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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 08-05-2016, 04:47 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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another try with a hidden tang??

OK so I am making another attempt at a hidden tang so what I have for the handle is a black micarta block. I am going to put a couple pieces of g10 spacer or maybe a thin piece of brass not sure yet at the front of the handle. but I also want to put more spacer or brass about halfway down the handle. so basicly I have to cut the block in half to put the spacer in. so my question is what would be the better way to go. should I cut the block now epoxy the spacer material in between to make a new solid block. then start as if it was a un touched block. Or should I start drilling the slot and get that all done then cut and epoxy in the spacers as I epoxy in the whole handle? I am just not sure what would be better to get the slots and pin hole to line up and I only have one black block right now so I don't want to mess it up and have to wait to get another
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Old 08-05-2016, 05:38 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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You saw my video on making a kitchen knife with a hidden tang handle. In that video I put a spacer of different material at the front of the handle. I could have just as easily cut the handle block in half and put a spacer in the middle. The only difference is how long the tang has to be. You saw me assemble the handle a piece at a time and glue it as I went. You can do the same with the handle you want to make.....


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Old 08-05-2016, 05:48 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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yeh I remember the video I see how to assemble it, maybe I worded my question a lil wrong, I guess what I ment is do I drill the slot out then cut, stack and epoxy, OR should I cut stack and epoxy block and spacer togather before drilling out that slot, then drill and epoxy on to tang after the block and spacers dry togather again I guess it can be done either way but like I said I only have one of those blocks right now so I am worried abouyt doing it one way or another and ending up having the holes not line up so wich way would I have a better chance at keeping al the holes and slots alligned
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Old 08-05-2016, 07:29 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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It doesn't really matter about the hole if the spacer is going to be in the middle the hole can be off a little and you wouldn't see it. Just make the spacer wider than the block and sand the excess off after gluing it all together. If you glue it before drilling I doubt the brass would hold together anyway without a tang going through it and it would be easier to drill out small pieces than one big long one. Are you putting a threaded pommel on the end or are you going to pin the tang?
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Old 08-05-2016, 07:53 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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I thk what I may do is cut the block and glue in a piece of reg g10 in the middle then when it dries drill it and instead of bras use a piece of 416 steel like a guard....I plan on pinning the handle in
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Old 08-05-2016, 08:11 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I understood what you were asking, that's why I said glue it up as you assemble the pieces. Jim is right that the pre-glued block will likely come apart if you try doing the drilling after gluing. Glue it as you assemble it and shape it after the glue sets...just like in the video ...


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Old 08-06-2016, 09:39 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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ok sorry I misunderstood you then....ill try it that way when I tought about it I thought maybe the drill going through the micarta then all of a sudden hitting brass or steel could cause a problem but figured if it was just g10 or something similar it wouldn't matter much but ill try drilling first then gluing
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Old 08-06-2016, 11:56 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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So I made a lil progress maybe??....I had a premade alum guard form a supplies site however the slot is slightly to big so I made another out of a bar and guess what I did yep made the slot to big well one way it to wide the length fits perfect when I hammer it down...s I guess what ill cover that small gap the best solder? maybe epoxy? or do I have to make another guard??? any tips
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Old 08-06-2016, 12:35 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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If I make the guard to big, I just make another guard, but if it is just a little too wide then you may be able to hammer it thinner, but if it's too long? Blade should hide that. Filling it depends on how big the gap is, you don't say, but if it's only about the thickness of a piece of paper then epoxy or solder will be fine. If it's thicker than 1/32" then make a new guard as it will be obvious.

Here is a trick and don't tell anyone I told you, but before you put the guard on, solder a bead around the front of the guard and sand flat and carefully file it to fit with a needle file.

I almost never make a slot too big as I lay out the hole ahead and scribe my center line and the centerline of the drill size I use. I counter punch them carefully and put into a small vise that fits on my cross slide table. My table is like a mini mill table with little hold down blocks and every thing. I have number drills too, some carbide like a #30 which is .128 a nice clearance for an 1/8 pin. through a hardened hidden tang so no missing the hole. I go thru the wood and tang all at once. Remember when drilling stainless or hardened material, slow RPM is your friend.

Oh to add something, I never make a guard out of aluminum as you can't solder it and it dulls up fast and I never buy pre-made guards as they almost never fit right I guess as I have never actually bought one as they cost too much. Just like premade sheaths, $20+ for a plain one?!!

Last edited by jimmontg; 08-06-2016 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 08-09-2016, 08:38 AM
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C Craft C Craft is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Rogers View Post
You saw my video on making a kitchen knife with a hidden tang handle. In that video I put a spacer of different material at the front of the handle. I could have just as easily cut the handle block in half and put a spacer in the middle. The only difference is how long the tang has to be. You saw me assemble the handle a piece at a time and glue it as I went. You can do the same with the handle you want to make.....



Ray is the video you reference a YouTube video. I have my first hidden tang knife in the planning stage and I saw something on another forum that has my mind questioning what I thought I knew about hidden tang knives!

So I am looking for more reference material as "How To" when it comes to hidden tang knives!!

So if you have some references I would appreciate a link that!

Not trying to steal anyone's thread just looking for the same info and more!!


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With every custom knife I build I try to accomplish three things. I want that knife to look so good you just have to pick it up, feel so good in your hand you can't wait to try it, and once you use it, you never want to put it down !
If I capture those three factors in each knife I build, I am assured the knife will become a piece that is used and treasured by its owner!

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Old 08-09-2016, 12:06 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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The referenced video is a DVD called Shop Chef. In it, I make a 10" chef's knife start to finish. I use a single pin stub hidden tang and provide detailed step by step on how to build it and make sure it is tight. I use this handle style on all my hunters and even most camp knives. The video is $15.

Or, if you prefer written instructions you can get what you need from this: http://www.rayrogers.com/stubtang.htm


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assemble, block, brass, drill, epoxy, fixed blade, g10, guard, handle, hidden, hidden tang, how to, kitchen knife, knife, make, making, material, micarta, sand, spacer, spacers, steel, supplies, tang, video


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