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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #46  
Old 11-07-2015, 11:10 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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It could be done either way. Most often mild steel is used because it won't harden and that makes it easier to drill tang holes. Use whichever steel suits your purpose and the knife's design best ...


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  #47  
Old 11-07-2015, 11:24 AM
jmccustomknives jmccustomknives is offline
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Let me tell you what's going to happen if you don't do it right, you'll weld a tang on then it's going to break. If you do weld it preheat the steel and weld it (use the mild steel). Then heat it back up to an orange heat and work the weld with a light hammer. I braze the threads because of that. Test the weld before assembling.
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  #48  
Old 11-07-2015, 08:50 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Hey Ray...you are pritty good at making folders right? do you actully make the handle parts of make the blade and put the parts togather well either way you got a real good understanding of them right? curious about something maybe you can help i need the help of a picture to describe my question tho so ill post it tomorow....remember i couldnt find camera well my mother has it ill get it tomorow
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  #49  
Old 11-07-2015, 09:15 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Jm ok let me say i am not the best welder there is not saying i am bad i am ok but i am sure there are people out there that weld all day everyday that are better than me. As far as brazing never done it dont even really know how it works. you take a bronze (or maybe silver) rod heat up the 2 pieces of metal with a torch (i dont know what kind propane, mapp gas, oxy acetylene????) then melt in the rod under the torch? Is this something i should think about maybe get the materials and just try it out on some scrap for a lil while and see if i could do it? do you think i would be able to achieve a stronger bond (with a lil practice) than welding with the MIG or flux core rig? or is it something that would take to long to learn to achieve a decent result? i did just do a quick search for stores near me to get the rods the only thing is a home depot they have 3 options.... licoln electric 1/8 in. Flux-Coated Brazing Rods (1 lb. tube) or Bernzomatic WB5 Bronze Flux Coated Brazing and Welding Rods or Bernzomatic AL3 Aluminum Brazing and Welding Rods....i may be getting ahead of my self the only reason i ask is because i had a neighbor that learned this skill on the job and he had said it was a quick learn ( he also knew how to weld) he offered to teach me but we never got around to it.....what do ya think is it worth playing around with for any results with this knife or no....if not is it a skill that you use often is it worth learning for future projects?? i should also say i dont have oxy acetylene i do have propane and mapp gas with a swirl flame torch
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  #50  
Old 11-08-2015, 05:49 AM
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JM is right and yes worth the trouble. Not hard to learn as long as you learn to read the heat and flux properly.


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  #51  
Old 11-08-2015, 09:37 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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ok what type of rods should i get? now i would attach it in the same way as a MIG or Flux Core welder....just join at the seams of the tang and blade?
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  #52  
Old 11-08-2015, 10:14 AM
jmccustomknives jmccustomknives is offline
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Back when I'd weld the tang on it way by mig. Done before heat treat. Weld the tang on then while it was still hot heat it back up to red/orange and with a light hammer work the weld over. Your not really trying to move the metal, just refining the grain. Test it afterwards. Welding on high carbon steels will cause hardening around the weld zone that is very brittle.

For brazing "Stay silv 45 or 56" will work just fine. It has a tensile strength of 60-70k. I use some special nickel/copper alloy for tool steels that's a little stronger but it's not necessary.
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  #53  
Old 11-08-2015, 10:30 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Alright guys Thanks...Gota go with my dad to my sisters house .....right next to home depot and a lil no name (non chain) hardware store ill pick up some stuff while i out thanks again
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  #54  
Old 11-09-2015, 06:25 AM
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I like to "key" my joints for stronger bonds. Slot the larger piece with a 1/3 slot in center, shape the smaller piece to fit in the slot tightly, then braze the joint.

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  #55  
Old 11-09-2015, 10:41 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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hey guys so when at home depot i ended up buying a bernzomatic oxy/map gas torch kit. While i was looking at brazing rods my dad said he was thinking about getting one to so we got one....so it came with 2 copper phosphorous rods, 2 steel (both of those are very thin), and a little bit thicker bronze flux coated rod. I also purchased bernzomatic AL3 aluminum welding and brazing rods, bernzomatic WB5 bronze flux coated brazing and welding rods, Lincoln Electric 1/8 in flux coated brazing rods. i am putting the links to home depot site on these products so you guys can know exactly what i am talking about. Can i use any of these with good results....that is all they had and the other no name store only had the same bronze ones...the bernzomatic wb5 bronze have a 60,000 psi rating but the others dont say anything about a rating on them. Ok i dont know how true this is and the guy at home depot didnt seem like he knew what he was talking about but i dont know either. I asked him about the silver rods cause i did see them he told me they didnt have any but he told me that i could use a thick silver soldering wire. Is there any truth to that i got alot of that stuff lying around. Solder is something i learned very very young from my dad he used to have a lil side business at the house working with C.B. Radios (fixing buying selling) and he used to solder all the time but i have never had to solder something where it needs to be a STRONG bond ya know your not going to be putting stess and impacts to a CB radio. Basicly what i was thinking about doing is just putting 2 small little tack welds with the flux core welder then brazing the rest will any of these rods do the deal or that silver solder idea work?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomat...4491/203710179

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomat...4490/203710172

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-E...H515/202715833
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  #56  
Old 11-09-2015, 05:53 PM
jmccustomknives jmccustomknives is offline
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You'll need to get the silver from a welding supply or net. Here's a version of what I use. http://www.airgas.com/product/Weldin...ge/p/HAR56KPOP
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  #57  
Old 11-10-2015, 09:59 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Thanks JM i think i am going to have to put this on hold for a while and order some as home depot only has the rods that i showed you and "silver bearing" wire but the silver is only like 1 % so i am assuming that is not as good as i need i think is more of a electrical solder even tho it say metal work on it...just curious say i get the right wire and braze it on and somehow somewhere it breaks it would only break at the joint right i could grind/clean and do it again right? just wondering cause as i said my brazing experience is pritty much non existent i will play around with iit before i actuly do it but still i wont be a pro
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  #58  
Old 11-10-2015, 10:11 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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i did a search and found a welding supply store somewhat close i went on there web site and it didnt list specific products just brands the "stay silv" was not on the list is there any way to tell what i would need from another brand examples.. % of silver (or other metal) tensil strength ect.. i dont want to spend the time going all the way over to this place and come home with the wrong product
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  #59  
Old 11-10-2015, 05:43 PM
jmccustomknives jmccustomknives is offline
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45 or 56% silver is what you need. The Harris stuff is kind of like Coke, "Staysilv" is their name but it gets used for similar products. The difference between solder and brazing is temperature. Brazing occurs at a higher temp and is much stronger. You can use solder for guard joints but don't use it for holding anything together. A little silver goes a long way.
The temps used are a narrow range. When your at the right temp it flows like water, towards the heat.
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  #60  
Old 11-10-2015, 07:53 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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so yeh the guy told me on the phone that it was $38 so i get there and its $38 a ounce and they only have 5 ounce packages (you would think he would of said that on the phone there is a huge difference from $38 to $200) so yeh i didnt have that kinda money he ended up giving me a package of 15% silver rods for free cause he "felt bad i dove all the way there" i said well yopu feel so bad why dont ya open that package up and sell me a ounce lets just say that wasnt going to happen...my dad did think to ask my uncle he used to do alot of brazing so i did and he said he might have some high silver but wasnt sure he would have to look (i doubt that any way he used to work alot he was one of those "fix everything" guys but he aint done nothing in a long time. i was thinking about just MIG or flux core welding the blade to the mild steel ( i know you guys said to use mild steel for brazing but same thing for weld or should i use a piece of 1084 or does it matter?) tang/handle wich i was worried about it looking like crap (my weld will stick that for sure but i havent mastered making them look real nice and smooth) but i was thinking about taking 2 pieces of brass sheet and cutting finger grooves and also using them to hide the welds and i thought maybe i could braze them on with what i got either the bronze or 15% silver (whats better) since they wouldnt be under as much stess as the tang to blade joint would be. think it could work? i think so and the brass sheet would add to the visual factor i dont really got any other option so ill just take it 1 step at a time and see what happens
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