Yet Another Liner Lock Tutorial

[doublearrow]

Thanks again for the help and tutorial.

[Carlton]

Thanks, great job, this will help alot of people that were afraid to make a liner lock.

[george tichbour]

Thanks for the tutorial Ray. I made up one of those hold down jigs for my milling machine, it is going to be a big help when I am drilling and milling the slots in the locking bar.

[Ray Rogers]

Thanks, Carlton. Let me see the first knife you make using the tutorial. I'd like to add some pictures to the tutorial of knives made from it.

George,

Glad you found it useful. I use that jig when slotting my liners too. I put two clamps on the narrow end of the jig and use them to clamp the liner, then set the other narrow end into my milling vise......

[george tichbour]

I was planning to back up the liner with a piece of thin micarta and mill through the liner and into the micarta. I added a couple of mounting holes just to screw the micarta in place.

The jig is made of mild steel and a squared bar is welded on the bottom for clamping in the milling vise.

[Ray Rogers]

That sounds like it would work fine. For what it's worth, I've never felt the need to back up the liner with any other material. I'm using titanium liners of at least .050 thickness. With other materials or thinner materials I suppose it could be necessary .........

[george tichbour]

The backing is simply to avoid cross contamination. The jig I made is mild steel so when I am cutting the slot on the jig if the tip of the milling bit touches the steel I could end up with mild steel cuttings imbedded in the Ti. Eventually these will rust.

Using the micarta backing prevents this type of cross contamination and subsequent cosmetic problems.

[Ray Rogers]

Ah, now I get it! I thought you were using a slotting saw. For the record, this is how I set up for slotting:



Notice that the slot is above the end of the jig plate so there is nothing to cut but the liner......

[Ray Rogers]

By now, some of you may have made a folder - or just a prototype - from my tutorial. If you have a picture of your knife or prototype, I would like to add it to the end of the tutorial.

Here's the first one I've received, from Bill Cottrell:



You can add yours here or mail it to me at knives@rayrogers.com if it's less than 80k in size. For larger pictures, send me a note and I'll give you another email address to use....

[Chuck Bybee]

I like that knife Bill. It looks good.

What a show-off, using Timascus on his first folder. Almost like he owns the stuff.

Please bring it to Oregon so I can check it out.

[rhrocker]

You guys have probably already seen Coop's professional photography on one of the other forums by now, but I wanted to add it here again since I got my "jump-'start" for this project with Rays tutorial. BTW, I actually started with the nickel You can probably see some resemblance in the blade also. Actually, I used a lot of info gathered from several books, tutorials, videos and posts but I pretty much followed Rays steps, give or take a step or two for the basic construction. Things like nitre bluing and anodizing came from others. Over all, a fun project, and have several more going already.

[Chuck Bybee]

That is a nice knife Robert. Keep up the good work.

[tmickley]

This thread needs to be sticky. Great job on this Ray.

[Frank Niro]

Well done Robert! Frank

[Will]

Well this is number three, number two is at the mercy of the post office as it was stainless and I had to send it out and it won't be back before I head out tomorrow night. This one is for my father who has been bugging me for the longest to make him a folder with a 52100 blade. If it wasnt' for Ray's tutorial I'd have a lot bigger pile of scrap, and while I didn't do it exactly as the tutorial showed, somehow the use of the nickle and a few other things just clicked and now I get it, thanks Ray!

Triple quenched, forged 52100 blade with light etch, black G-10 bolsters, stabilized bone scales, jewled heat colored ti linners store bought pocket clip, I broke the ti one I was making. Blade is 2 3/4" cutting edge, 6 3/4" over all length.