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#1
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First folder kit
Hello all, wanted to share a few pictures of my first folder kit, a 3 1/2" trapper finished with winewood handles. Didn't spend too much time polishing the internals of the knife, and a close inspection reveals that. That is one area I will be paying attention to next time. I like the 'no pin' look on the handle material, so I tried using a 2 part 2 ton epoxy to secure the slabs, we'll see how long they stick on there! May go ahead and pin the next pair of handles, that seems to be the norm...(obviously it works if everyone else is doing it, right).
One question I have, how much is enough when peening the pins?? I over-peened the pivot pin for the blades and now one blade is harder to open than the other. I know experience will tell, but for the next one I build I'm curious as to how much the pins should be peened. Generally speaking, lightly?, medium? I sure don't want a pin falling out after using it for a month. Thanks for your input, JLaw Last edited by JLaw; 02-20-2009 at 06:36 AM. Reason: Addition to text |
#2
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Nice job. Where did you get this kit? How was the quality?
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#3
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Nice looking knife! Epoxy nowdays is pretty amazing - i doubt you'll have any trouble with it. As for peenig the pins.... I learned a trick a while back that may help you. I take a few razor blades and cut a "U" shaped notch in them and stick them around the pivot pin on the topa and bottom of the balde when peening. When done peening just pull them out (probably with pliers) you should have just enough space to have a nice tight blade that doesn't stick. Hope that helps!
-Dave __________________ www.ruhligknives.com "The choice isn't between success and failure; it's between choosing risk and striving for greatness, or risking nothing and being certain of mediocrity." - Keith Ferrazi |
#4
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JLaw, I also questioned the strength of epoxy when I first started making knives, so I did a test with it on a 1/4 x 2 " length of 440c . I sand blasted the handle area, sprayed it with a powerful degreaser (Rototec, used for spray-welding) and glued on a 3/4" thick piece of sanded hard maple. After curing for a few days, I tried knocking it off. I hammered that thing until the wood shredded into splinters. The epoxy still wouldn't let go! Don't remember the name of it at the moment, but I got it from Brownells. it's used by gunsmiths. I've used others as well, with no problems. I'm sure it's all in the preparation.
As for pinning, I use the same method as Dave for the pivot pin. I peen it till the razor blade is slightly "snug", remove it, then tap till I feel no sloppiness in the blade movement. __________________ Wayne |
#5
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Charlie, I got the kit from Texas Knifemaker Supply, but have seen the kit available through most knifemaker supply shops. The quality is good, not sure if the blades are 440C or some other flavor of stainless, I'll try to find out from them. The kit assembles easy, good way for me to learn the mechanics of a folder. I've got a few 4 1/8" trapper kits on order now. Here's a link to the TKS site for the 3 1/2" folder...http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/produ...roducts_id=663
Thanks to both of you for your advice on using the razor as a peening 'guide', I'll give that a try on the next one. Good advice. JLaw |
#6
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JLaw--thanks for the info--I may give one a try. Charlie
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blade, knife, knives |
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