knife scale question

[SKEELSarms]

So ive made a few handles for my knife blanks and they look pretty good bit still have some questions. 1st one being about stabilizing. Is it better to have them stabilized before i start shapong or does it matter? Can they be stabilized after they are shaped? And 2nd, whats a good length for the pins that are bein staked? For example, if the total width is 1 inch... How long should the pins be? And does material matter? If so im using brass. Hopefully ill be able to get some pics this weekend

[Ray Rogers]

Wood can be stabilized after it is shaped but that usually results in a set of ruined scales. The stabilizing process uses very high pressure and most any piece of wood will warp. So, you stabilize blocks of wood, then cut scales from it if you want scales.

The material does matter, very much so. Brass is about as easy as it gets. You need to practice to see how long the pins need to be. They start out just a little longer than the thickness but when you pound on one end and then turn the knife over you discover there's no extra length on that side. That doesn't mean the pin was too short, it means you banged on it too much - that's why I said practice is the only answer that will really do you any good. Try some scrap wood on a steel bar until you figure it out.

Personally, I hate pins, never use 'em, unless they style of knife demands pins (like a Price dagger). Loveless bolts (or Corby if you prefer) are much easier and hold better....

[Doug Lester]

Make the pins about 1/16" longer than the handle is thick. Alternate sides to get them started if you want to peen them. Personally I don't bother. They're just there mostly to reinforce the glue and what's going to make it give is going to be a shearing force and unpeened pins will do that. If the handle is going to be subjected to a lot of stress or a humid environment then cutler's rivets, Loveless or Corby bolts will keep the scales on.

Doug

[SKEELSarms]

Awesome. I been thinkin about the bolt deal but i kinda like the look of the pins. I was figurin about a 16th pr a little more was good... And has been workin pretty good for me so far. I still got some practice i gotta do to get them right when the blade has a finger guard... Or whatever u would call it. Other than that i yave a couple blades ill try to post in the mornin that ive got done.

As far as stabilozing, most of the scales i have all teady uave been stabilized, just a few pieces arent. Thats exactly why i asked though, some of the pieces i have i could ruin and not care, others... Id be so sad lol. Some that i yave i all most want to just put on the wall and leave there theyre so pretty.

Again guys, thanks for the help.

[Doug Lester]

Actually once you get the bolts or rivets set properly it's hard to tell them from larger solid pins. Jantz Knife Supply sells step bits for drilling the handle scales. I suggest that you get a Jantz catalog or at least go to their online store. They list which bit you will need for what rivet or bolt. The exception to this would be the bolts that have have the threaded shaft that passes through a round nut. Some people like the bull's eye effect that it gives and some don't.

Doug