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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 12-01-2003, 02:56 PM
Jared P Jared P is offline
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1084 supplier

I've decided on using 1084 as my practice steel, anyone have a good supplier for barstock in the North Texas area preferably, or anywhere else for that matter?

Thanks
Jared
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  #2  
Old 12-01-2003, 03:00 PM
fitzo fitzo is offline
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1084 is getting more difficult to obtain. One of the larger distributors, Admiral Steel, near Chicago, has discontinued the item and switched to 1080.

Several people have evaluated this steel and found it to be relativley equivalent when making damascus.

You may find information under "blade steels" at:

http://www.admiralsteel.com/
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  #3  
Old 12-01-2003, 03:07 PM
Jared P Jared P is offline
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Well thanks fitzo, that's interesting. Any suggestions on an afforable, serviceable steel to practice with? I'm planning on a LOT of practice, I think I need it!

Jared
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  #4  
Old 12-01-2003, 03:19 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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My Sheffield catalog lists some 1084, although if Admiral has stopped carrying it then Sheffield will probably drop it too.

Are you forging or grinding? If you are grinding, some guys practice on plain old mild steel avaiable at your local hardware store.

Other than that, the 1080 Fitzo mentioned should do fine. Also, Admiral carries 1095 which is also very cheap and makes good blades....


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  #5  
Old 12-01-2003, 03:22 PM
fitzo fitzo is offline
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I am a big fan of O1, since that's what I learned on. 1080 or 1075 would be good steel. 5160, though lower carbon, makes a good tough blade; you may find it readily available locally at a place that makes truck springs. Cutoffs may be available quite cheap. 1095 is a bit difficult to work with because of the very, very short quench time necessary. I'd hold off on it, personally, until you learn the basics.

The important thing to learn in the beginning, besides the forging skills of pounding hot steel, is the thermal cycling. As one forges, we almost all get it hot enough to cause grain growth. It is critical to get that grain size reduced to get the most out of the steel, and then harden and temper properly.

Thus, I suggest you pick one of the steels mentioned above and learn to pound it into shape, but more importantly read every thing you can here and elsewhere about normalizing, grain size reduction, and heat treating. You can make a fine knife from any steel mentioned, if done right. Practice, practice, practice. Ask all the questions you can think of.

Read back, there was a very good response to this very question by Ray Rogers a month or so ago, here in the Newbies section.

Once again, Ray shows he's more perceptive than me... I was assuming you were considering forging this stuff....... for grinding, I'd still say O1 or 1080.

Last edited by fitzo; 12-01-2003 at 04:05 PM.
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  #6  
Old 12-01-2003, 04:11 PM
Jared P Jared P is offline
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Thanks Ray and fitzo!

I will be grinding and have some 01 already, I just want to practice on something less expensive before I maim what I have already! :rollseyes: I have considered using a mild steel to practice, however I'd like to have something to show for all my practice and would prefer to stick with heatreatable steel. Maybe I'm just being too cheap! I'll look into the 1080, and I'm wondering if there's an affordable dealer for 5160 bar stock, I've heard that is a forgiving steel to start with. Any clue, or is most of what's available suited for forging?


Thanks
Jared
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  #7  
Old 12-01-2003, 04:33 PM
fitzo fitzo is offline
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A cool trick to getting some basic grinding skills is to grind wood. Sounds hokey, but it's true.

1/4" wood lathe or furring strips are cheap. Profile yourself out some blanks out of wood. Practice grinding on those. When you develop the skill to get a good grind on wood, you will have learned a lot because of quickly it goes away. Saves on belts, too.

I apologize for misunderstanding earlier about grinding vs. forging. I would still check the Yellow Pages to see if there's a place makes truck springs of 5160 anywhere near. Oftentimes there are big truck places that may have some discards, too. Can't get any cheaper than free, if they'll give you cutoffs. Tell 'em what you're doing. That often intrigues people, and they may let you scrounge the scrap bin. Another possibility may be to call machine shops and ask the same question, though you may not be certain of what yer getting there.

Other than that, I can't say much more, as I've had at least a hundred pounds of steel on hand at all times for too many years.... I honestly haven't worried about price in a long time, but that's cuz I'm older and not very frugal.... hopefully someone else who's addressed this very need recently will chime in.

Good luck, and enjoy... it's a great adventure!
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  #8  
Old 12-01-2003, 06:33 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Admiral Steel sells 5160 and so does Sheffield Supply. Their prices are quite low but still not as low as free . The only problem I have with 5160 from those sources is that it is not annealed so there is that extra work to do before you can really use it, so the 1080 or whatever might still be a better deal.

Cut offs from a local spring maker are good but you need to be sure that they really know what steel they have in that scrap bin. Going through heat treating and annealing etc on a piece of mystery steel can lead to less than desirable results. And again, I wouldn't be surprised to find out the local 5160 scraps had to be annealed too....


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Old 12-01-2003, 07:12 PM
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Bob Warner Bob Warner is offline
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Jared,

I get my 1084 from Admiral. It is not really expensive even after adding in the shipping. I have some 5160 and 1084 as well as some 1095 and can work a fair deal with you to get a few pieces to work on until you can get some ordered.

When you visit my shop, we can take care of you.


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