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  #1  
Old 11-03-2004, 03:55 PM
Mr Mike Mr Mike is offline
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Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 192
Talking Converting A Bandsaw

Gentlemen,

Do any of you have any experience converting an older Delta wood cutting bandsaw to metal cutting?

I would imagine that the blade speed needs to be slowed down considerably, any ideas how that could be accomplished?

I just acquired one of the older heavy duty Delta units, and as I already have a wood cutting bandsaw, I thought I might try to convert this new acquisition to metal cutting one.

Thanks in advance,
-Mr Mike



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  #2  
Old 11-04-2004, 05:58 AM
Tarl_cabot Tarl_cabot is offline
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Posts: 102
Thumbs up Converting Bandsaw

There was an article in a recent "Machinists Workshop" or one of the other Hobby Metalworking magazines recently on doing exactly that. I have it and will dig through my magazine stack to find the issue for you. Back issues are available I am sure!

Mike Roesch
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  #3  
Old 11-04-2004, 07:50 AM
Sweany's Avatar
Sweany Sweany is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Sand Springs OK
Posts: 2,303
Generally they use a jackshaft to slow the speed.

This was on the knifelist
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
I use what I think of as a compromise bandsaw for wood, micarta and non
ferrous metals. It's an older Rockwell made for wood that I reduced
the
speed on by putting in a jack-shaft to slow it down. I use the skip
tooth
metal cutting blades with eight teeth per inch. Cuts all handle
materials
and brass and nickel silver up to two inches. It has served me well for
over
thirty years set up as described. Granted, it's slower on wood than if
it
ran faster but doesn't have to have drive belts or blades changed for
90% of
what needs cut.
I've got an older bandsaw set up for steel, gear box and all that...
also
one of the flip-flop cheap saws, but it works great. The weak part on
these
is the gear box, be sure to keep it greased and to keep tight all the
stuff
that can come loose. What I've learned about the cheap import lathes,
mills,
saws and drill presses is that they need tender loving care in order to
make
them last. Most of the parts that would be heat treated steel on US
made
machines are cheap and soft castings on the imports. Keep that in mind
and
they will give years of use when not abused.

Wayne Goddard
wgoddard44@comcast.net


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  #4  
Old 11-04-2004, 04:34 PM
Wulf Wulf is offline
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Location: Vermont
Posts: 249
I just slapped a variable speed motor on a Delat 14" last week for that very purpose. Figured I could just switch out blades for whatever job I was doing and slow it way down on metal.

Problem is, I haven't been able to get any 93 1/2" metal cutting blades yet...


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  #5  
Old 11-04-2004, 09:47 PM
Mr Mike Mr Mike is offline
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Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 192
Thanks guys for your reply's, I thought that was what I needed to do (slow it down). There seems to be plenty of room under the saw, between it and the motor, where I can mount one or more "reducers".

Wulf, MSC carried metal cutting blades in ALL lengths, here is a listing of the 93?" blades (also known as 7' 9?" blades):

93?" metal cutting blades

Also, there is a great sort of tutorial on the MSC site on choosing the right blade for the cutting that you'll be doing:

Metal Cutting Blade Tutorial

Thanks again guys for your insight, I'll let you know how it comes out.

-Mr Mike


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Last edited by Mr Mike; 12-23-2004 at 08:46 PM.
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  #6  
Old 11-04-2004, 10:24 PM
Trick Trick is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Shelbyville IL
Posts: 18
Here are some pics of my $10 auction delta. It's a great story (for me ) but I will spare the details right now. I still thank God every time I use it though and love it to death.
Anywho, this ugly old t#rd came rigged up like it is but I swapped out the 1/4 horse motor that was on it for the 50? auction purchased (hey, I dig auctions) 1 1/2hp that is on it now. I do not know what the heck that thing is but have been told that it is a washer machine transmission. The lower off/on switch on the front switches speeds. Really slow and really fast. A couple months ago it started smoking bad. It smoked and only has one speed now, super slow. But I can put my weight into tool steel and can't bog it down much and that is only because I have old crappy blades. So I see no need to do anything about that now. I know that this was on there for decades like this. It wasn't just "rigged" and smoked because it was rigged, just because I left it plugged in and on with the saw off and it got hot. I used it almost a year before it did. You won't be able to use your belt cover. I will rig it variable when I get rich someday, but being poor white trash, it rocks right now the way it is on the cheap. You could probably go to any appliance repair shop and get it cheap or free.



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  #7  
Old 11-04-2004, 10:28 PM
Trick Trick is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Shelbyville IL
Posts: 18
It is hard to tell in the pictures but there are two belts on it and that "tranny" ain't right on top of the motor like it looks. It is a short belt from the trans to the motor, but it is probably a foot above the motor.
Ric
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  #8  
Old 03-25-2009, 10:31 PM
SamLS SamLS is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 149
If you limit yourself to 1/8 to 3/16" material you can set it up as a friction saw with a 18 tpi metal blade. The teeth will change shape and sparks will fly. Go to the highest fpm you can. If you don't believe me look up a Doall zephyer or friction sawing. It works well for pre hardened materials.
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  #9  
Old 04-01-2009, 11:34 AM
Jim Dannels Jim Dannels is offline
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Location: Colfax,Iowa
Posts: 55
I have a Delta 3 Wheel that I got back in the 70's(not one of their better ideas)(but after installing newtires it still does my woodworking fine) and I would have to look up the manual. But the manual showed the belt configuration to slow it down for steel work.
I also have a Welding Manual I got at Lowes that had instructions for slowing down a bandsaw for metal work. I'll look that up when I get home tonight.
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