Questions??

[RYAN BAILEY]

Hey guys,

Just checking in. Just wondering if I could help anyone or if anyone has any questions. Things are going great and I'm here to answer any questions you may have.

[JLaw]

Evening!

I have one question you may be able to provide a little insight on here...http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=45697.

Thank you very much,

JLaw

[jorvik]

Well one thing I'd like to ask is how safe are the materials that we use for handle scales etc? I see lots of comments on knife sites about using respirators and goggles. I believe with cocabola wood you can develop respirotory problems ..and I have heard similar for carbon fibre.................so just how dangerous are these materials?...could you rsk serious health problems if you sanded cocobola without a respirator ?.......could you develop a life threatening illness?

[shroomlad]

Jorvic

I found a site that shows the toxicity of the woods we use for our handles back when I was working with purpleheart and I've got to tell you its amazing what this stuff could do to our bodies http://www.mimf.com/archives/toxic.htm as for carbon fiber as we sand it the fibers get airborne and we breath them once they get into our lungs thats it they stay there, imagine how fiberglass feels on the skin all itchy and stuff its penetrating the skin now in the lungs it does the same thing and over time it can cause serious problems. In addition to the actual wood dust, molds frequently trigger reactions, too. One that actually grows in wood happens to be extremely potent: Cryptostroma corticale. This mold lives happily between the bark and sapwood of many hardwood trees, especially favoring maple and birch. It's responsible for the marbleized spalting that woodturners prize, and for "maple bark stripper's disease," a condition with all the symptoms of a severe respiratory allergy. Dust masks are a must when sanding or working with any wood exotic or not.

[Osprey Guy]

Just like every other aspect of knifemaking, safety is a must. And protecting ourselves from the dust we make ranks right up there.

In knifemaking we sand and scrape and grind a host of different materials. Whether it's steel dust, titanium dust, or any of the wide-ranging list of handle materials...all have the potential to cause harm.

I keep two air filters running 24/7 in my shop. They're small, the type you can find at any Target or Walmart for around $40 bucks. But with one placed at each end they keep the air of my shop clean.

But those filters don't protect me from the dust I'm breathing when working in close proximity to the dust I am making. Without exception, when I'm generating any form of dust I'll take a moment to put on some type of respirator, and protective eyewear. No exceptions. Ever. I use several different dust masks/respirators. I'm not going to sit here and list all the different types of respirators. There are good ones, great ones, and those that are not-so-good.

The types that fall into the latter category are cheap "nuisance" dusk masks that are found at any hardware store. While they may help to keep larger particles that can irritate your throat, or cause you to sneeze, they are not going to protect you from the smaller particles that can really do the damage. For most of what knifemaking activities we should be wearing a respirator with a filter that's rated for organic compounds.

Having said that, When I'm working for hours at a time doing "close-up" work (such as filework, or detailed carving), I don't want to be encumbered by a heavy respirator. Awhile back, I put in a fair amount of time researching the variety of disposable "dusk masks" on the market, and I came up with two that do a much more thorough job then the masks found at most of the home improvement stores.

The masks are both made by 3M...models #8233 and #8293. Both of these masks carry a "100" rating (as opposed to the "95" rating found on most other quality dust masks). That means they are rated to filter out 100% of particulates that are larger than 0.3 microns. One of the two masks, #8293 is rated "P100" which means that it's rated to handle oil particles. I've used both. They're both priced about the same (around $8.00 each, depending on where you buy them). They're comfortable to wear for long periods and used in combination with my air filters, I feel that they provide me with a reasonable amount of protection for most of my knifemaking tasks.

Note: The above masks DO NOT provide protection against noxious gases that can sometimes be generated when certain materials (such as Titanium) are heated. For those situations I definitely wear a half mask respirator with Organic rated filters.


Dennis

[jorvik]

Thanks for the responces guys. I must say that when I heard about the health aspects of knife making it stopped me dead in my tracks...I was sanding some cocabola at the time.(out of doors with a wind blowing), but it still gave me pause for thought....and I'd almost finished the knife, I did think about changing the handle to Corian.. however I've just bought a mask which I can use for "low level toxic" dust, so I'm thinking that might work. but I'll probably use it outdoors again. I don't think that I can get airfilters in my country.they don't seem to cater overmuch for knifemakers.

[El Dorado]

Ryan,

Earlier I posted a question re: the bolster material on a DDR-3BL

http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=45605

I am trying to find out why my method did not turn out ie: was it me or was it the bolster material? Someone thought they were cast vs rolled material which would be an explanation of why I got the results I got.

[RYAN BAILEY]

As for your question jlaw. I have never put a slipjoint together personally. The lock back isn't that hard to make and I would probably start with it. The slip joints just seem like they are a little more involved. That being said, materials that we use for knife making can be very dangerous. I would wear a respirator for all sanding. CF, G-10, wood...It's all bad stuff when you breathe it. I am just as guilty as the next guy of taking that pain in the butt respirator off, but the more you breathe of that stuff, the quicker you die.
Steve, the reason you were given about the bolsters not turning out on that knife is probably correct. Certain finishes will only work on certain materials. Carbon can be blued with one chemical but the same may not work for all types of stainless. That sort of thing.

[Some1New]

Ryan -

Any hints on things coming down the pipe? I don't know why I ask I've still got five kits that aren't finished yet. If the mini-DDR3 comes out I'd like to get one of those to work on.

Thanks,
Eric

[El Dorado]

Originally Posted by RYAN BAILEY

Eldorado, certain materials will only finish with certain chemicals. Carbons will blue with one chemical but the same chemical wont necessarily work for stainless. That sort of thing.

Caswell Stainless blackener is used specifically for stainless. It worked well on all parts except the Bolsters. While not an expert on stainless, I am very familiar with the casting process. When I cast precious metals, surface irregularities and porosity are an indication of a problemsome and a second rate casting. Though you might be interested in this issue to pass along to the QC folks.

[RYAN BAILEY]

Thanks Steve, will do. The bolsters are rather porous, but will take a nice hand rub finish. Eric, I'm not really at liberty to discuss new projects but this will be the first place we announce them for sure!!

[shroomlad]

Ryan -
I was wondering if you all still sell a spare screw kit for the ddr2's?

[RYAN BAILEY]

Shroomlad,
We have the ddr2 Replacement screws and you can order them through the website.

[TheClash]

i have two questions:

1. i have been working with cocobolo a bit the last few days.....and i seem to have developed some small little hives on my arms and neck.....could this be from the cocobolo? should i be concerned? any remedies?

2. does knifekits have any of the matte black folders in stock anymore?

[Shakudo]

There are many woods people get reactions from,most exotics are worse than native north American varieties. A good respirator should be worn in any dust area. see link for more wood info.

http://www.riparia.org/toxic_woods.htm