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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Using Satanite for Hamons
Has anyone used satanite refractory mortar to bring the hamon out on knife blades?
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#2
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Of course, probably most anyone who has tried clay tempering. If you do it right it works quite well...
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#3
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I have limited experience in clay coating for differential hardening. I find Rutlands cement products, such as furnace patch, holds to the surface of the steel better. However, others have gotten Satanite to work and I might have if I had stuck with it.
Let me observe that Satanite might be a little easier to come by down in Greensboro than furnace patch. Even here in Illinois I had to order a case of it the last time I got some. If I drove around I could have probably found some on a shelf somewhere. I just figured that it didn't have an expiration date on it and it wasn't all that expensive for 12 tubs. Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#4
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Ellis used to sell Satanite in 5 lb jars, maybe the new owner still does. I've used it for clay coating but I've also used furnace cement and, generally, I find it works as well and is easier to use. In this area, I can buy a tiny tub of furnace cement at the hardware store and that's enough for more knives than I'm likely to make that way...
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#5
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Yes, I think that your right about Wayne carrying Satanite in small bags. Also that stuff Bob Egnath(sp) used to like that comes premixed. It too is a mortar, I just don't remember what it called. Just go to High Temperature Tools and Refractory and check.
Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#6
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Satanite mixed with about 25% dry wood ash is what I use most often. I used to use Rutlands furnace cement, and it worked perfectly fine, but the satanite ended up being more economical for me.
The wood ash isn't needed but I seem to get slightly better adhesion with it, and it lowers the cost per knife since ash is free. (edit: by "dry wood ash" I meant I mix dry wood ash with dry satanite, about 25% by volume.) Last edited by AUBE; 11-16-2012 at 04:40 AM. |
#7
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I do pretty much the same as AUBE, mixing a bit of ash with the satanite. Smooths up the paste a little.
Use satanite, because I always seem to have plenty on hand and it works just fine for me. Had a little trouble with the furnace paste found here locally (Ace) coming off in the forge as the blade came up to heat (probably didn't let it dry long enough prior....operator error most likely). Bigger issue is the steel you hope to produce the hammon on. Simple hi-carbs like 1080, 1095, and W's tend to produce the best H's. Other alloyed steels not so much. Heat control for the quench is important as well.... you are heating a bit of extra material with the clay coating and that requires more attention to soak time prior to quench. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#8
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I've used satinite for years. It has always worked well for me.
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Tags |
1095, bee, blade, cold, forge, hamon, hand, hardware, hot, knife, knives, make, material, outdoor, products, simple, steel, store, surface, tiny, tools, wood |
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