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Tool Time Let's talk shop. Equipment, Tips & Tricks, Safety issues - Post it here. |
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#1
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roller mill?
Would a hoist motor assembly like this work for a roller mill power source?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44006 |
#2
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I looked into those originally too, but I don't think that there's enough torque there for what I need my future mill to do. The McDonald Mill puts out over 2000 lbs of torque as designed (stated on the anvilfire website), So I got a gear reducer off ebay that puts out 3000LBS of torque with 1.5hp input.
You might be okay with less torque, though, I'm not sure. Does anybody know what torque output the Kayne and Son rolling mill gear reducer put out? I think that raw power is going to be the most desireable thing in a rolling mill. Check out http://www.youngssurplus.com/gearboxes.htm item number 11003 Might be what you need. |
#3
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mill
Hi Joe
I just got the plans for the mill myself and I'm also looking for a gearbox.. - thanks for the website... but I think the ratio on that one is 150:1 - that maybe too slow for the rolls.... maybe you'd have to adjust the imput speed abit faster ? any ideas? thanks Greg |
#4
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The target speed for 2 inch rollers is 20 to 25 RPM for me, So I got a gearbox that drops my 3450 input to a clocked 21RPM.
A feed of around 14 feet/ minute seems to be the ideal from what I've heard from everyone building the mills. The feed rate could be changed by using different diameter chain sprockets on the output shaft of the gear box and drive roller. |
#5
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I was thinking of gearing one of these down 2:1 to drop the speed down to ~14 ft/min. This should jack the capacity up to about 1600 lbs. 3000 lbs @2" seems like an awful lot to squish hot metal. I don't do 2" x 2" billets, so I don't know that I would need the extra. Anyone ever looked into just how little you could get by with and still easily squeeze a 1" x 1" billet (or any other size for that matter)?
Then again...if I have a mill capable of squeezing the larger billets...I'll need a bigger forge, and more metal, and a bigger shop, and.... |
#6
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The mill is another thing where bigger is better. If you have more capacity, you don't need to use it, but it's there if ya do. It also makes the smaller stuff seem a bit easier.
I made my first mill with a gearbox, and forgot to pay attention to the rated output. It was a lot less than it should have been. I switched it out with the pulleys and what not and it worked a whole lot better. Jamie __________________ Jamie Boley Polar Bear Forge - Custom Blades www.polarbearforge.com jamie@polarbearforge.com |
#7
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gearbox
Hi Jamie
concidering the options...I think the gearbox would be the simplest to build. - what (in your opinion) is an adequate gearbox and what should I look for interms of output? does anyone have a source for these ? thanks Greg |
#8
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The link that Joe posted has some good gearboxes and good prices. I wouldn't go with any rated output less than 2000 in/pounds of torque, go more. Anything less and it will stall on ya.
One thing also to keep in mind, make sure that you don't block the back of the mill when you mount the thing in back. Make sure it's low enough that a longer piece can be fed through. Jamie __________________ Jamie Boley Polar Bear Forge - Custom Blades www.polarbearforge.com jamie@polarbearforge.com |
#9
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Hi
I built a mill similar to Kaye & sons. If you search at the bottom of the tool time page using rolling mill, you can see my prior post with picture. I feel the gear box is easier to design and safer to use. I used a 30:1 gear reducer and belt drive it at about 2:1. I also use a hydraulic jack to close the rollers. It works quite well, and again was easier to design. Brian |
#10
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I really like the simplicity of your design, Brian. I've got mine all worked out in my head now, but i'll be closing the rollers like yours. I don't like the foot pedal/lever design on the Hugh McDonald plans at all.
How much do you have to lower the jack to get the billet through for the second pass? Do you think that heavy spring returns (and some adjustable stop pins to limit the amount of drop of the roller) would speed things up? Do you get much roller slippage after getting some experience with your rolling mill? Minimizing roller slips is about the only advantage of the closing foot pedal I can see. |
#11
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I like the foot pedal/ lever design myself for a couple reasons. Let's say you take too bit of a bite, I just let up on the pedal. Let's say that I slipped and the billet is crooked, I just let up on the pedal. Let's say I want to make one last quick pass on the billet, I pull the handle towards me a bit and step on the pedal.
I've worked with and seen a few other rolling mills similar in design, and I still think it's the best solution. I guess there is one thing that I would change on Hugh's plans. I would have made it taller, evidently he's shorter than I am! Jamie __________________ Jamie Boley Polar Bear Forge - Custom Blades www.polarbearforge.com jamie@polarbearforge.com |
#12
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milling about
Hi all
here's the thread with Brians mill.. http://www.ckdforums.com/showthread....threadid=14855 I'll have to say that it looks much simpler design.. ....at the moment i"m doing all the coversion on the plans for metric to imp ....yesssssh.. think I could use some simplicity right about now... now its just a matter of finding the perfect gear box and I'm all set to begin piecing this together.... (hopefully a cost effective box) thanks for the advice Jamie..... I'll definitely want more than 2000 inch/lbs now... Greg |
#13
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Joe
My bottom roller assembly is heavy enough to drop without the need of springs. I don't have problems with slippage if I watch what I am doing. I was thinking about connecting a lever to the needle valve on the jack and linking this lever to a foot pedal so I can open the rollers more easily. I only open the rollers enough to get the billet in for the next pass. Brian |
#14
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I need to make one of these.
More toys for big boys, I love it! |
#15
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Gene,
I have some old roller dies from a set of slip rollers as well as some 2" round stock in 4140. If want some for rollers and you have a lathe to turn them down, I'll bring a section of it to you at the SOS show. |
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