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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 10-12-2003, 02:59 PM
Brad Brad is offline
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Plans for first knife -would like suggestions.

Hi
I'm new here and I'm planning my first knife. I just wanted some suggestions from those with more understanding and experience than myself on functionality, material selection and such.


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There's my first handle design, I'm thinking seriously about abandoning the finger groves for more comfort using while other holds, and they might be to fragile seeing as how they would just be wood, no metal in them like a full tang
The blade I thought of using is here:

http://www.knifeandgun.com/catalog/k...de_1524334.htm

the guard I envisioned is here:
http://www.knifeandgun.com/catalog/n...gs_1516391.htm

As you might have noticed I chose inexpensive materials.
I would like a "utility" knife that I can use for field dressing/skinning game (Whitetails in this case), a good knife for camping chores but not a machete. I chose a bowie grind mostly because I like it and it was approximatly the size I wanted, not for self-defense- I live in the woods of Wisconsin so crime is about zip and I have not heard much about man-eating racoons.
I thought about ebony for a handle and I am wondering how that works. I will be doing most everything by hand- I only have access to a belt SANDER not a grinder, a hand drill and possibly a drill press. I am open to anything you have to say and if you would like more info about anything let me know.
Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 10-12-2003, 06:57 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I can't make any claim to being a big time animal skinner, but most of the people I know who are seem to prefer much smaller blades for that particular job. Something in the 4" range usually. That's big enough for general cam chores and small enough to work inside the animal's body cavity.

Ebony is OK but it's kind of dry and may crack a little. If you can get a stabilized wood it would be much better for an outdoors knife (ebony doesn't stabilize well).

If you make your first knife I can almost guarantee that you will make your second. So, don't worry too much about this knife, just make it however you want. You can use what you learn to improve the second one ...


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  #3  
Old 10-13-2003, 03:30 PM
Brad Brad is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2003
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Thanks for your reply!
I found lots of stabilized woods in the TKS website, and I was wondering if you had a favorite.
I really like your Mt. Baker Mountain Knife- actually I had a similar design in my head before I saw yours, but with no fancy buttcap like yours (that buttcap is a good idea). I also think your lo-slung sheath idea is great, I have often been annoyed with having to "dig" for whatever knife I was wearing if I have a coat on
So I thought maybe I could use two of the teardrop guards from

TKS( http://www.texasknife.com/store/s- pages/TKS_MainframeStore.htm )

And a round pommel from

http://www.texasknife.com/store/s-pa...frameStore.htm

So leather for a sheath, handle material, blade, guards and pommels will cost about $60. Not terrible, I suppose.
(I know that sounds stingy but I'm not old enough to have a job or anything, I just get an allowance and some money for mowing the lawn and such)
Oh yeah, How's Dymondwood for handles? A knifemaking place I've been in makes a bunch of knives with it and it seems cheap too. Do you know how they are for wear resistance and workability?
Thanks a lot for your help.

P.S. If my design it to close to yours, just say so and I'll build it some other way.

Last edited by Brad; 10-13-2003 at 03:34 PM.
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Old 10-13-2003, 06:43 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Thanks for the kind words about the Mt Baker. Any knife you build or design will be similar to someone else's knife, there just aren't that many new ideas around. So, build your knife any way you want to. If you think it borrows heavily from someone else's work, it is appropriate to mention that fact any time you talk or write about the design aspect of your knife - giving credit where credit is due.

Most stabilized wood burls are pretty expensive, $25 to $35. Dymondwood is a great substitute, especially in your case. It is very cheap, usually less than $5, and has all the benefits of stabilized wood. It is very easy to shape and to finish and it is as durable as any other wood, even more durable than most wood. Go for it, and be sure to post a picture so we can see how it came out ....


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Old 10-14-2003, 12:35 PM
Brad Brad is offline
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Talking Thanks

Yeah, I noticed that the wood scales labeled "exhibition grade" were pricey. I actually had a gif doodle but I couldn't figure out how to post it so I made the letter picture instead I'll try to figure out how to post a pic when I get it finished

Thanks for all you time, you've been very helpful.
-Brad
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