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Ed Caffrey's Workshop Talk to Ed Caffrey ... The Montana Bladesmith! Tips, tricks and more from an ABS Mastersmith.

 
 
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Old 10-08-2012, 04:49 PM
grant grant is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Helena, MT
Posts: 107
More cracked 5160

A while back I cracked some 5160 by cooling it off in water. Bad idea, I know that now. Switched to hydraulic oil.

That worked fine until yesterday. I went to cool the tip of a blade and tink, tink, tink. Cracked? I haven't cleaned it up to check yet, but I know that sound.

So there were a few different variables in play.

1. The old 5160 was from Admiral (I know, I know) and 1/4" x 1 1/4". The new stuff was from Aldo and 1/4" x 1".
2. I tried drawing the bevel down further than I had done before. I tried to be even in the number and force of the blows, but I noticed that the blows away from my body had drawn the bevel down less than the ones towards my body.
3. It was in the 20s the last few nights, so my oil was a tad cold. I don't think this was the issue, because I've forged blades in my shop at far below 0F.

So I really think it was stress from my uneven blows. What do you fine folks think?

As an aside, this batch of steel seems to move MUCH easier. I was using a slightly heavier hammer (one that Ed made) than usual. Maybe the split handle really is that noticeable.
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5160, back, bee, bevel, blade, cold, dies, easy, edge, fire, forge, forged, forging, hammer, hand, handle, hot, knife, made, steel, tips


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