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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Yet Another New Guy...
Howdy everybody! Just dropping in with an introduction and a few (longwinded?) questions.
I'm new to knifemaking, of course, but I've got plenty of experience working with my hands (building RC model aircraft is my main hobby) and I've always had a natural aptitude for such things. I like knives and I like making things, so I figured I'd try combining the two... At the moment I'm thinking I'd like to start with a basic hunting knife for whitetails and coyotes, so after lots of revisions I've drawn up a design I think I like (pic attached). At the moment I'm planning to use 1/8" 440C for the blade and some colorful homemade micarta for the handle, but I might switch to wood for simplicity. Any major errors so far? Ok, next question. Grinder. I don't have anything in that department and buying a "good one" just isn't a financial option for me, so I'm planning to make a 2x72 from scratch. I've been doing lots of reading on the subject and I think I have it figured out for the most part. The wheels have me thinking a little, though - what's stopping me from using stripped unbeveled bicycle hubs as idlers (besides the awkward look)? They turn very smooth and true, they're plenty strong enough, and I have access to a warehouse full of them for free. Finally, I'm used to folders so I keep mentally brushing the sheath aspect under the rug. I really, really love the look of colorful linen micarta for handles, and if possible I'd like to make the sheath match the handle of the knife. I'm thinking about ways to do this. Could I simply make a wood sheath (~1/16" wood) with a thin leather or cloth lining and then epoxy the micarta to the outside? I'm fine with ditching the idea if it's just not practical, of course - you guys are the experts. I'm one of "the experts" on my model plane forums, so believe me when I say that I know exactly how I must sound to you Any and all input is greatly appreciated, and thanks in advance for your time! |
#2
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First of all welcome brother!!!!!! I myself am still a new guy!if you wanna go leather route I know they make leather dye in all colors and also kydex is a option and if you work rc plans ( built several myself a few years back) you should be plenty handy with a heat gun. Kydex comes in a rainbow of colors and simple to work. Fairly simple concept with the kydex. Heat it up fold it over the knife and apply pressure and the material will form to the knife and you get a nice click in secure fit. Rivet the sheath together and your good to go!!
As for your idea The best i can say is give it a try ! Although if you plan to carry it hunting alot i'm not sure thin wood Would hold up well. ( anybody feel free to prove me wrong lol) I cant help with the grinder as i have not built one yet! I like your design the only comment about it i have is maybe round the butt of the handle alittle more or it might be uncomfertable on the palm under hard use. Overall i like the design It reminds me of the classic " Sharp Finger" pattern. Hope you stay around a long time and have a blast making your knife and many more after it!!! Last edited by hondo76; 04-16-2013 at 10:21 PM. |
#3
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Thanks for the input!
I've been looking at examples of Kydex sheaths and I gotta say that I just don't really love how they look. There's something about the wide edges you end up with from the rivets that makes them look awkward in my opinion. Maybe smaller rivets could be used, though... I dunno. I think I'd have to sit down and mess with some materials to see what might or might not work - at the moment I'm in a dorm 2500 miles from all my "stuff" and I won't get home until May, so I have plenty of time to think and read up on the finer points. As long as I'm here, I might as well mention that I originally got started with all this because of a seven-dollar folder from Menards. I heat-treated, polished, and sharpened the cheesy original blade, but it's still a weird shape (icky concave-curved edge) and it still won't take a really nice edge. I'd like to make a new blade for it as well. I'm not too concerned with durability since I only really use it for cutting paper and food, so ideally I'd like it to take a very, very sharp edge. From what I've seen it looks like stainless steels probably aren't gonna get me there, but I've never really seen what "good" stainless can do so I don't know for sure (my concept of "super-sharp" is probably just "mehhh" to most of you, so maybe a less-sharp blade will suit me fine). |
#4
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What would be the speed and load rating on the bike hubs? Grinder idlers turn pretty fast, last thing you want is a ball bearing blowout at high speed about face high.
As long as the stainless steel you select is cutlery quality (440C being excellent blade steel), it's all about the heattreatment and edge geometry. With SS, if you don't have rather sophisticated heattreating equipment and good background knowledge in thermal cycling the chosen steel, you are most likely shooting in the dark. Suggest you read up in detail before proceeding. Sharp is sharp, dull is dull...and dull just makes a knife a poorly designed screwdriver that rarely works properly. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#5
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440C is great. You can send it to Texas Knifemakers and have it heat treated for about $5.
Don't know bicycle hubs but if that's what you have then go for it. You might have to create a crown on it (center of the wheel slightly higher than the rest of the surface). We usually do that with a few turns of electrical tape. If it doesn't work you can always buy an idler wheel. We try to avoid using the word 'impossible' on these forums. You want a Micarta sheath then find a way. I made one once by carving the Micarta same as you would carve wood. Good luck with that. I would redesign that handle. I don't know why, but that handle shape seems to appeal to first timers. I made several just like that *blush*. Give yourself something to hang on to .... |
#6
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Try a 4x36. 10x cheaper than building your own 2x72 and works just dandy with some ceramic belts from supergrit, and a little practice of course
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#7
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I'm back home and I'm digging deeper into this stuff.
I got the motor for my grinder out of a lawnmower. It's a brushed DC job (runs off AC through a rectifier circuit) rated at 4.0HP, a number I don't really agree with since the wall can only give me like 1800W. Regardless, the thing cuts thick wet grass with authority so I figure it should spin a belt against a blade without bogging down too badly. I've got the general design figured out and I'll probably get the thing all put together soon enough. I'll even show it off here if it works My net cash outlay so far has been zero, and I think I'll come in under thirty bucks total including a few belts. Blade steel... I think 440C is out for now just because the heat treatment looks trickier than I'm prepared for. 1095 is cheaper anyway, and heat treating it seems much easier. I've noticed that 1095 and 1084 appear to be commonly recommended for beginners, so I guess it makes sense to start there. It looks like New Jersey Steel Baron is probably my best bet for acquiring embryonic blades, so I suppose I'll snag some 1095 once my grinder is up and grinding. Assuming I'm not planning to become a full-time blade manufacturer, what's the minimum reasonable equipment I can get away with for heat-treating my blades? I'd like to avoid spending oodles on building a furnace that I might only end up using a couple times, but I'd very much like to do it myself rather than sending them out (even if my first few attempts truly suck). I've seen a lot of neat examples of ways to get metal very, very hot, but I'd prefer not to accidentally build a propane bomb in my backyard. |
#8
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As far as heat treating goes if your not using an oven that is controllable and your able to hold a temp with 20-30 degrees I would stay away from the high grade stainless steels, they preform best when a controlled ht is present. But you can do the high carbon steels in a 1 brick forge decently, that's how I started. There are hundreds of ideas on using propane and making a simple forge, a simple search will provide you more info than you probably care for.
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#9
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You might want to list your location as you might have a knifemaker just down the road
I'd recommend 1084 or 1080 Vs 1095. They are a pit easier to heat treat (Not saying that you cant do it rather your window for nailing the HT on 1095 is smaller Vs the 1084/0) You can heat treat in a coffee can forge w/ a benzomatic torch (JP-7 may be the model). I think its a bit more useful than the 1 brick forge. I build a 2 X 72 using this as a model - http://peu.net/mods/cuchillos/lijadora-grinder.pdf Good luck |
#10
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Welcome welcome! You'll love it here, and the wealth of information is astounding.
"I'd like to start with a basic hunting knife for whitetails and coyotes" I have to say though, I don't know how well that will work. Whitetails and Coyotes don't have thumbs, after all. |
Tags |
2x72, art, bee, blade, building, design, epoxy, forge, handle, hobby, homemade, hunting, hunting knife, knife, knifemaking, knives, kydex, leather, make, micarta, palm, scratch, sheath, simple, wood |
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