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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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what do you guys think of 1095?
I feel like I'm getting the hang of this knife making deal, no expert by any means but I'd like to start turning them out in number to get some repetition in, but still be able to get rid of them after I'm done, not just throw them in a drawer somewhere. I'd like a cheaper steel I can heat treat myself. I have a electric paragon kiln I can get up to 1700 F and can keep the heat pretty constant once I get to the desired temp. I have a bunch of knives ready in CPM 154 but I still need to do about 4 more before I send them off to be treated at Pete's heat treat. I've been looking at getting some 1095 and wonder what anyone with some experience can tell me about that steel, good bad and otherwise. And if there is a better choice within my parameters for being able to treat it myself( also looked at O1). Thanks in advance.
Mitch |
#2
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1095 is great but it's a little touchy. It needs a fast pro oil for quenching. It rusts fairly easily.
But, if you have a Paragon the O1 is the way to go. As long as you don't need a hamon line, O1 will do anything 1095 or 1084 will do and it will do it considerably better. In many ways, O1 may be the best all around carbon steel for knives - I love the stuff! Anyway, try both and compare... |
#3
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I use 1095 for most of my knives. The more you polish it the better it is. I take it down to an A45 on a trizact belt for a belt brushed finish or mirror polish
It and don't have much trouble with rust. If you look at my gallery 99 percent of the pictured blades are 1095. This is honestly nothing to do with Preference though. Most of my customers won't buy anything but 1095 blades. |
#4
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My vote is O1 but it is a bit pricy compared to 1095. I have used 1084, 1095 and O1 a fair bit and honestly the O1 shines over the others. If O1 is out of the question I would go to 1084 before 1095 just for the ease of heat treating.
__________________ J, Saccucci Knives, JSK |
#5
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I would personally use 52100 or W2.
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#6
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It's kind of an apples and oranges thing for me. I typically don't use O-1, instead I use 52100. It always comes back to what I want to get out of the blade and what it is intended to be used for. Personally if I'm using 1095 I want to bring some kind of temper line out because that steel will do it. As far as an easy steel to forge and treat, 5160 is hard to beat.
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#7
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I use 1095 and 440C stainless. I'm going to phase out the 1095 because it rusts fairly easy. The two aren't that much different in price, but the 440C seems a little harder to work. If you heat it for awhile it gets a little easier to work. I'm just starting out good though.
good luck, Michael __________________ My lifeguard walks on water |
#8
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Here is a site that will help you decide what steel you want to use click on any steel listed and it has the info you need to work with it . Book mark it and you will have ti for the future .
http://hudson-metals.com/ Sam __________________ R. Yates 13 & On Forge Live and Let Live , Do Not trespass on Life or Me! As we are not so kind or forgiving ! |
#9
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Choosing a favorite steel is a debate that could go on for a long time with many good choices.
For me 1095 is a little too finicky in the H/T to be a favorite. For day-to-day usage I prefer one with a more forgiving H/T like 1084 or 5160. The advantage to one like 1095 is in getting a hamon and for that I prefer W2. Gary __________________ Gary ABS,CKCA, ABKA,KGA |
#10
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Quote:
Michael __________________ My lifeguard walks on water |
#11
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I got my first blAde made from some 1095 I got from Jantz. The heat treat went ok, kind of. I used motor oil and was worried it didn't harden because it didn't pass the file test, but when I tried to drill the tang I found out I had definitely had hardened b/c I got nowhere with the drill. I read on another forum there may have been some surface decarborization and that's why the file scratched it. I have an old parogon kiln and it takes a long time to hit 1500, the time it spent above 1475 to 1500 was definitely longer than 10-15 minutes. Could this have caused more carbon to burn off than if the kiln ramped up faster? What do you guys with more smarts in in this stuff think?
Mm |
#12
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You will not fully harden 1095 using motor oil as a quench. You will end up with a mixed product of martensite and pearlite which will resist being drilled or filed, but will not hold an edge as a knife.
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#13
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Quote:
MM |
#14
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Mitch,
Think of it this way: Since the steel is mixed martensite & pearlite then it is a mixture of hard & soft. Something as wide as a file or drill bit is going to hit both hard & soft and be resisted though something as thin as a cutting edge will have spots of nothing but pearlite which won't hold an edge. This is a very simple explanation but hopefully it makes sense. Gary __________________ Gary ABS,CKCA, ABKA,KGA Last edited by Gary Mulkey; 08-19-2013 at 08:21 AM. |
#15
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Quote:
1084/85 is much easier to get a good HT with, and will greatly out perform poorly HTed 1095, although it too requires a fast quench oil to be at it's best. |
Tags |
1084, 1095, 5160, 52100, art, back, bee, blade, blades, easy, forge, hamon, heat, heat treat, knife, knife making, knives, making, mirror, polish, stainless, steel, temper, throw |
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