Let's Talk Edges

Whoa Alex, you're gonna make me have to raise my prices.....

Thanks buddy. It's comes from 20 years of grinding upside-down.

Jerry, nope cost of a grinder isn't the issue, living in an apartment is. I will never have a grinder as long as I live where I am. So what do your customers do when they want to sharpen a knife and don't have access to a grinder? That's really my question. I know some makers will ask you how you will sharpen their knife and make the edge accordingly. Of course now you may compromise that high performance edge. So what's a knife junkie to do?

For starters, a convex edge lasts a very long time. (ref. Jonesy's post on the Ontario) It can be touched up pretty easily with a ceramic stick, but if it needs major work, you just set up your Sharpmaker and lay in a bevel like the convex edge wasn't there. You still get some benefits, since the shoulders of the convex edge are above your bevel and will still reduce drag through a cut. The last option is to keep your knifemaker alive until you're ready to retire the knife.

I'll try to remember that last one

I have many years to get under my belt before I will even come close to having the experience that Jerry and a few of the other folks that post here. I am still living and learning along this journey we call knifemaking. The subject of this thread is one of the most profound subjects that is ever touched on and can make or break a good blade.

I suppose some folks are confused sometimes when it is stated that it is a convex, Moran or appleseed edge. Simply stated, although it may not be apparent to the naked eye, the edge is somewhat rounded, or convexed on both sides. It looks like an "appleseed". An exagerated example is an axe. Axes don't dull too quickly. Now remember, on a knife, only the edge is convexed, not the grind (although it could be if the maker so desires).

Quite a few folks, just as stated above, are concerned that it can not be sharpened by the owner. There is nothing farther from the truth! I was of this opinion until I was shown otherwise by one of the instructors at the Bladesmith school in Old Washington. He took a dull convexed edge blade and hit it just a few times on a stone and it was ready for use again. I like a crock stick or even a Spyderco sharpener for this but it is fairly simple to do. Now granted, if the edge is really buggered up, this will not hold true, but that is basically with any edge that has been abused. What I was told at the time is that the owner needs to be able to at least touch up or sharpen his blade in the field. I have to agree. That was a valuable lesson and changed my way of thinking as far as edges are concerned.

Craig

i tried this a couple days ago. Went to .035" thick edge, put a reg bevel on with a 120 3M 977, then slack belted with the 120, then a 3m 707 220 grit, then went to an A30 trizact, then strop. wow. incredible!!! I love this!

Take it down to a Trizact 16 or 6 and it will get even better, plus more durable. The smoother you make that edge, the more difficult it is for bad things to chip it (especially the micro-chips you can't see but which are a major component of dulling, IMO).

Jerry,
Today I took a machete down to A6 Trizact on a loose belt then removed what remained of the wire edge. The only three words that come to mind are:

Lord have mercy!!!

Ronco would be proud of this one...it slices, it dices, it chops...

The darn thing just works!

Craig

Neat, huh?

Thanks to all for the great info and different techniques. This is what makes this a great forum.
KEN (WWJD)