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Old 08-13-2006, 05:58 PM
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Drilling ?

I know this has probably been ask before.I have made a butcap from ats34 and as usual forgot to drill the holes to afix it to the handle.Anyway during the making the cap became work hardened it just melts my drill bits.Have tried cobalt and titanium.Help please


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Old 08-13-2006, 06:06 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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What you need is called a straight flute carbide drill, one brand name for them is Hi-Roc. They come in every possible size from MSC and other places. They are much more expensive than regular drills but they will absolutly drill through a hardened blade and leave a precisely sized, clean, even hole when they do it ...


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Old 08-13-2006, 06:12 PM
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Thank-you so much.After all the file work I didn't want to make it again.


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Old 08-14-2006, 10:26 AM
Dan Graves Dan Graves is offline
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Use scale preventative and anneal. Best bet because after you drill it then you have to tap it and it will break your taps. Just my 2 cents.


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Old 08-14-2006, 08:17 PM
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OK,that sounds great.Now how do I do that.and where do I get scale preventative.I still have so much to learn.


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Old 08-14-2006, 08:32 PM
Dan Graves Dan Graves is offline
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You can get scale prevetitive from Brownell's. Heres the link.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/sto...ALE%20COMPOUND

You need to research anneal for ats34. Sorry I dont use it. I am sure someone here does.


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Old 08-14-2006, 08:51 PM
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I found a site that says to heat to 1850 f. for 30 min and let cool in wood ash.Does that sound right?


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Old 08-14-2006, 09:22 PM
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does your design allow you to weld a threaded tube/nut onto your buttcap? that way you dont have to do any machining, just weld it on and screw it to the tang
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Old 08-14-2006, 09:27 PM
Dan Graves Dan Graves is offline
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If you have a kiln heat to 1850 and then put steel in and turn kiln off and let sit all night and open in the morning. Wood ash will work but you get a slower heat reduction in the kiln. This is how I do high carbon steel. As I said before. Not sure of ATS34.


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