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Fine Embellishment Everything from hand engraving and scrimshaw to filework and carving. The fine art end of the knifemaker's craft. |
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#1
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last try to get an answer
I read a thread on acid etching (but i cant remember by who ) in the post this individual used a special ink to write/draw his design then comes tha acid bath and he is left with a flat background and beautiful raised letters and designs. my question is what keeps the acid from eatting away at the side of the raised portions? im not sure im being totally clear but im just not sure how to explain the question any better
thanks bill __________________ Cowards die many times before their deaths; the valiant never taste death but once. --Shakespeare: Julius Caesar |
#2
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It will eat away at the sides, but just slightly. It's a function of surface area, and since the etch is a few thousandths deep, there's just not that much surface area for the acid to eat.
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#3
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I'm pretty sure that Montejano posted that threat, but I can't seem to find it.
The last page of this thread talks about it. http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=25368 Jeremy |
#4
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Omega,
The ink you are looking for is made by New England Graphics. It is a black acid resitant ink made for etching newspaper printing plates. It is really good stuff. I don't have their address. It has been so long since I have done acid etching that I have lost all those contacts. I remember that New England Graphics is the name of the company. Maybe a Google search will help you find them. The acid will eat at the sides unless you carefully resist those between acid baths. That is why acid etshing always has a slightly ragged edge compared to a cut line. Ray |
#5
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Some acids have the tendency to eat straight down. For an etch to show clearly it does not have to be very deep. With your eyes closed you can barley feel it is raised. the color of the backround gives the illusion of depth. Like the pattern in damaskus.
__________________ "Many are chosen, but few are Pict" "The doer alone, learneth" NT Neo-Devo |
#6
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the acid does eat at the sidewalls and undercuts the masked off areas to some degree. if you want to do a deep etch , the proper order of events is to etch, neutralize the metal and dry, reapply the resist to the etched walls and then put it back into the acid. this process is repeated until the proper depth is reached .
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#7
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thanks for the help guys
__________________ Cowards die many times before their deaths; the valiant never taste death but once. --Shakespeare: Julius Caesar |
#8
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Montejano. Hi I'm interested in knowing how to make the antacid ink your talking of. I'm in Australia and have tried to find a supplier but have had no luck.
I've been etching a mild steel test piece with hydrochloric acid with limit suscess any tips for types of acid and ratios would also be appricated. Thank you blackspade axes. |
#9
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Blackspadeaxes this thread is 12 years old. You might want to start a new thread explaining what you do now and where you would like to go. Also let folks know you're in Australia in case they don't notice your location. I'm a novice on acid etching if even enough to be called novice. I know about some stuff like etching damascus, not much else. A new thread may be appropriate as some of these guys are probably gone now.
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#10
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Jimmontg oh thank you I didn't even realise. Thank you very much for the advise I'll create a new post.
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#11
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I used a brand new Sharpie to draw pictures on polished carbon steel blades.
I cleaned up my designs with a dry toothpick which easily and precisely removes the ink from the polished surface. I then etched in ferric chloride and the FC did not penetrate the sharpie ink at all. Spray with Windex to neutralize and remove the ink with alcohol and a paper towel. I've attempted this three times. All were successful. __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#12
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Hey Andy.
Thank you for the advise. I'll give it a try! |
#13
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A sharpie? How much did you water down the Ferric acid if at all?
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#14
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I use the circuit board etchant from Radio Shack straight from the bottle on at least one. For most etching I run a 50% dilution with distilled water.
__________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#15
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New Sharpies leave a very thick coat of wet ink that levels itself nicely--no areas of 'see-thru'. That's what you want.
__________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
Tags |
acid, acid etching, art, bee, blade, blades, brand, carbon, case, coat, damascus, etched, etching, how to, knife, make, post, steel, surface, tips, toothpick, water |
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