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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Maple Skinner Scandi Grind
Here's a small Scandi Grind Maple Skinner I made in the the last few weeks.The blade is made from an old cross-cut saw. The overall size of this Knife is 7 1/2"
The handle is 4 1/4"....Thanks for Looking!! Frank __________________ ?Happiness... it lies in the joy of achievement, in the thrill of creative effort.? Franklin D. Roosevelt |
#2
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Nice work Frank! Interesting design--the edge doesn't generally follow the line of the handle, yet doesn't have a lot of belly/curve either.
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#3
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Some of my first blades were made from the steel of a two man saw. It's good carbon steel, it will hold an edge and it's not hard to bring it back to a razor sharp edge on a stone, when it dulls down!
Did you HT? I was told my another experienced maker that if I didn't get it too hot when working it, it would not be necessary to heat treat! The steel would be just about as hard as it could be got with a HT! I had to wrap the blades in a wet rag to stop heat transfer and spot anneal to be able to be able to drill the steel for handles and such! Nice looking knife, the design should work out well as a skinner and a flesher! __________________ C Craft Customs With every custom knife I build I try to accomplish three things. I want that knife to look so good you just have to pick it up, feel so good in your hand you can't wait to try it, and once you use it, you never want to put it down ! If I capture those three factors in each knife I build, I am assured the knife will become a piece that is used and treasured by its owner! C Craft |
#4
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Yes, the man who talked to you was right that if you don't get the steel too hot while cuting or grinding, at least not over about 300 degrees, you will not change the temper on the steel. But first of all you will need to know what the starting hardness is and if that is the hardness you want for the optimal hardness for the knife that you are making. If the hardness in the steel is not what you want you will have to retemper the blade if it is too hard or reharden and temper if it is too soft.
Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#5
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Nice work, Frank. I love the grain in the maple. I owe a skinner to a guy who gave me a box full of deer antlers, and I'm tempted to use one of your designs - seeing as I don't have a clue what to look for in a skinner, and yours always look so amazing. I offered another kind, but he's stuck on getting a skinner.
__________________ Chris K. Two Mountains Forge Delta, BC, Canada www.twomountainsforge.com |
#6
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In skinning a Animal, you use the tip of the Knife, as much as the widest part of the blade.
__________________ ?Happiness... it lies in the joy of achievement, in the thrill of creative effort.? Franklin D. Roosevelt |
#7
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>>Did you HT?
I was told my another experienced maker that if I didn't get it too hot when working it, it would not be necessary to heat treat! The steel would be just about as hard as it could be got with a HT! << As with all tools, not all are created equal.... If it's your personal knife, you are the only one that needs to be happy with it. However, if you sell or gift the knife you should be more concerned with the actual integrity of the heat treatment which greatly influences the performance. One "Bad Blade" comment will far out weigh 1000 "Great Blades", when it comes to your reputation as a knife maker. It's a big risk yet so simple to avoid. I recommend, on unverified steels (mystery steels if you will), to always do one or two test blades - as you would the blade you intend to finish for use - whether you choose to heat treat or not. Test these hard and at least one to destruction. You still will not know for sure what steel you have but at least you will know it's suitability. You can then adjust thermal cycling if needed before putting all that work into a finished knife that goes out the door. While traditionally most crosscut saw and large circular saw blades were/are considered old school high grade hi-carb steel, not all are. There have been and are too many mfgr's out there. I have discovered several - with no discernable markings - to be of not so great quality steel, definitely not responsive to standard thermal cyclings know for most forgable hi-carb steels. This was not obvious without testing. Could have been a big OOPS had I not. CC - not picking at you, but even the best quality saw blades are not left in High Hard condition. All are tempered drawn back down to a lower hardness (relatively speaking). Otherwise they would shatter or break on impact or flex. The big circ's have to be tempered for balance, as when they ramp up they go through stages of harmonic changes warping or dishing until they reach harmonic balance at cutting speed. The cross cuts - aka misery whips & gator backs - are in pretty much the same boat, in that they have to be able to flex as they are being pulled through the wood or they too would break. Please do not misunderstand, lot of really fine old saw blade material out there and I use quite a lot of it. However, I test every saw blade I cut up for knife blade material and re-heattreat the blades to my standards.....no exceptions. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#8
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I would have to 2nd this........
__________________ R.Watson B.C. Canada |
#9
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I like it. I have some maple glued up right now too. One of my favorites to work with. How did you finish the handle?
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#10
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Nice knife.
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Tags |
back, bee, blade, blades, choose, design, edge, handle, heat, heat treat, heat treatment, hot, image, knife, maple, material, sell, simple, skinning, steel, stone, tools, warping, wood |
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