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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 06-24-2016, 06:30 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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grind line

ok guys i am wondering if anyone that is good at this has any technique or tips they can share so in the picture below (quick drawing i know i am horible) but anyway the drawing on the top is what i am trying to get nice flat grind line out to the tip but i end up getting something like the bottom drawing...well at first anyway so it makes sense in my head that if as you get to the tip you dont put as much pressusre on the tip that line should stay straight but it doesnt i did get a little closer today but it ended up get all swirly and looking absoluty horible any tips would be appreciated
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  #2  
Old 06-24-2016, 06:52 PM
jmccustomknives jmccustomknives is offline
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Think, distal taper.
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  #3  
Old 06-24-2016, 08:53 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Both ways are common ways to do the grind. But, if you want the line straight then don't let your subconscious cause you to drop the handle down as you get to the tip - if you follow the curve in the profile the grind line will be curved. In other words, if you want the line to be straight then only move the knife straight across the belt....


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  #4  
Old 06-25-2016, 09:09 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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never tried a distal taper maybe i should try, as far as keeping the knife straight what do you do when you get to the tip because the tip is "shorter" than the rest of the blade so if you push the tip in (not turning it up just keeping pressure on it) it turns out very similar to what would happen if you did turn it up and if you dont put pressure on it then the line should stay straight but you end up with a very thick edge on the tip compared to the belly...thats where i mess it up trying to blend it togather and thin out the edge on the tip maybe the distal taper solves that?
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  #5  
Old 06-25-2016, 09:15 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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The distal taper might help you with that but mostly its practice.If you want the line straight you have to move the blade in a straight line. If the tip is too thick the rotate the blade slightly towards the edge as you come to the tip while keeping the blade moving in a straight line. Practice ....


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  #6  
Old 06-25-2016, 09:30 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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ok ray i had read your post and was thinking you ment push the tip in and handle out kinda thing.....i was litterly about to walk out the door and the lightbulb went off in my head! lol did you mean rotate it the other way so the angle of the bevel gets slightly steeper at the tip? i can see how that would work guess i took it the wrong way before...
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  #7  
Old 06-25-2016, 11:36 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Great advice Ray
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  #8  
Old 07-01-2016, 07:32 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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i was going to make a new post but its kinda on this topic....i got a order from usa knife maker today and i had ordered there "graphite canvas" ( http://usaknifemaker.com/knife-makin...n-fighter.html) to me the pic looked like it was thin kinda like a sticker its not its kinda thick and squishy maybe like putting a piece of felt over your platten i remember ray saying something a long time ago (looked in the old thread couldnt find it) about putting a piece of leather on the platten and i think it cushioned the blade and did some thing to the grind???? has any one used it does it effect the grinding at all? its so squishy i am really debating putting it on the platten
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  #9  
Old 07-01-2016, 10:38 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I used the graphite, didn't hold up very well. I do have one platen with leather on it that I use when shaping handles, not for grinding steel ...


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  #10  
Old 07-14-2016, 03:10 AM
Waters Knives Waters Knives is offline
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Are you free handing or using a grinding jig? It shouldn't be too difficult to accomplish that grind with a grinding jig. As for technique you may know this already, but I find it easier to move my whole body when grinding and keep my arms steady. I kind of rock my
Back and forth with my knees. Also I kind of role the knife off the grinder when I get to the tip/belly. I don't know if that makes any sense. It's hard to explain without being able to demonstrate. Practice on mild steel from Home Depot first, and if you have any questions about grinding jigs just search them on YouTube. I could post some picks of mine if needed.
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  #11  
Old 07-14-2016, 03:16 AM
Waters Knives Waters Knives is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtec1 View Post
i was going to make a new post but its kinda on this topic....i got a order from usa knife maker today and i had ordered there "graphite canvas" ( http://usaknifemaker.com/knife-makin...n-fighter.html) to me the pic looked like it was thin kinda like a sticker its not its kinda thick and squishy maybe like putting a piece of felt over your platten i remember ray saying something a long time ago (looked in the old thread couldnt find it) about putting a piece of leather on the platten and i think it cushioned the blade and did some thing to the grind???? has any one used it does it effect the grinding at all? its so squishy i am really debating putting it on the platten

Softer materials like leather or graphite are good for convex grinding but make flat grinding difficult. If you want flat go Ceramic glass or Hardend Steel. I got some ceramic glass, and it's lasted a year with hardly any wear and produces fantastic grinds.
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  #12  
Old 07-14-2016, 10:56 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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thanks guys WATERS........so as far as the graphite goes its not so mushy any more it was when i put it on but once you start grinding on it it gets compressed into a very slick surface (wich i assume is what it is supposed to do) i can actually see a noticeable difference in the heating of the steel and also as i change belts and grab the platen to pull out for tension the platen is not as hot. now its not a HUGE difference but for $3 and change i didnt expect that much. as far as grinding steel besides the little bit of heat reduction no difference however on tuesday i was finishing the grind on a handle and i noticed i couldn't get it completely flat what i think is happening is since there is a lil bit of cushioning even as little as it is it gives the pins a place to sink in a little because you can tell the pins were not being ground as much as the handle material and in the area of the pins there is a slight bump not enough to see but if you run your finger across it you can feel it but i was also using a new handle material ( DYMALUX http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=40_824 ) so maybe that played a role too by the way besides the bumps by the pins i really do like the look of the handle material ill get some pics up soon once i finish 2 more knives...bottom line next time i order some stuff i think i may order a piece of glass to put on the platen and try that out.

A far as grinding goes i used to use a home made jig (the design you can make from a piece of angle iron) i dont use that one any more i had got the bubble jig a while back and love it its great because not only can you do very accurate grinds but you also have the freedom of almost freehand grinding if you want. now i use that to first "set" the bevel then once i get that flat i can see and feel i do it freehand mostly and the piece that holds the blade doubles as a guard to get the plunge lines straight and even it really is a awesome tool definitely worth the money.......as far a hollow grinding that has been MUCH harder than flat grinding for me i tried freehand and tried and tried and tried...then got a jig same thing with that i am just getting comfortable where i use the jig with the first grit then do freehand for the finishing belts...as i said hollow has been very hard for me to learn and i still got a LONG way to go before i feel comfortable free handing a hollow grind
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  #13  
Old 07-15-2016, 12:51 AM
Waters Knives Waters Knives is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtec1 View Post
thanks guys WATERS........so as far as the graphite goes its not so mushy any more it was when i put it on but once you start grinding on it it gets compressed into a very slick surface (wich i assume is what it is supposed to do) i can actually see a noticeable difference in the heating of the steel and also as i change belts and grab the platen to pull out for tension the platen is not as hot. now its not a HUGE difference but for $3 and change i didnt expect that much. as far as grinding steel besides the little bit of heat reduction no difference however on tuesday i was finishing the grind on a handle and i noticed i couldn't get it completely flat what i think is happening is since there is a lil bit of cushioning even as little as it is it gives the pins a place to sink in a little because you can tell the pins were not being ground as much as the handle material and in the area of the pins there is a slight bump not enough to see but if you run your finger across it you can feel it but i was also using a new handle material ( DYMALUX http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=40_824 ) so maybe that played a role too by the way besides the bumps by the pins i really do like the look of the handle material ill get some pics up soon once i finish 2 more knives...bottom line next time i order some stuff i think i may order a piece of glass to put on the platen and try that out.

A far as grinding goes i used to use a home made jig (the design you can make from a piece of angle iron) i dont use that one any more i had got the bubble jig a while back and love it its great because not only can you do very accurate grinds but you also have the freedom of almost freehand grinding if you want. now i use that to first "set" the bevel then once i get that flat i can see and feel i do it freehand mostly and the piece that holds the blade doubles as a guard to get the plunge lines straight and even it really is a awesome tool definitely worth the money.......as far a hollow grinding that has been MUCH harder than flat grinding for me i tried freehand and tried and tried and tried...then got a jig same thing with that i am just getting comfortable where i use the jig with the first grit then do freehand for the finishing belts...as i said hollow has been very hard for me to learn and i still got a LONG way to go before i feel comfortable free handing a hollow grind
Yeah, I've considered getting the bubble jig. I'm really trying to get my free hand grinds down so I don't have to worry about setting up the jig and getting the work table angled perfectly. I'm having difficulty with my plunge cuts without the jigs. Maybe I'll invest in the bubble jig. As far a hollow grinding I really don't know of any way to do it without a large contact wheel. You basically use the wheel as your platen.

Here's an example of a good hollow grinding setup
http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/sh...aspx?itemid=61
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  #14  
Old 08-26-2016, 03:02 PM
Sabrerider Sabrerider is offline
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Don't think you can get there from here

Maybe I am misunderstanding you but if you are trying to get your grid line flat like the first drawing, the tip will never be sharp. It will be at whatever thicknesses the steel is at the top of your grind. Picture a cross section of the grind the out to the tip.
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  #15  
Old 08-26-2016, 04:17 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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it can be done...this is a older thread I have figured it out since then combination of a taper and changing the angle of the grind as you get toward the tip....tip is deffinitly sharp
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