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#1
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Finishing G10
DO I assemble the knife and finish the scales while it is assembled or finish them off the knife? I just got my kit today and can not wait... helpppppp. Thanks, John |
#2
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RE: Finishing G-10
What kit did you get? If it is the TRAK kit I can help you out. If it is, let me know. |
#3
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G10
I have the EV-4N1, awesome looking knife and looks like if I dont screw it up it will be a great knife. Probably should have started with a fixed blade.. oh well next time ;o) |
#4
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Re: G10
Hey John, I did my small DDR-2 by fitting the scales onto the liner, and then using a belt sander to shape the handle. I scribed the edge of the scales with the bolster in place to get a close match and was REAL careful there. Even without a belt sander, you could use files to get it matched to the liner, then follow up with various grades of paper. I am working on my EVN-1 as well, but I can't seem to make time now that my work has picked up. Little by little. Good luck!!!! We'll compare soon! Coop |
#5
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G10
I am not sure if I will want to compare.. lol Thanks for the tips. I am off to the shop to see what I can mangle.. Thanks, John |
#6
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Re: G10
John ... we have faith in you! Take you time and work it slowly. Alex |
#7
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ughhh
Tip #1 Do not bevel the G10 to much (like I did) you can not add material back to the scales. Tip #2 When you fail to follow the tip above - make the stainless meet the G10. ;o) I can see a grinder is in my future. I wasnt sure what to expect when I started this project but the above boo-boo has decided I will have polished bolsters. John |
#8
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Re: ughhh
I've been slowly working on my ddrII, I used files to carve out the big chunks before I attached it to the liners. Then I thought I'd use 220 paper to really get things lining up, but unfortunately that was going to slow, so I started using the files again. Now it matches decently well and I'm moving up the grit. Could someone tell me how to get a nice polish on the scales? I don't have any sander or anything. What is the purpose of using baby oil on paper? And if I should be doing that, at what grit should I begin? Thanks! It really is satisfying. I haven't built anything like this, ever, and even though it's going to not be the most beautiful thing, it sure is fun to do! Probably have to get another couple. |
#9
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Re: ughhh
If your using G10 for the scales, you are not going to get a high polish. Most times they are finished out between 220 and 400 grit. If you want something with a high polish try stabilized wood and use a buffer after taking is to 800 grit. Hope this helps, Bob Sigmon |
#10
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Re: ughhh
Ropes, Ahhh, you don't have too keep the liners exactly the same size as the original profile. Get them bolted all together and then file or sand the whole thing to match side-to-side. No one will notice a 1mm change in outline. At the bottom rear, it protects the tip of the blade when closed, so this area needs to be kept pretty much alone. What's that line? "There are no mistakes in knifemaking--only smaller knives!" I used sandpaper, a buffing wheel and rouge to 'polish' my micarta scales and they are a nice smooth finish. But not polished. And I LIKE it like that. Nice grip. (I have a few pearl folders with a high polish. Yuk. They feel greasy.) Coop |
#11
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hmmm
Well I took a little to much G10 off part of the handle but I think I will just finish polishing the bolsters - I am at 600 grit and it is starting to look good. I am going to use this as my EDC so I am not to concerned with the little bit of stainless showing in one spot. But I will order some extra G10 when I order some wood and carbon for my next couple kits. John |
Tags |
blade, fixed blade, hunting knife, knife, knives |
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BCROB, chuckmc, Kutthroat |
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