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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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making the slot in a guard for a hidden tang
Hi,
I've tried this once so far and havent had much luck. The slot is too wide for the blade when I finally get the slot straight. So, how do you folks cut a nice straight 3/32 slot in a mild metal? I'm about ready to make a mould and end up short a few brazing rods and some flux. I started by drilling 5/64 inch holes with the drill press and filing them in a straight line. Should I have started with 1/16? Either that or make the holes straighter!? This is going to require some patience on my part isnt it? |
#2
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I just scribe line and file to them. I also under size the hole just like you did.
The only differance is that I angle (1 to 5 degree's) the slot from back to front. That way a few strokes with a file and I'm there. One more thing I do is to put a shoulder all the way around the blade. Only about 8 thousands on the riccasso flats (8 thousands is about the thickness of a dollar bill folded in two). Just how I do it. Let me know if I'm as clear as MUD ! |
#3
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Horseman,
If the guard is something like Nickle silver, brass, copper or soft stainless and kind of thick you might be able to save it. If the hole is just slightly oversized gently pein the face of the guard with a small ball pein hammer and then re -sand it flat and carefully re- file the opening. Not that I've ever had to do that... Hope this helps Jens Butler __________________ If a man is alone in the woods is he still wrong ? |
#4
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2 words
File Guides |
#5
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You can drill and file,just make sure to test fit very often.You can mill the slot on a mill.You can also cut it out with a jewelers saw and final fit with a file.
Ps.File guides help alot __________________ N'T McAhron Sqwaukin Vulture Verrinder "to create is to make art" TREMBLING EARTH KNIFE WORKS |
#6
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Yep, PATIENCE and Practice Practice Practice...
__________________ Robert Morales |
#7
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Hi,
Three words: whatsa file guide? (Sorry, gotta play the noob card!) Should I just clamp on a couple straight edged pieces of steel and have the space between them be 3/32, or is that a file guide? . When I do a search on the internet I get computer "file guide" references rather than a patterned hard steel device for removing material and mistakes in a straight line type of guide . The only file guide I've ever seen is for sharpening chain saw blades by hand and I didnt pay much attention to it at the time and bought a new chain. Thank you very much for all the encouragement and experiences. It will most certainly not be your fault if I mess up the next few! I'll have take a picture for you of what I was attempting to do so we can laugh together a little. Regards, Kurt |
#8
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I use 2 file guides and space them parallel. According to the thickness of the blades tang IE 1/8th 5/32 1/16th ?
then I drill with a slightly undersized drilledbit and file the rest out. By doing this. I keep all edges and Borders crisp and exactly the size I want them. This takes a little more time but I only have to do it once. Dan |
#9
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Quote:
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#10
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thanks
Dancbr929,
I got it now I thanks to you! While I have experience in some other areas, knife makin isnt one of them! I have that Jantz catalog, and ordering up one of those pre-slotted 3/32 knife guard deals is mighty tempting, but I will resist and try my hand at this once again with a homemade file guard. I've made a few things that have turned out decent enough in the past that were kind of unusual. None of them were knives though. Here are some pictures of a few things I've made that are kind of artsy. Supplied here so you dont think I'm a complete idiot . Stepped octogon fire pit with initials of the owner (W-F-A) and spurs! : Branding iron for the same folks (rockin 'A') : A winerack I made for a friend Thanks. Kurt |
#11
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Cooolllll stufff
Good luck you may already know this but it took me a wile and some mest-up guards to lern how important it is to brush the file often and take smooth slow strokes. Dan |
#12
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horseman1,
You might find some information on Tim Zowada's website that helps answer your guard question. Here is the link; Guard fitting. __________________ Christopher Meyer, Shenipsit Forge |
#13
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Dan, your doing good by assuming I dont know anything . This is a good and valid assumption on your part. Most things I have done are much more "rough cut" and forgiving than a knife. The amount of sins that required forgiveness (and a grinder) on the 3 octogon firepit were quite substantial! When I get some more material to bucher I will let you know how it goes!
[edit] Chris, thanks for the link, that was very helpful! [edit] Regards and thanks for the help. Kurt Last edited by horseman1; 03-25-2006 at 11:52 AM. |
#14
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OK, since you were all so very helpful to me it is time to report in on what worked in my case.
I went to Western Steel Scrap yard in Colorado Springs and picked up a couple feet of 1/8" and 1/4" thick X 2" brass bar. I spent $12 on 6 lbs of stuff. Pretty good deal as far as I can tell. So, instead of going after this thing with the high powered tools I usually use for my nonsense, I decided to go buy a dremel and a bunch of little doohickies, spinners and fuzzballs that appear to be better suited for the task at hand. The thing that caught my eye was miniture abrasive cutoff wheel. I figured I could wear it down a little on some steel to make it smaller in diameter and then cut a little slot in the brass. Anway, I used my regular chop saw I have for cutting steel and lopped about 1" off of the brass bar and made a decent rectangle for a rough finger guard. Touched it up with a grinder (bench grinder, wheels instead of belts) to get rid of the flashing. I made it a little oversized figuring I wouldnt cut a slot exactly whre I wanted and could grind on the rectangle to get a straight slot. I guess when you already know your going to screw up you make sure you dont end up being a liar . Next, I ran the dremel cutoff wheel a little on some mild steel to get the right diameter for the job. It took a while and that thin little wheel made a very good showing for itself. After I had taken some size off the wheel, I put the brass flat in the vise and made a very nice slit near the center of the rectangle. Of couse, the cut was longer on the top side than the bottom by the time the wheel made it all the way through, but I figured the long cut end would be next to the handle material anyway and would make the whole thing easier to file and give the solder or JB weld something to hold on to. I went slow with the file and test fit a lot. It didnt take long and the guard fit like a glove. Anyway, this all worked very well and I hope this response makes sense and helps some other newbie like me (who doesnt know all the terminology) make a decent guard. I know it doesnt sound like I used your techniques or advise but I did, in theory and understanding. The mechanics may have been a little different, but the ideas were all the same. (Running the file at an angle fromt to back was great!) I'll post a picture when this thing is done. I used a bent piece of pipe to help "fit" the guard in the blade too!) Sincere thanks and Regards, Kurt |
#15
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Hi! I think you're on the right path. BTW, you talked about the BBQ pit and said "Owners initials and spurs". I can't find them, just horseshoes. Maybe you're referring to the rowels. Just today I slotted a guard that was just a little loose (probably no such thing as a little loose, it's either loose, or it isn't). I didn't think that the solder would fill in the gap, so I put the guard on the blade, took it to my vice, and squeezed it really good. So good I had a hard time getting it off to clean it for the soldering. It did a really good job.
You're making some good pieces from what I can see, you won't have any trouble getting started in the knife making hobby. Ask us anything, anytime, and welcome. |
Tags |
blade, fixed blade, knife, knife making, knives |
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