MEMBER ITEMS FOR SALE
Custom Knives | Other Knives | General Items
-------------------------------------------
New Posts | New PhotosAll Photos



Go Back   The Knife Network Forums : Knife Making Discussions > Custom Knife Discussion Boards > Knife Making Discussions > The Newbies Arena

The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-09-2016, 04:25 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
Guru
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: putnam county NY ....about 45 mins north of new york city
Posts: 1,443
handles for cera coated knives....

So I have been playing with cera coat lately and I do like it it gives a real cool finish however it is very easy to spray on too much wich then you have to soak in acetone (DONT BAKE) and do it all over again but I am starting to get the hang of it, however handles have to be ground to fit before you paint other wise you will grind the paint off the tang when grinding handle material. so now basically you have a painted blade and finished handles to attach. now if I attached them like normal slathering acra glass epoxy all over I would have the same problem of grinding the paint off when trying to grind the epoxy off...ray I know we touched on this and you had said who cares if you grind a lil paint off (I wouldn't if it was for me but if its one to sell I don't want to have patches ground off) you also pointed out that a hidden tang would solve that problem and yes it would I need a lil more practice with those. so I have come up with a couple different options and wanted to see what every one thinks might be best. so option one attach the handle with a barrel in the middle and 2 screws holding it on and effectively making it a removable handle, option 2 put the handle on with Corby's alone and no epoxy,,,,option 3 same as option 2 but only putting a little of epoxy between the scale and tang but not enough that it would be oozing out the sides and require grinding to get it off....that's just what I have come up with if you got a better idea I am all ears....thanks guys
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-09-2016, 05:06 PM
Ray Rogers's Avatar
Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
Founding Member / Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,788
When I said who cares if you grind off a bit of paint while finishing the handle I didn't mean for you to leave the bare metal. Get a little paint brush and refinish the tang after the handle is done. That's what I did with Moly-Kote. If the handle is something that can handle the heat like Micarta or G-10 I even baked the knife after painting the tang although that isn't really necessary. Just tape off the tang and paint it...


__________________

Your question may already have been answered - try the Search button first!






Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-09-2016, 05:50 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
Guru
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: putnam county NY ....about 45 mins north of new york city
Posts: 1,443
that's what I wondered about I asked cera coat they told me that cera coat is not very good doing touch ups with a brush but he did say it can be done it just may scratch easier than if sprayed i aint too worried about that but cera coat does need to be baked at 250 deg....I didn't know if number one what types of handle material would be ok with that temp if I did go back and paint it. g10 and micarta you do think will be ok? obviously not something like inlace acrlester that stuff gets flexible even on a grinder. but also number two if I did it like normal with g10 (assuming g10 would be ok with the heat????) but if I epoxied it on with acra glass would the acra glass be ok I wasn't sure if the heat would make that stuff get soft and start oozing out ( I could be totally wrong about that just something that went through my head) have you ever tried heating that epoxy? if it wont react well do you know of any other epoxy that will take the heat ok?? maybe ill just paint a couple lil squares like coupons and test it with some scrap g10 I have laying around with different epoxy's and see what happens when I heat it. maybe a different type of glue like gorilla might work well
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-09-2016, 05:54 PM
Andrew Garrett's Avatar
Andrew Garrett Andrew Garrett is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Nampa, Idaho
Posts: 3,579
The way I do it:

I tape off the blade.
I use mini-Corbys and epoxy.
I use a paper towel and Q-tips dampened with alcohol to wipe away all 'squeeze-out' immediately.
Let cure.
Carefully grind off the excess Corby head without building excess heat and destroying the epoxy bond.

Sand or polish those heads as needed once flush with finished scale surface.


__________________
Andy Garrett
https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl
Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association
www.kansasknives.org

"Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions."
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-09-2016, 06:13 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
Guru
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: putnam county NY ....about 45 mins north of new york city
Posts: 1,443
Andrew I assume the handle material is ground to finist and fitted? in the past (on blades that haven't been painted) when I put the knife in a vise not bery tight just really to hold it I usually do it tip up and wipe the front...even if I wipe the sides and bottom there is always some that driped out the bottom when I come back the next day on a non paited blade this is fine sine the handle still needs to be ground to finish wich takes off the excess epoxy but if it was painted I would end up grinding part of the paint in the process. unless I sit there and keep wiping until its completely dry I think I am going to have to end up doing some touchup so I gota find out if this epoxy can take the heat of re baking the paint
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-09-2016, 06:36 PM
Andrew Garrett's Avatar
Andrew Garrett Andrew Garrett is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Nampa, Idaho
Posts: 3,579
The epoxy will most likely break down in the heat of baking.

I finish my handles and polish almost all of it. I avoid polishing the corby holes because the action of the buffer will round the edges of the holes and they will not be flush when I grind down the corby-heads later. This takes care and finesse.

Once I've finished the handle to the dimensions of the tang, I disassemble and paint (I use Duracoat on some of mine).

I have not had any issues with additional squeeze out after the initial wipe down. Just make sure you get it all and have some voids inside the handle to give the epoxy someplace to go--and don't over-tighten. You don't want a 'glue-starved' joint.


__________________
Andy Garrett
https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl
Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association
www.kansasknives.org

"Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions."
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-09-2016, 06:37 PM
Ray Rogers's Avatar
Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
Founding Member / Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,788
I think AcraGlas will take the 250 degrees for a short period of time that it takes to bake the paint but a test would be in order. I've baked Micarta handles at 300F with no ill effects but my glue was safely encapsulated inside a stub tang handle .

Granted that the baked paint will wear a little better but if the knife gets used the paint is coming off that tang whether its baked or not...


__________________

Your question may already have been answered - try the Search button first!






Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-09-2016, 06:57 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
Guru
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: putnam county NY ....about 45 mins north of new york city
Posts: 1,443
ok thanks guys ill deffinitly have some testing to do cera coat requires 250 degrees for 2 hours....it does say in the training manual you can "quick"cure at 300 degrees for 1 hour they also say you can "fash" it at 150 degrees for 5-15 min however the flash it says is only used if say you were to paint it black then flash the stecil another color on top then cure...even if you flash it it still have to cure it after....I guess it will come down to a bunch of testing (seems that happens a lot) ill let ya know what I figure out
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-09-2016, 07:02 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
Guru
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: putnam county NY ....about 45 mins north of new york city
Posts: 1,443
oh I forgot I read on another forum that jb weld can withstand 700 degrees is there any truth to that? seems like alota heat for epoxy maybe only for a minute?? if so do you think the clear version would be the same?
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-09-2016, 07:19 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
Guru
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: putnam county NY ....about 45 mins north of new york city
Posts: 1,443
did some research jb weld can withstand 500 degrees of constant temp according to there site but it does not say for the clear stuff
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 08-09-2016, 11:50 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
Hall of Famer
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Decatur, IL
Posts: 2,556
I ran into a similar problem when I put dyed bone scales on an acid blued tang and pommel. I shaped the scales and marked them right and left and dyed the scales while I acid blued the tang. The acid bluing took about two weeks. I thin smeared the tang with epoxy, pinned the scales on with 1/4" pins, and clamped them in place. Then I very carefully and thoroughly wiped off any seeping epoxy with WD-40 on paper towels and Q-tips. After the epoxy cured I carefully filed the pins flat.

Doug


__________________
If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 08-10-2016, 07:47 AM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
Skilled
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: NC Mountains
Posts: 469
dtec1 I'm not sure I understand your question but it sounds like this reply in my O-1 thread may be addressing what you are asking. Seems since you use stainless steel and synthetic handle material, would it not work to screw them on, finish and shape everything, then take the scales off and do your blade finish, then screw the handle scales back on and forget about epoxy?

From Bob Hatfield, post #15 on this thread: http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=66610

I have been making some tactical knives for our local police dept. SWAT team out of 0-1. I normally use D-2 and S30V for my hunting knives. I harden the 0-1 at 1500 degrees for 15 minutes in a digital controlled kiln and quench in Brownell's "Tough quench" oil that has been heated to 125-135 degrees.
Then into a toaster oven at 375-400 degrees for one hour until my kiln cools down. Out of the toaster oven and allowed to cool to room temp then into the kiln for a 2 hour temper at 400 degrees. I use a separate temp gauge in the toaster oven to verify the correct temperature.
Out of the last 10 knives I am getting a reading on my hardness tester of 59-60 RC with the majority dead on at 60 RC.
Do not swirl the knife in the oil as I did on one knife and got a warp in the blade where it had been hollow ground to about 40 thousands. By not swirling the other knives in the oil, they came out with no warps and straight as they should be.
I finish the knives with removable linen micarta handle scales and give the steel a baked on coat of Brownell's Gun Kote for rust resistance. Having removable handle scales allows me to refinish the knife in the future with a new coat of Gun Kote and bake at 300 degrees if needed.


edit to add: This may work http://www.knifemaking.com/category-s/1332.htm


__________________
Find me on Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/gpopecustomknives/

Gloria In Excelsis Deo!!

Last edited by WNC Goater; 08-10-2016 at 08:04 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 08-10-2016, 08:34 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
Guru
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: putnam county NY ....about 45 mins north of new york city
Posts: 1,443
yeh thanks guys you both are talking about almost the same thing wether its with screws or bolts and is removable or not main thing is no epoxy I have realized this is a option. I was not sure about that what I may do besides testing epoxy in the oven is make a knife with removable scales and abuse the hell out of it make sure it stays on good and tight...thanks again
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
bee, blade, coat, easy, epoxy, fixed blade, grind, grinding, handle, handle material, handles, hidden, hidden tang, knife, knives, making, material, paint, problem, scale, screws, sell, spray, tang, weld


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Joe Cera work Don Cowles Fine Embellishment 6 01-30-2006 06:20 AM
Clay Coated Bowie Gary Mulkey The Display Case 4 04-28-2005 10:33 AM
Money Clip by Joe Cera Tim Adlam Fine Embellishment 3 03-08-2005 08:14 PM
Cera para cabo tomauricio SBC Forum (Sociedade Brasileira de Cuteleiros) 3 11-18-2003 08:16 AM
DDR Venturi Bowie [DLC Coated] ExamonLyf Balisong Discussions 11 06-26-2003 04:08 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:09 AM.




KNIFENETWORK.COM
Copyright © 2000
? CKK Industries, Inc. ? All Rights Reserved
Powered by ...

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
The Knife Network : All Rights Reserved