Tandy Pro Dye

[R. D. Finch]

Anybody use Tandy's brand of dye? Is it any good?

[DC KNIVES]

Hi Ricky,I have used them in the past but switched to Fiebing's as I believe it is much better.It covers nicely and has a real rich color to it.It does cost a little more but it is worth it. The Tandy Antique Stains are pretty good and I use them alot. Hope this helps.Dave

[Dragon cutlery]

i mix colors for my sheaths and i cant get tandys red dye to mix with Fiebing's blue and make purple all i get is mud so i like Fiebing's when i use thers i get purple just fine and there u.s.m.c. black is a nice strong black

[R. D. Finch]

Thanks Guys

I bought a quart a couple of years ago and was getting low. And not sure what brand to order, but I'll buy the Fiebing's.

[Chuck Burrows]

Ricky - Sorry I haven't had a chance to return your email or answer here.
I used to use Tandy's Pro Dye many moons ago and at that time liked it fine. But they have apparently cheaped it out and it just doesn't cut it. In the long run it's cheaper to go with Fiebings.
Note there are two types of Fiebings, the Pro Oil Dye and the less expensive regular stuff - the only Pro Oil I have used much at all is the black, which does work better than the regular, but otherwise I don't find a lot of difference between the two, although other's mileage varies.

In your email you made note that you didn't get the dye to penetrate in certain spots - usually that means there is some gunk embedded, either from the tanning process or from handling. Before you dye deglaze the surface using denatured alcohol or acetone - soak a rag in it and wipe the surface clean. After deglazing lightly dampen the leather with distilled water. Dampening opens the leathers pores and allows the dye to penetrate. After dying when the piece is completely dry, thoroughly wipe off the powdery surface film left behind so you won't get bleeding.

[R. D. Finch]

Thanks Chuck

I used 70% Isopropyl alcohol to deglaze. Is this OK to use? But I didn't wet with water before dyeing.

[Chuck Burrows]

Ricky - usually and when you do then dampening isn't necessary if you dye while still damp since the other 30% of Isopropyl is water.
If you've got tough spot though then the other two may be called for.