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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making.

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  #1  
Old 02-14-2004, 07:02 PM
olddog olddog is offline
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Rawhide sealer

Quote:
It's best to collect the pitch in hard, dry form
Hi everyone, i was looking for Tais pine resin recipe to seal my rawhide sheath project,i found this quote from Tai. my question is, i bought some copal Amber to use as spacing material,has anyone tried this for a sealer?? i've had some soaking for 3 weeks in alcohol,and its softened the amber and was sticky,but only off the chunk of amber,any thoughts. thanks Lloyd K.
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  #2  
Old 02-25-2004, 11:00 AM
paul harm paul harm is offline
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don't know what you're sealing but, on an earlier thread chuck suggested using " waco danish oil". can be bought at hardware stores. paul
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Old 02-25-2004, 01:15 PM
olddog olddog is offline
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thanks Paul,im sealing a rawhide sheath and a rawhide handle wrap on my knife,i think i have watco someplace around.(that little fellow must have hid it again).what i'm trying to do is use that copal stuff,witch looks alot like the photo of Max the knifes bucket full of pinion pitch droppings to my eye. just to waterproof the rawhide.i'll give this a try .if it doesnt work i'll get a pound off of Max,if he has any left. Lloyd K.
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  #4  
Old 02-25-2004, 01:42 PM
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Chuck Burrows Chuck Burrows is offline
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Actually my favorite and period correct sealer is old time Spar Varnish (not the newer spar urethane).


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Wild Rose Trading Co - Handcrafted Knife Sheaths



The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses.
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Old 02-25-2004, 02:05 PM
olddog olddog is offline
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Quote:
Actually my favorite and period correct sealer is old time Spar Varnish
thanks for chimming in Chuck as long as its period,i'll try to find some i know alot of pack rats, finding the linen wasnt bad,got the deer back senew, i have a question.on the "Cactus Rose #4"the third image on page 3 .shows the vegtan core under the rawhide, is the belt loop a third piece?simpler wording is the vegtan core 2 piece or 3?and is the back flesh in?the work is great witch makes me ask these questions,thanks again Lloyd K. was the old time spar varnish made of shellac??

Last edited by olddog; 02-25-2004 at 02:30 PM.
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  #6  
Old 02-25-2004, 02:29 PM
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Chuck Burrows Chuck Burrows is offline
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The core is actually 4 pieces - front, back, welt , and attached belt loop - skin side in - as noted think of it as a whiteman's sheath that got "fixed" frontier style with rawhdie, etc. - so in other words make a vegtan sheath and then cover it.


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Wild Rose Trading Co - Handcrafted Knife Sheaths



The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses.
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Old 02-25-2004, 02:42 PM
olddog olddog is offline
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Most Helpfull Chuck its one of those old time pieces i just cant get out of my head, when i saw the decorative creases on the belt loop i just had to ask,small details make all the work come together.Lloyd K.
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  #8  
Old 03-15-2004, 03:46 PM
NH-DAN NH-DAN is offline
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Working with rawhide.

I am about to try working with rawhide, and I have a few questions.
How wet should the rawhide be when working it?
Do you need to pre-punch holes for stiching?
How much will it shrink when it drys?
Can I just place the knife in the finished sheath while it is still wet, and let it dry, to get a good fit?
Last but not least, what can I use to seal it with?

Thanks in advance for your help. This is going to be my first attempt at anything like this.
Dan
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  #9  
Old 03-15-2004, 04:38 PM
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Chuck Burrows Chuck Burrows is offline
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Howdy Dan and welcome.

I will try to answer your questions but part of the equation is what type rawhide you are using. Assuming that it is most likely cow my answers will be based on that.
1) It must be completely soaked through and flexible - with cowhide this can take anywhere from 2-4 hours depending on the size of the piece and thickness. At first it will be quite slimy feeling - wrap it in an old towel to remove the surface moisture.
2) Probably - I use an awl and then follow up using a blunt tipped saddler's needle no matter what the stitch. On thinner stock and with thinner thread a large glover's needle can often be used in lieu of the above.
3) Shrinkage is all dependent on the hide and whether you dry it with heat - a hair dryer or in the sun for instance. On average cow will when air dried only shrink about 1/4-3/8". Dried and rehydrated rawhide does not shrink the same rate as a fresh green hide.
4) Yes - it's best to oil the blade good and wrap it in plastic wrap if you want to prevent rust.
5) I use the traditional whiteman's sealer - spar varnish (oil based not the urethane). Other options are Watco Danish oil, Tung Oil, Thompson's Water Seal. Tai Goo has a formula for a totally natural sealer - take completely dried pine pitch (he uses pinon) and grind it into a fine powder. Soak in alcohol (use as much as needed to make a thin paste-takes about 24-48 hours) and then brush on and let dry. Remember that it needs to be sealed on both the inside and outside.

If you are interested in working with Rawhide and/or braintan check out the Hide Out at http://64.124.46.34/WebX?14@118.64N6...40247@.ee6b280


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Wild Rose Trading Co - Handcrafted Knife Sheaths



The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses.
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  #10  
Old 03-16-2004, 07:18 AM
NH-DAN NH-DAN is offline
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Thanks for your reply. I will be using whitetail raw hide. I found this forum from a link you posted in the hide out. I've been looking to use some of my rawhide, and brain tan, and your cactus rose series sheaths and knifes have inspired me to try my hand at leather crafting. As this project progresses I'm sure I will be back with more questions.

Dan
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  #11  
Old 03-16-2004, 11:41 AM
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Chuck Burrows Chuck Burrows is offline
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Howdy Dan-
When I use the thinn er rawhides such as deer - I normally make an 7/8oz veg/oak tanned cowhide liner (the thickness/weight of the liner will depend on the size of the knife blade).
Most deer is only about 3/4 oz max and unless the knife is really small it's just too thin too make a good sheath on it's own.

If you've never worked with veg tan before click on the how-to's button up at the top right hand and scroll down until you find the WRTC/Wild Rose Tutorials. As a liner the veg tan "sheath does not of course have to be as highly finished or have am outside finish on the leather. When wrapped with rawhide you get a nicely stiff sheath.


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Wild Rose Trading Co - Handcrafted Knife Sheaths



The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses.
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  #12  
Old 03-21-2004, 12:47 PM
rebglass rebglass is offline
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rawhide covered with eather

I love the sheaths that Karen Shooks (?) makes for Dan Winkler's knives. I believe that she makes the sheath with rawhide and covers it with leather. Does anyone know this technique?
rebecca
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  #13  
Old 03-21-2004, 01:23 PM
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Chuck Burrows Chuck Burrows is offline
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Howdy Rebecca and Welcome -
Karen Shook (no s on the end) makes hers mainly with a veg tan leather liner and then covers them in rawhide. Some also have buckskin over the rawhide.
To see a good selection of her stuff check out Dan's site at www.winklerknives.com.

I use a similar process on many of mine - here's an example of the basic process I used - the idea for this one was a "whiteman's" sheath that was later "repaired" in true Frontier style:
Vegtan Liner with the rawhide cover pieces and the real sinew thread.

The rawhide cover attached and painted

Back view of the rawhide cover

The finished product with a braintan cuff that has been beaded

Back view of the finished product


Frontier sheaths are my first love and if you do a search for CactusRose and frontier sheaths you will find more of my work. Glad to answer any questions.


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Wild Rose Trading Co - Handcrafted Knife Sheaths



The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses.

Last edited by Chuck Burrows; 03-21-2004 at 01:28 PM.
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  #14  
Old 03-25-2004, 07:40 PM
rebglass rebglass is offline
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Thanks, Chuck. I just found your reply today. I am a BIG admirer of your work, especially the frontier-type pieces. I think I've read most of your tutorials. I have so many questions about this technique - would you ever consider doing a tutorial on this style? Questions - do you form the rawhide wet around the knife, then somehow fit the leather inside? Leather wet, too? All in one step, or two steps? what weight leather?
What kind of stitch do you use to fix the rawhide and leather liner together? Glue too? How do you paint the rawhide - with what? Braintan collar - can I use sometyhing else, or where to get braintan? Do you fix this material inside the rim of the sheath and then roll it over the top? Or is it just an added layer glued or stitched to the outside?
This is an obnoxious number of questions - I'd appreciate any info you have time for. Do you ever give workshops?
Rebecca
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  #15  
Old 03-28-2004, 12:21 AM
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flashinthepan flashinthepan is offline
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Smile Hey to Chuck

Am I detecting a video or a book in yer near future ??
Those questions from Rebecca are the same ones as on my mind..
It's like someone is reading my mail...
Yer work is about the best I've feasted my peepers on..
Stay well, guard the West; and I'll stay well and guard the East..
Be well
Thom
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push on the chain ???
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