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  #1  
Old 11-09-2004, 09:32 PM
TJ Smith TJ Smith is offline
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Etch stencils

Electro chem etch stencil

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

AS long as these systems have been around I am wondering if anyone has a substitute for the developer used to wash or desolve the unexposed film away to expose the screen??
I can expose the film ok but can't seem to get rid of the unexposed portion.
I expose for 2min 30 sec. and wash for 4.
I get a almost white image with sharp edges.
i am using IMGs developer.
HELP
TJ


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  #2  
Old 11-10-2004, 08:47 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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That's an interesting question. A substitute for the developing solution would be handy. But, I don't quite understand the rest of what you said. You seem to say that you can't get the stencil to completely develop, i.e., you can't get rid of the unexposed portion. Then you say you get an almost white image with sharp edges which, in fact, is a perfectly developed stencil. I use the same times as you do and get the same results and my stencils work fine. Can you clarify any of this?


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  #3  
Old 11-10-2004, 03:53 PM
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Chris_Crawford Chris_Crawford is offline
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Hey TJ, I've had the same problem that you are having, and I've found that the problem is that the stencil has been over exposed.

Even thought it looks like the stencil is developed, if it's over exposed, then that last little bit which you can not see will keep the stencil from working. I believe that when the stencil is over exposed the light or heat kind of creeps in to the area which is protected.

I had this problem recently when I developed a very small stencil for a folder blade. This stencil was about 1/2 of the size of the ones I had been using, and I had to back my time down from 2:45 to about 2:15.

Every developer box and lighting combination could give different results. If you are exposing your stencil for 2:30, I would back it off to about 2:00 and see how it comes out. Give that a try and see if it helps.

By the way, I usually develop my stencils for around 10 minutes. I swish the stencil around in the solution and rub it with my fingers every 3 minutes. I'm using the IMG system also.

Hope this helps. -chris


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  #4  
Old 11-10-2004, 09:31 PM
TJ Smith TJ Smith is offline
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The problem is that thers still is some material over the base fabric. Pressing a wet pad over the stencil doesn't leave a wet spot on the other side.
I increased the solution strength a litte and got one to wash out ok. my shop is cold about 45 I am going to warm up the solution a little.
Thanks for all the ideas and help.
When I get it worked out I'll post some results.
TJ


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  #5  
Old 12-08-2005, 09:46 PM
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Dragon cutlery Dragon cutlery is offline
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are you pealing of the plastic after exposing and before develiping that one got me on the first 2 stensils i made


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  #6  
Old 12-09-2005, 10:08 PM
TJ Smith TJ Smith is offline
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Thanks for the replies.
The developing problem was solved by warming up the solution to 90 degrees. I still develop for 6-7 minutes. I use a vibrating jewelry cleaner for that. Does a great job.
My shop is cold. I expose the stencils for 2:30 and peel the clear film off and then develop for 6-7 minutes. You can see the screen as it turns kinda white. My problem before was to cold and not quite long enough.
Be sure to keep the bright light off antil stencil has developed.( Guess how I know that)
Take Care
TJ


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Old 12-10-2005, 09:05 AM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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I've also recently been trying to make my own stencils using the methods you guys describe.

I've never been able to get a really sharp outline. Part of the stenciled mark will be missing, or if I use a heavy type font, it won't be even.

I think you may have given me a clue. I've been exposing for 3 minutes. That may remove a little of the mask around the image.

I'm going to try 2 minutes on the next one.

I have my own mark stencils from Electrochem Etch and they are great. I bought this stencil maker to add my customer's marks to their knives. I've made several knives this fall marked "Christmas 2005" at customer's request.

I'm watching this thread for someone to come up with the final answer.
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  #8  
Old 12-10-2005, 07:17 PM
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Don,

What light source are you using and how far away from the stencil? I would say that you are not getting enough light to the stencil. I had that trouble till I built my current set-up.

I have been able to get really good detail from my current set-up. I have sent a USMC logo to Mace, and did a couple for my nieces that had thier name, hunter's ed number and a logo (logo in center, name and number in a ring around). This all on a blade about 3/4" in width.

I am exposing in my set-up for around 7-10 minutes. The big thing that will happen, if you are over-exposing the the stencil, it will get brittle.

The other thing I do to keep edges crisp is put a black peice of construction paper or cloth on the far side of the stencil, and then a plate of glass to keep it flat. The construction paper will prevent the light from getting into the glass and coming down on the back side of the the stencil and partially hardening it.

Block letters come out crisp and clean doing this method also.


--Carl


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  #9  
Old 12-12-2005, 07:32 AM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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Mark 440 exposure unit

Her's what I use.

http://www.etch-o-matic.com/stencils.html

I've been folowing the instructions and exposing for 3 minutes using the timer. As I said before, the stencil mark is uneven.

If you go to that site, look at the instuctions for marking metal.

I use a Personalizer Plus, and their stencils work perfectly.
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  #10  
Old 12-12-2005, 10:47 AM
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Don,

I have never used their stuff, I get my stencils and developer from
http://www.img-electromark.com/
as suggested by Bob Warner
http://www.warnerknives.com/stencil_exposure_unit.htm
I built my current exposure unit in a cardboard box with a pre-drilled PCB and a bunch of UV LEDs I got off of e-bay. One of these days I want to do a tutorial on this unit and build myself one in a better box, using an old laptop wall wart.

The exposure unit you are using appears to protect the backside of the stencil. What light do you work under while setting up? Best is probably Red or Yellow, not any white or florescent.

The other question, is the stencil un-even outwards, or inwards. ie is the lettering left having spots inside the letters, or is it leaving blobs on the outside of the letters?

--Carl


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Old 12-12-2005, 04:02 PM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwp
Don,

I have never used their stuff, I get my stencils and developer from
http://www.img-electromark.com/
as suggested by Bob Warner
http://www.warnerknives.com/stencil_exposure_unit.htm
I built my current exposure unit in a cardboard box with a pre-drilled PCB and a bunch of UV LEDs I got off of e-bay. One of these days I want to do a tutorial on this unit and build myself one in a better box, using an old laptop wall wart.

The exposure unit you are using appears to protect the backside of the stencil. What light do you work under while setting up? Best is probably Red or Yellow, not any white or florescent.

The other question, is the stencil un-even outwards, or inwards. ie is the lettering left having spots inside the letters, or is it leaving blobs on the outside of the letters?

--Carl
No lights in the room, blinds closed.

No blobs in the image, clear and clean white to the eye.
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  #12  
Old 12-12-2005, 04:36 PM
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Don,

I guess what I am asking is when you say "the stencil mark is uneven" is it uneven into the stencil or out of the stencil.

The reason I am asking is this says alot about how the light hit the material. Just trying to brainstorm possible causes for this.

--Carl


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