How do you sharpen your gravers?

[tmickley]

From browsing the old threads I know this has been kicked around here and there but I'd sure like to pull it together since I'm confused.

In watching Lynton McKenzies video he makes a great argument for using his two stone method for sharpening by hand but then I read where most are using a power hone (I guess from GRS) and touching up occasionally by hand with a ceramic to round a heel point.

I've just started with a gravermeister and plan to use 3/32 blanks from Steve Lindsay. I have the stones (heh) and a GRS diamond hone with a 600 grit wheel.

Which is the way to go? Should I learn McKenzies method or use the GRS sharpener?
thanks for any opinions...

[rhrocker]

I guess you should know how to sharpen with stones Tracy. However, that being said, I couldn't do that if I tried. I have the GRS system, and even invested in the GRS sharpening tape. There's a bit of a learning curse because not everyone engraves exactly the same way, but once you have it set like you want, it makes sharpening a snap. There may be other sharpening systems out there that I'm not aware of, but for me, the GRS does the job easily. Now, if I could just get back into my engraving training, I'd really be happy!

[fitzo]

Tracy, I'd strongly recommend the sharpening video from GRS, though it concentrates more on their newer holder than the one in that foto on ebay of the setup you bought. It gives some good info and demos of use for different point angles. Like Robert said, you'll eventually find the geometries that best suit you and your developing style. I'm afraid you'll find that the 600 grit wheel isn't fine enough, and that you'll want at least the ceramic wheel and the diamond spray to get a mirror finish on the gravers. I got a 100 grit wheel from Lindsay recently and found it an excellent aid to roughing in graver shape. I sequence mine 100, 240, 600, ceramic. BTW, the Lindsay wheels save you money by being just the thin diamond-bearing part of the wheel, without the aluminum casting the GRS wheels are attached to. In order for them to work best, it's best to have the "quick-change" hone attachment GRS sells. Otherwise, stick to the GRS wheels.

I have been a novice at engraving for years and have yet to develop any skill. (I love it, though!) That means I break a whole bunch of graver points. I'd recommend you do your learning with points that favor strength over finesse and delicacy, so you get to spend more time at the practice plate than the hone.

Good luck, and I hope you enjoy it as much as I do!

[Jeremy Krammes]

I tryed hand shaprening, and then got the GRS power hone right after that. I feel its much more precise. I think you need diamond to sharpen Lindsays gravers any way. I've been using Steves bits excluslivly. I was using the GRS gravers, and was always breaking them, since I went to the Lindsay gravers I hardly break any (I'm still learning).

Jeremy

[Joe Mason]

You will need at lease 260 grit wheel to grind the Lindsay graver. These gravers are very hard. You may want to think about starting with a softer metal at first. I also would recommend the GRS sharpening video.

Joe

[ron p. nott]

Hi Tracy .. I have been engraving since 1970 and I have tried every way you can think of to sharpen my chisels . The best way is to go for the GRS hone .every time you sharpen your chisels you will have the same angle and that is important when doing quality engraving .. I start with the Lindsay chisel 3/32nd and I sharpen a 50 degree face on it and then I sharpen a 20 degree heel I also taper my engravers I grind the sides of my chisels down at a 3 degree anlge so they are very thin at the cutting tip . and then there is the gold inlaying chisel which is a 3/32 chisel and that face is a long 15 degree angle and then that is norrowed down so you can under cut tight scroll .. I hope I didnt confuse you .. ron

[Ray Cover Jr]

Tracy,

I have the Mckenzie tapes too and I have watched him sharpen. His reasoning for using his method is that it is supposed to be faster than messing with all the fixtures of a power method.

After watching him do it on the tape and seeing how he does it, I will dare say I can sharpen with my power hone faster than he could by hand.

Now let me clarify that statement. When I sharpen I generally sharpen a whole day or two worth of gravers. I may sharpen as many as 10 at a time. I assembly line this process by facing all ten and then heeling all ten. That way I set my fixture up once and do that process on ten pieces before changing anything. By doing it this way I can sharpen ten gravers in about half the time it would take doing it the way you saw on the tape.

The other advantage is that your angles are all accurate and consistent. A very impossible feat doing it by hand.

Ray

[tmickley]

Well the vote is in. Clearly All professionals and most amatuers prefer the GRS sharpening system for consistant, quick results. I need to get my GRS catalog here so I can figure out what I need to order. Thank you all for your advise. I am starting to run out of room in my shop, serious. I have my eye on the utility room where the furnace and water are for the last couple weeks.

[fitzo]

One most certainly needs a clean quiet place away from the dirt and distraction of the knifeshop to do engraving, Tracy!!!