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Heat Treating and Metallurgy Discussion of heat treatment and metallurgy in knife making.

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  #1  
Old 09-24-2008, 08:49 PM
EdStreet EdStreet is offline
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heat treat pricing at local shop

I found a local shop here that has a big oven (tall as I am, measurements are 16 x 12 or there about. Said they would be glad to heat treat a full load for me for $60. Am guessing around 10-15 blanks could go in there.

I looked at their setup and they have this 55g drum of quenching oil they use and really seem to know their heat treatment. I printed off some papers I found in the searches on schedules and he looked them over and said that's not a problem and what he does anyways.

Price wise is this a good deal or not? I am going to start with 440C and 154CM then work my way up from there.

Ed


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Gold is for the mistress - silver for the maid
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Old 09-25-2008, 01:01 AM
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chiger chiger is offline
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Sounds good to me Ed.

I know I've seen some treaters charge 5 bucks or more for each blade. That's 50 bucks for 10 blades plus shipping cost. Probably another 20 dollars or more. That's 70 or more.

60 bucks sound reasonable and local is good.

chiger,
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  #3  
Old 09-25-2008, 01:22 AM
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mete mete is offline
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For 154CM and 440C oven should mean vacuum oven !! How would the blades be put in the oven , exactly how quenched [agitated] ? The details are important !
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  #4  
Old 09-25-2008, 08:03 AM
EdStreet EdStreet is offline
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I printed off this
http://www.evenheat-kiln.com/technic.../heattreat.htm

Quote:
440C S.S. Heat Treat Procedure: Special Thanks to Koval Knives for this Information

1. Wrap blades in tool wrap. Double crimp all edges of the foil being careful to avoid having even a pin hole in the foil. You may double wrap fro extra assurance of locking out all oxygen. You may wrap the blades with 5-6 stacked side by side or individually wrap and place in an optional furnace rack. This rack will hold the blades in an upright position for minimizing warpage.

2. After placing the blades in the furnace heat to 1850?F. After reaching 1850?F start timing the soak time of 20 to 25 minutes. Evenheats' Set-Pro control can be programmed to automatically soak, for any amount of time desired, once temperature is reached.

3. After the soak time has elapsed, carefully slide the blades on a steel grate or heavy wire mesh for room temperature cooling (This is the air quench). Place aside for cooling. The grate or wire mesh will allow air to circulate under the blades as well as around them for uniform quenching.

4. While the blades are cooling leave the furnace door open and allow it to come down to 220?F. Sometimes the blades willed be cooled before the furnace comes down. In this case keep the blades warm (place near the furnace door) or you may use the kitchen oven for drawing. It is important on all grades that they do not cool much below the 125?F temperature before drawing.

5. After placing the blades in the 220?F temperature they should remain at this heat for 2 hours. Evenheats' Set-Pro control can be programmed to automatically soak, for any amount of time desired, once temperature is reached.

6. Pull the blades out for cooling and place them back at 200?F again for 2 hours. Evenheats' Set-Pro control can be programmed to automatically soak, for any amount of time desired, once temperature is reached.

7. Check harness. You should have approx. 59 RC.

For extra stability you may freeze the blades in dry ice for one hour. This will also increase the hardness a point or two.

Note: All the above procedure is based on our own experience realizing there are others using their own trial-error. All equipment must be calibration checked periodically. There are no "short-cuts" for proper heat treating. Always exercise care and precaution.
He looked over it and said that's exactly how he is doing lots of 440. He uses the foil stuff as well.


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Gold is for the mistress - silver for the maid
Copper for the craftsman cunning in his trade.
"Good!" said the Baron, sitting in his hall
But steel - cold steel is master of them all.
Rudyard Kipling (1865 - 1936)
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Old 09-25-2008, 08:23 AM
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mete mete is offline
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That seems OK. I would prefer individual wrap. 220F is the lower limit of tempering.
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  #6  
Old 09-25-2008, 10:07 AM
EdStreet EdStreet is offline
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He did mention individual wraps and quench each one by hand.


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Gold is for the mistress - silver for the maid
Copper for the craftsman cunning in his trade.
"Good!" said the Baron, sitting in his hall
But steel - cold steel is master of them all.
Rudyard Kipling (1865 - 1936)
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  #7  
Old 10-27-2008, 04:22 PM
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Txcwboy Txcwboy is offline
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why a vacuum oven ? ( had never heard of them till I just looked it up) The evenheat and paragons types arent vacuum but you can do 440c in them ?

Dave
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  #8  
Old 10-28-2008, 09:58 AM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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If he's going to quench in his 55 gal. drum of quenching oil, he doesn't have any idea how to heat treat air hardening steels.

And that's not a large furnace. Sounds like a local machine shop.

This isn't a professional heat treating setup. I wouldn't trust him.

Send your blades to Texas Knifemakers Supply or any of the other heat treaters who specialize in air hardening steels.

Last edited by Don Robinson; 10-28-2008 at 10:00 AM.
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  #9  
Old 10-28-2008, 10:11 AM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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The Evenheat instructions leave a lot to be desired. The tempering temp. info is wrong. They mention dry ice, but leave out the FACT that if the steel is placed in dry ice, the steel MUST be tempered afterwards.

Google Crucible Steel heat treat instructions and look up the chart for your steel. It will be different than the one you have, but correct. ATS34, 154CM are heat treated exactly the same.

Sorry for the rant, Ed, but misleading info makes me boil if it is published by a manufacturer.

Now, either send your blades to someone who really knows what they're doing or learn the correct way to do it yourself. Do it yourself and we'll help any way we can.

Last edited by Don Robinson; 10-28-2008 at 10:13 AM.
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