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Ed Caffrey's Workshop Talk to Ed Caffrey ... The Montana Bladesmith! Tips, tricks and more from an ABS Mastersmith. |
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#1
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1095
Due to the lack of 1084 right now I've just ordered a bunch of 1095. Does it have any quirks v/s 1084 that would be helpful to know about. Thanks
Steve |
#2
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1095 vs 1084
You will find that the 1095 is a bit harder, more difficult to drill, even in an annealed state, and require a slightly higher tempering temperature to obtain the same working hardness. It may feel the same or even softer under the hammer though. It may well require a faster quench to harden fully. The lack of manganese gives a shorter "window" for hardening. 1095 seems to require a more precise temperature control to get the right hardness in tempering. It seems to be too hard, or too soft.
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#3
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Thanks for the reply. So I gather from your post that 1095 would benifit from a brine quench instead of warm oil?
I hate changing steels like this, does anyone know why no one has 1084 right now? Thanks Steve |
#4
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Steve, if you are looking for a quicker quench, try the water over oil method or a 3 count in warm oil and then into room temp water. I have been using 1095 for quite awhile and have not found the need of a faster quench, other than 140/160 degree oil.
Just my way of getting there. Ken (wwjd) __________________ Ken (wwjd) http://www.wacoknives.com "One Nation Under God" |
#5
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I use 1095 and quench in 125 degree transmission fluid with great results.
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#6
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Bob, do you still take the 1095 to non-magnetic before quenching?
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#7
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Quote:
May be a silly question, but. Have you tried Admiral Steel? They are who I get my 1084 from, but I haven't ordered any in a couple of months. Maybe it's only your local suppliers that aren't getting 1084???? __________________ Scott B. Jaqua http://www.hagersonforge.com http://hagerson.livejournal.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The most important right of all, is that of Free Speech. With out that, all your other rights will soon be taken away. So, I may disagree with what you say, but I will defend until death, your right to say it! |
#8
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Ok, just "spoke" to Tony over at Oso Forge. He say's he is not having any problems finding 1084.
Try: Pacific Machinery & Tool Steel Company 3445 NW Luzon Street Portland, OR 97210-1694 P (800) 547-1091 F (503) 226-7588 Or: Security Steel Supply Company 216 West Issert Drive Kankakee IL, 60901 (815)933-1721 or (800)222-5160 Fax815)933-1414 http://www.theramp.net/sssco/ Tony says' the online catalog states that 1084 is in stock in several sizes. __________________ Scott B. Jaqua http://www.hagersonforge.com http://hagerson.livejournal.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The most important right of all, is that of Free Speech. With out that, all your other rights will soon be taken away. So, I may disagree with what you say, but I will defend until death, your right to say it! Last edited by sjaqua; 03-20-2003 at 10:44 AM. |
#9
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I had trouble with 1095 when I first started using it. I love it now. I prefer 1084 but 1095 is great also.
I heat my oil and then heat the blade to non-magnetic, checking often. Once it is non-magnetic, it put it back to the heat and leave it ther for about 10-15 seconds while I take the lid off my quench tank and set it down. Then I quench. works like a champ. |
#10
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Bob Warner
what temp and how long are you tempering each? Do you know about what RC hardness you get? :confused:
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#11
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I temper my 1095 at 425 degrees for two hours. I am guessing that I am around 58-59 Rockwell. Not really sure and honestly do not really care. The knives stand up to the tests I put them through and that means more to me than a number. I do not heat and quench the entire knife. I differentially heat treat so only the cutting edge is hard, the rest is soft.
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#12
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Thanks for all the help!! You can read all the paperwork on heat treat but you just never know untill you try it or talk with someone that has. And since I waste enough steel allready.........
Scott thanks for the suppliers....I've been using Admiral and Sheiffelds and they are out...Admiral doesnt know when or If they are getting more. Steve |
#13
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1084 steel
i got my 1084 steel from Knife and Gun Supply:
http://www.knifeandgun.com/catalog/f...3_products.htm it was listed under the forge welding materials, i got the 3/16" and got 3 feet, i ordered it and some other stuff on a tuesday and had it friday, really quick shipping and low priced shipping, i think the shipping for everything was about $6 for 3 feet of steel, some kydex, a piece of micarta, and a container of satanite. edit: by the way i got this about 3 weeks ago. |
#14
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I Just got a batch of steel in from Kelly Cupples, I got 15N20, 1084, and 1095. (the 1095 grinds like butter by the way!)
I apologize for not having a contact number for him, but if somone can chime in here, he has some of the best prices around, and it includes shipping! Mike __________________ "I cherish the Hammer of Thor, but I praise the hand of God" |
#15
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I was under the impression that Admiral was replacing their 1084 with 1080 which, for all practical purposes, should respond almost identically to 1084 in the heat treat. Anyone have any knews as to this?
For that matter, why would 1095 respond differently than 1084, Admiral's website shows it having the same amount of manganese as 1084???:confused: __________________ Guy Thomas/Thomas Knives |
Tags |
blade, forge, knife, knives |
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