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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Working Black Palm
I vaguely remember someone saying something about how to work this stuff, or what to watch out for. But that was back in the days before the great forum crash.... I am going to put some new slabs on a little drop point hunter which I acquired. I finally took the plunge and punched out the brass pins and cracked the rough ebony slabs so they popped off with no trouble! The black palm looks like it will suit the knife and set off the silver fittings I am working on. So, anything to watch out for with palm and any tips on finishing it? It isn't stabilised and isn't going to be Roger |
#2
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Roger, My experience is limited. Watch for spliting at the edges of a cross cut. I work slowly with a Japanese pull saw in a miter box. If you force it you will get splitting. Sands "OK" with the grain but I always have some texture - that is seems difficult if not impossible to get a very smooth surface. However, the end grain sands and polishes very nicely giving a hard smooth surface that shows the vascular tissue bundles. To seal end grain I have used superglue which I then sand so that it is not detectable as such (no "plastic" look left). Good luck, John |
#3
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I'd cut very slowly with a freshly-sharpened dovetail saw (filed for crosscut, not rip). I have two, one with 20tpi, and one with 15 tpi. Scribe your lines and cut 3/64th's oversize, sand to the line with 220 or 320 grit on a stationary disc sander. If your bolsters aren't at 90?, you can adjust the sander's table to whatever setting you need to with a good quality protractor. I have a Starrett protractor for my combination square that is dead-on. If you want to use epoxy or cyanocrylic for sealing end grain, apply first before sanding. If you need to buy a good quality dovetail saw, try Woodcraft Supply, Parkersburg, WVA. They carry some made in England, and the Lie-Nielsen ones made in the USA. Leon Jester LJ WoodWorks Roanoke, VA |
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