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The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses.
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Old 12-14-2004, 01:23 PM
Sandy Morrissey Sandy Morrissey is offline
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Amen to that, my friend!

Chuck speaks for me----and he does it so nicely! Not only do those harsh chemicals react harshly to dead skin (cowhide) but they react harshly to live skin (yours and mine) and the fumes are suicide! A penny's worth of caution will save many dollar's worth of cure! ---Sandy---


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Old 12-14-2004, 01:47 PM
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Chuck Burrows Chuck Burrows is offline
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Just a note -
When Sandy and myself speak it from over 90 years combined experience, Does this mean we no it all? Far from and I know I can speak for Sandy as well when I say that, BUT when we do speak with assurance it's because we've learned - the hard and usually expensive way - of what works and what doesn't.

Now IMO experimentation is NEVER useless and some (like me ) often have to see it to believe it - and no I'm not from Missouri - but over the years I have learned that sometimes I'm just re-inventing the wheel so I hope you take my words of advice in the spirit they're meant....


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The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses.
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Old 12-15-2004, 04:42 AM
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blgoode blgoode is offline
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Lets see if I am awake enough to reply

I am making full tang knives with glued on scales so I will finish my blade BEFORE glueing and shaping the handle. How can I wet form my 0-1 without wraping in saran wrap or rusting the blade? This is a step I havent figured out yet. A guy a while back said ..." oh come on, your not dunking the steel and leaving it in salt water..."
BUT in my experience 0-1 hates any water at all so I dont get it wet whatsoever without quickly drying the steel. Any hints on wetforming rust loving steels ?


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Old 12-20-2004, 05:18 PM
Sandy Morrissey Sandy Morrissey is offline
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Wet forming--don't make it difficult----

Brian, good friend---O-1 and other water hating steels are very easy to wet form and it is not necessary to cover the blades with saran wrap, masking tape or other such! Before you insert the knife into the sheath prepare your leather (Moderate dampening, NEVER SOAKING). You can do this prior to sewing your sheath with great success. Before inserting the knife, spray the blade with WD-40 or some other oil and then insert the knife and work the leather around the handle as tight as you can. Remove the knife carefully and do whatever you like to protect the blade. Now keep the sheath folded over and using spring clothes pins or spring clamps, clamp the edges of the sheath together and let dry. Clamp in the area where the stitch line will be so that you do not get unwanted embossing on the leather. The leather will not shrink or stretch while drying and as it is clamped front to back without the welt it will be a perfect fit when the welt is installed. Any fine tuning can be done after the sheath is sewn. There is no need to keep the blade in the damp sheath for over 10 minutes at the most as it does not need to remain in the sheath during the drying period-----Merry Christmas, young feller! ---Sandy---


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  #10  
Old 12-21-2004, 04:56 AM
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Thanks Sandy! Best Wishes to you and your family. Its Cold up there in those hills I bet!


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  #11  
Old 12-21-2004, 10:35 AM
Sandy Morrissey Sandy Morrissey is offline
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Cold enough! 8 degrees yesterday morning with snow and ice on the road. So much for the DEEP SOUTH! ---BRRR----Sandy


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  #12  
Old 12-22-2004, 04:46 AM
TxCop312 TxCop312 is offline
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I just wanted to let any interested parties know about a product I use on my duty weapon and knives. It is a hard paste wax that totally rust proofs my equipment. It polishes up nice too. http://www.bluewonder.us/BlueWonderArmadillo.html

I don't sell this product and I do not recieve any compensation for my recomendation. I do however believe in it as I have seen the results.
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  #13  
Old 12-22-2004, 01:21 PM
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Chuck Burrows Chuck Burrows is offline
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TxCop - thanks for the recommendation - I for one am always looking for the best of the best and there is no better test than than the day to day wear put on gear by a LEO!


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Wild Rose Trading Co - Handcrafted Knife Sheaths



The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses.
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  #14  
Old 12-22-2004, 02:12 PM
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SKIVIE SKIVIE is offline
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Thats good to know. I noticed they sell it at Sportsmans Warehouse so Ill go check it out. Our Cabela's doesnt open till Fall. Cant wait there.

Shane


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  #15  
Old 12-22-2004, 10:31 PM
TxCop312 TxCop312 is offline
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No problem guys. Our 870s are parkerized and develope a light coat of rust at the drop of a hat. I had to deploy one on a rainy night this past year. I am the officer who does the cleaning and was expecting to break it down and coat it with oil before returning it to the rack. The water beaded on the metal. I wiped it dry and returned it to the rack. The next day, there was NO rust. I treat them about once a month now. One thing to note, if the piece you are working on has any grooves or checkering, expect to remove the Armadillo with a tooth brush.
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