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#1
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Neverending Epoxy question
Hi, I need some epoxy help. I am trying to finish a stockman knife, when I peened the center pin in, the K&G epoxy I used for the scales let go right around the bolsters. I need to know if there is a way to thin the epoxy or if there is a brand I could get that will flow into this small, and I mean small gap. I tried using a .006 feeler gauge to get some K&G into the gap, but I couldn't get it in there. The wood will actually 'click' when it is pressed back down where it should be. The last thing I want to do is drill that pin out, that thing whupped my tail trying to get the back springs just right. Hope I described this well enough.
Thanks, Dan |
#2
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To make my mosa?c pin, I heat my epoxy with a air dryer
to thin it... But the cure time reduce with heating... Some peoples use acetone to thin epoxy, but aceton make the epoxy softer, like ruber... You can use Superglue tu fill some gap and holes... Superglue are more thin than epoxy... Good luck ! Alain M-D |
#3
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Try thin super glue applied with a 25 guage insulin syringe - surprisingly it won't harden quickly in the syringe.
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#4
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since you mention springs, maybe the guys in the folding knife forum have already solved this problem. You may want to go there and ask them.
The thing that bothers me about trrying to fix this is that there is "BAD" epoxy already under the slab so adding more may not help. It may be a hassle but I would remove the pin, clean it all up and redo it. You can make if OK but you never know if the "BAD" epoxy will let go under the repair at a later date. |
#5
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I thought about asking there, I didn't initially because you Bob have been awesome in always providing good quick answers that make me go, Hmmm, why didn't I think of that. I may have to drill it back out, the trouble came in trying to get the blades aligned into the 2 back springs, these things have a surprising amount of tension on them. I do get a good, gap free fit when I press the ironwood slabs back down. Right now the knife is sitting with some 90 minute epoxy from ACE that may do the trick. I has much more fluidity than the K&G stuff. I reckon I'll know more tomorrow. I thought about the superglue, but didn't think it would make for a good ironwood to brass bond, let me know if I am wrong about that.
Thanks, Dan |
#6
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I think Bob will agree with me - superglue probably wouldn't make a good bond with your situation as the materials have already been covered with questionable epoxy. Like epoxies, the best bond is on a clean, roughened surface.
I've used a lot of different epoxies and superglues in musical instrument construction and ski repairs, in addition to knives, and don't have as much confidence in any of the superglues for longevity or strength - but they do penetrate well, plus fill small inclusions nicely. |
#7
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The roughness of the pieces is a factor of how well it sticks.
It is best to roughen up the surfaces a little if possible. Heat will thin out the epoxy. If you put the epoxy in a sandwich baggie and poke a hole in the corner, you can SQEEZE it into place where you could not push it in before.(like a cake decorating bag) Allow a little to heap, and dry on top because it shrinks just a little. When cured it can be trimmed back and smoothed.(exacto knife) |
#8
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there are a couple of types of superglue
fast drying... and slo curing...
use the slo curing, wear rubber gloves.. place some on the area in question..press it into the gaps with your finger.. wipe the area clean with paper towels....and put the knife in the vise and close it enough to put the scale in its place till it hardens..youll be fine..it takes about 35 mins for that stuff to harden.. just be neat..organized..sparing, and clean in your operation.. it will work fine.. jl |
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folding knife, knife, knives |
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