Checkering files ?

[Kevster]

Im thinking I want to try this on a knife, what do I need to know about them before I buy one?

Size, are there different patterns, what's a good brand etc?

[Ray Rogers]

You need to know they are expensive and only come in one pattern and 3 sizes. You want the 20 lpi size. You need to know that you don't want to use one on hardened steel (it works but ruins the file quickly - did I mention' expensive'). Grobet is the most common brand and very high quality ..

[Kevster]

Thanks Ray, I've been googling them and yes, they are expensive. I'll check out grobet.

[Fulmaduro]

I just bought one from Brownell's when I was passing through Iowa last month. 20 lpi, made by Grobet. My first attempt the lines were not straight. Tried to make a jimped spine above the ricasso of one knife. Next time I will attach my carbide filing guide to the ricasso to ensure the lines are started straight. Make sure to only cut while pushing, then lift the file out of the grooves and do it all over again till you get the results you want. Shop around, you might get a better price at Midway or somewhere else.

Tony Z
Kansas City, MO

[Ray Rogers]

Try this: clamp your blade in a vise. Sit at the vise so that when you place the file in the blade it naturally sits at 90 degrees to the blade. File lightly across the entire area you want to file, just deep enough to make a scratch that the file will sit in without slipping. Overlap the last groove or two as you move the file along. When you have gone as far as you want to go, start over and file deeper this time. Repeat as needed. No need for file guides as this method has enough flex in it that you can straighten the grooves a little as you go.

The one thing you do NOT want to do is file the grooves to full depth before moving to the next section. Very hard to get good results that way...

[Ray Rogers]

Try this: clamp your blade in a vise. Sit at the vise so that when you place the file on the blade it naturally sits at 90 degrees to the blade. File lightly across the entire area you want to file, just deep enough to make a scratch that the file will sit in without slipping. Overlap the last groove or two as you move the file along. When you have gone as far as you want to go, start over and file deeper this time. Repeat as needed. No need for file guides as this method has enough flex in it that you can straighten the grooves a little as you go.

The one thing you do NOT want to do is file the grooves to full depth before moving to the next section. Very hard to get good results that way...

[Walt-]

The only thing I would add to this is to mark each side of the file on the handle such as 1, 2 A, B ...whatever. If you start with side 1 for example continue to use side 1 until the jimping is done.

[Kevster]

Thanks guys, to start could you not just set the blade in a vice with the top just below the vise and have the checkering come out good? Just asking since I've never tried. Or is the file rounded on the edge?

[Kevster]

Also where's the best place to order them from?

[Ray Rogers]

I'm not sure what placing the blade top below the vise is supposed to accomplish. Don't try to solve a problem before you actually have a problem. Clamping the blade in the file with the back of the blade above the jaws will work just fine if you follow my instructions about getting yourself placed in front of the vise correctly.

I don't know who has the best price on them at the moment. Check with Jantz, USA Knifemakers, and maybe Brownells.

Technically, you're only jimping the blade. If you really want to do checkering you first do the jimping as described earlier. Then, set the file across the jimping at about 45 degrees and repeat the process. This will create the tiny needle sharp diamond points you see on the front straps of some customized pistols ...

[Kevster]

Originally Posted by Ray Rogers

I'm not sure what placing the blade top below the vise is supposed to accomplish. Don't try to solve a problem before you actually have a problem. Clamping the blade in the file with the back of the blade above the jaws will work just fine if you follow my instructions about getting yourself placed in front of the vise correctly.

I don't know who has the best price on them at the moment. Check with Jantz, USA Knifemakers, and maybe Brownells.

Technically, you're only jimping the blade. If you really want to do checkering you first do the jimping as described earlier. Then, set the file across the jimping at about 45 degrees and repeat the process. This will create the tiny needle sharp diamond points you see on the front straps of some customized pistols ...

Thanks for clarifying Ray, yep it's jimping that I'm wanting to do. Duh! Lol!

[Kevster]

Do any of y'all have any pics of your jimping?

[Ray Rogers]

You might also notice that the thumb stud is checkered...

[Crex]

If you have a decent vise with squared and even sides on the jaws, you can use the side of the vise jaws for your initial filing guide to keep things square to the blade. Just use "safed" jaws (aluminum angle or bent copper flashing to protect the blade). Clamp the blade parallel to the top of the vise jaws and perpendicular to the edge of the jaws, but about 1/4" lower than the top surface of the jaws. Start your first run with the edge of the file up against the side of the vise. Couple of light strokes will set deep enough to align the next pass further out on the blade. As Ray said don't go deep in the first section, do it gradually all along the pattern section until you get the depth you want.

NEVER! - NEVER! - NEVER! Draw the file backward, use on hardened steel, or toss in a drawer to bump around with other files.

[BCROB]

Originally Posted by Kevster

Do any of y'all have any pics of your jimping?

a recent one............I bought a couple from Jantz , prefer the 20 lpi