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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #16  
Old 03-10-2001, 11:35 AM
MIKE KOLLER
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Re: Etching Plans


Now on a more serious note:
I like the looks of a stamped blade but after seeing some of the pictures posted I am begining to like etched also,so here is mt question.
How deep are the etches being made and can you control them and get a really deep etch that will last through some serious wear and tear?
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  #17  
Old 03-10-2001, 01:59 PM
MJHKNIVES
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Re: Etching Plans


Mike,a good etching machine w/etch.010-.015 with 12-18 dabs of the handpiece,you would have to grind deep to get it out.It will last.Mike
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  #18  
Old 03-10-2001, 04:58 PM
Bill Foote
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Re: Etching Plans


You said "dabs". I left mine on the blade. Does dabbing help get a more even etch? I've only tried it a couple times. What voltage is good? And I wonder if installing a rheostat to control the current is an important thing to do.
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  #19  
Old 03-10-2001, 05:55 PM
BCB27
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Re: Etching Plans


Bill,

I 'dab' my stencil to keep the heat down. If the stencil gets too hot, it gets fuzzy around the edges and doesn't give a crisp etch. It does depend quite a bit on the current, though. I run mine at 25V and 6A, which is quite high.

Brett
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  #20  
Old 03-11-2001, 07:58 PM
Tnbowie
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I build etching machines to etch the logo in steel . The best way to get a deep etch is to have a 12.5volts at 3amps ==it clean and will etch deep and crisp the reason that you have fussy etches is the 25volts is to hot and its evaporating the etchent before it has a chance to work on the steel they should work together , and when they do you will get a better etch and deeper at a faster rate
Power is not what this is about , ==turn down the power and you will get better results and less burns and it want be fussy if you are having to sand it afterwards its to hot or the pad is to wet and you have held it to the work to long the best is 5 sec. on 5 sec off repeat till you get the deep etch you want
Bowie
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  #21  
Old 03-12-2001, 01:00 AM
BCB27
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Bowie,

My etches come out fine now. I built the etcher from plans at a time when I didn't know better, and it is not adjustable, except for AC/DC. I was thinking about changing to an 12V transformer, but I am pretty much used to the thing now. I just take real quick 'dabs' with the handpiece.

Brett
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  #22  
Old 03-20-2001, 07:03 PM
Bob Warner
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This discussion could also be in Geno's area of tools but since it started here, here it should stay here. Since marking knives is also a hot topic with new makers I guess it really belongs here.

I built my exposure unit and developing station and have made many stencils. The last photo-stencil material I bought was from Electro-chem-etch and it was quite expensive. I have used it all up making custom stencils for etching "In Memory" and "Happy Anniversary" among other things on knives. I need to buy more but am looking for a different supplier. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know. What does Marking methods charge?

Are you guys making the stencils yourselves or buying them pre-made? They are really easy to make and the exposure unit is CHEAP to build (Expensive to buy).

Has anyone tried the method Loveless used to use on his knives with the acid? I am thinking of following that method but electro-etching instead of using acid. Anyone tried this?

Ed, Don, Terry and Ray, you collectively have 8 cents worth of feedback here, what do you say?
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  #23  
Old 03-20-2001, 07:46 PM
Don Cowles
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I'm sticking with the electro-chemical etching, but I'd be delighted to find a more reasonable source for stencils. If you are willing to make them for others, I'm interested.

The acid etching Loveless used to use was the only thing available besides engraving and stamping, until this technology came along. I like one minute per knife instead of one hour per knife, thank you.


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  #24  
Old 03-20-2001, 08:07 PM
Bob Warner
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Don,
I'm not really interested in making them for others but can explain how to make the exposure unit if anyone is interested. The electronics were explained earlier, however I boought mine from Electro-chem-etch.

It took forever to figure out but it really is VERY simple (kinda made me mad it took so long to figure out after I did it).

You still need to buy the stencil material and developer from Marking methods or other source but you can make one of a kind stencils for a lot cheaper than you can buy them. I think they are 40-50 dollars each AFTER the design (ART) work charges. If you make them yourself they are only a couple of dollars each. If you have a lazer or inkjet printer, you can print your design and make a stencil in about 10 minutes.

Interested in the method? If so I will explain further.


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  #25  
Old 03-20-2001, 09:02 PM
MIKE KOLLER
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Explain away!!!I use a stamp now but many people want their knives personalized and I can't do it for them.
I just bought a set of engraving tools but have yet to learn to use them.So yes I am interested in what yoy have to tell us.
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  #26  
Old 03-20-2001, 10:03 PM
Bob Warner
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OK, can anyone tell me how to post a picture? I can draw up the exposure unit easier than explaining it. I hit the "Post an image" link on the left (just to try to figure it out) of the reply screen and I'm not sure what GREEK looks like but it sure looks Greek to me. Therefore, I will draw it up and explain it all but will need someone to assist in posting the picture. I will draw it all up tomorrow and will be ready to post as soon as someone tells me how or volunteers to post it for me.

Get ready, we're going to build an exposure unit and it will cost you less than $40 and maybe less than $10 depending on what you have around the shop. Buy some photo-resist (stencil material, NOT the blue paper stuff you type on, but the Green stuff the companies use to make your stencils for you) and off you go.
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  #27  
Old 03-20-2001, 11:20 PM
MIKE KOLLER
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Bob ,
If you will email it to me I'll post it.My address is in my profile.Just move your pointer to my name at left and click.
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  #28  
Old 03-21-2001, 05:19 AM
Bob Warner
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Thanks, Mike. I will draw it up today after work (at my other job) and send it to you this evening as early as I can.
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  #29  
Old 03-21-2001, 10:19 AM
CKDadmin
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Bob,

This is an excellent discourse. In fact, I'd like to grab your sections of this thread and copy them over to a new locked version where the guy's could reference this for future need, if that would be OK with you?

Mike, forward the image to me and I'll let the CKD server handle the storage if you want. We have room ...


Alex
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  #30  
Old 03-21-2001, 02:17 PM
Bob Warner
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Not a problem with me. I just have one question. What is the best format for this? I created a picture of the Exposure unit and I also created an explanation of how it works. Should I make one a text document and the other a JPG?
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